Well, I've done the Autoglym hood cleaner and waterproofer and that's been a huge success - water beading on top beautifully now.
Given it a good old wash. Then I thought ok I'll polish it (again, with Autoglym).
But I CANNOT get the crud off the lower parts of the doors and the very front of the car. Some of the much smaller little bits of dirt/grease/tar - god knows what it is - the little bits will come off with super huge significant rubbing using the polish. However, the larger blobs (we're talking 1.5-2mm in size). They are so strongly adhered to the door, the polish just will not bring them off.
What do you think it is?? And what's the best thing to get it off?!
Also, there are a lot of scratches (they were there when I bought it, honest gov!!) - they're very light but I wondered whether first using whatever you guys recommend to get rid of my little crud spots, then a t-cut product used to buff away some of the scratches, and then do the polishing. What do you think?
I'd like to hope (vainly, probably....) that if i do this and apply polish, maybe the little cling-on crud spots won't be able to adhere so easily in the future....??
Last edited by halesowenmum; Jul 12th, 2014 at 01:37 PM.
Hi, Do you have any pictures of this 'crud' I would imagine that its either tar or iron fall out. Get yourself some tardis tar remover and some iron out and a clay bar. Use the tar remover first, then the Iron out (iron fallout remover) and then clay bar the panel(s). You can also now get clay mitts, not tried one myself but apparently easier to use than a clay bar.
This prep work should remove all containments from the paint, once you've done this apply your polish of choice and a wax / sealant on top.
Hi. I would take a piccie but as it's a black car I just seem to get a reflection - it's certainly not mud and when you try and rub it off with the polish it eventually seems to start to break down and smear for a bit till it's gone. But the slightly larger blobs I just can't get off no matter how much elbow grease I put in. I will definitely have a look at what you suggest so thanks very much for pointing me in the right direction.
I must say I was gutted having finished doing my roof the other day to walk into the kitchen after to find, because I'd had to swap to another spray insert as the one that comes with the autoglym stops working after a bit, that having swapped the autoglym spray insert back onto the bottle again, I obviously hadn't done it quite firmly enough, the bottle had fallen over and 80% of the fluid had leaked out and disappeared off under my kitchen cupboards. I've just about got enough left for a repeat coating prior to the winter but I feel sure had this not happened that I would have got a second and a third treatment out of this bottle so was quite cheesed off about that!!!
I shall go off and see where I can get the products you recommend. Thank you.
Hi, There are plenty of places out there that sells these detailing products (elite car care, polished bliss and i4detailing to name a few), if you don't want to splash out on everything mentioned go for the clay bar or clay mitt first, that will remove contaminants, the other products mentioned will just make this claying process easier.
As for a sealant check out sonax brilliant shine detailer, spray on wipe off and gives amazing protection and water beading.
Hope the autoglym stuff didn't make too much mess!
If when you have done what everyone else has suggested, you find that you have actually got chips and scratches in the paint, then I'd recommend a CHIPEX paint chip restoration kit. This is so much better than the paint stick type touch-up pens and the colour can be perfectly matched to your paint by sending them the paint code off your car.
It's fairly easy to use provided you don't get over eager and try and do loads of chips on the same panel at once. Basically you put the paint on, let it dry for about 5-10 minutes (depending on air temperature) and then remove all the excess paint with a solvent/special paint removal cloth and foam block. Then you polish with their special polish and hey presto, your chip has disappeared!
Only problem that I found with a black MINI is that it's difficult to find the chips once you have applied the paint, so worth marking where they are with a bit of masking tape!
Hope when you have cleaned-up the doors you don't discover too much 'gravel rash'.
Thank you everyone for all the tips, much appreciated. Haven't has chance to wash it again but will update when I do. And although roof beading beautifully the colour of the roof isn't at all uniform - some parts look fairly blanch whilst others are lighter. Overall it just looks really patchy and even with the very intensive scrubbing session still not all of the green has gone.
What product are you using to clean the fabric? When its clean I would look to adding a sealant on top something from the '303' range of products. A couple of layers of sealant might level out the colour too.
My daughter and I had a considerable scrubbing session with the Autoglym hood cleaner and got it all foamy and scrubbed like our lives depended on it! I was told by several people it was really good but having scrubbed until it appeared that all the green had gone and rinsed thoroughly we applied the water repelling spray and it appears that enough is on there as the water is beading really well now. It just doesn't look nice and black as I would have expected it to do - I had thought it would look fairly even but it's ever so patchy (I'll maybe try and get a piccy of it if I can). I'm dead miffed if I've got to now try yet another expensive product though - I think I might cry!
This car is costing me a merry fortune just keeping it right and on the road just on mechanical issues never mind trying to titivate it and make it look nice. Bloomin' thing.
It can get quite expensive just keeping the things clean. I've just spent a small sum on leather cleaner and conditioner. Depending on the type of fabric you can get a product that will recolour the hood. I've not had any experience of these though.
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