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Old Dec 12th, 2003, 11:47 PM   #1
swamos
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DIY How to remove and replace front rotors

Just went for a drive this morning, and I am getting pulsating through the pedal under heavy breaking. This usually means that the rotors have become out of round, so they need machineing.

So, my question is how do you remove the front rotors? The site miniguide.org has some excellent instructions on removing and repainting calipers and discs. It is just a little vague on the removing the rotor bit.

I have replaced pads before, and I didn't see the rotors falling off on my foot like they do on some cars. Would I be right in saying that once the caliper is removed, they need a little help with a rubber mallot?? Ie, a little knock off?

Thanks
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Old Dec 16th, 2003, 01:12 PM   #2 (permalink)
Polmear
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Unless there is a threaded bolt holding the rotor to the hub, a small knock or two with the rubber mallet should drop them quickly onto your toes
Haven't looked at mine, but most rotors are the same-the only thing holding them on is the wheel and lugs.

BTW machining rotors can induce problems that didn't exist before turning. You should also replace your pads if you do turn the rotors.
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Old Dec 16th, 2003, 01:52 PM   #3 (permalink)
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There is a more detailed guide on northamericanmotoring.com here . As far as I'm aware there is one screw holding the rotor in place but this will be obvious when the wheel is removed.

After that bang that baby with your best rubber mallet

It was acceptable in the 80's
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Old Dec 16th, 2003, 10:10 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Thanks guys

Tha pads have only done 15k (10k miles), so do you think they should be ok. They look near new. I think they are what warped the disk in the first place when they got hot while running in
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Old Dec 16th, 2003, 10:26 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by swamos
Thanks guys

Tha pads have only done 15k (10k miles), so do you think they should be ok. They look near new. I think they are what warped the disk in the first place when they got hot while running in

Never use old pads on new or freshly turned rotors.
Get new pads.
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Old Dec 16th, 2003, 10:33 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by obehave
Never use old pads on new or freshly turned rotors.
Get new pads.

Do you understand my problem, though?? I'm 90% sure that the other pads were what caused the problem in the first place, so if I get new pads, then I'm in trouble again??
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Old Dec 17th, 2003, 12:22 PM   #7 (permalink)
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If the old pads have taken on any of the runout characteristics of the warped rotors, they can easily transfer those back and set your fresh rotors out of round. Viscious cycle, easily broken with new pads.
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Old Dec 17th, 2003, 12:43 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by swamos
Do you understand my problem, though?? I'm 90% sure that the other pads were what caused the problem in the first place, so if I get new pads, then I'm in trouble again??

Sorry, I didn't really do a good job there. Like polmear said as well. Pads and rotors need to be done together. All new at the same time. Inaccuracies in either part of the set can transfer to the other. Pretty much ruining them.

Here's one of the best articles I've read on how to bed in new brakes. Just thought I'd toss that in
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Old Dec 17th, 2003, 05:14 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by obehave
Sorry, I didn't really do a good job there. Like polmear said as well. Pads and rotors need to be done together. All new at the same time. Inaccuracies in either part of the set can transfer to the other. Pretty much ruining them.

Here's one of the best articles I've read on how to bed in new brakes. Just thought I'd toss that in

That's a good spiel. Thanks It's actually very similar to the story that comes with the EBC brake pads. I've got a feeling that I failed on the 5th step, due to the area that I had to do it in. I'll see how I go with it guys. Machining is quite cheap, so I may give that a go. If all goes bad, then I'll just have to buy new rotors and pads

I'll let you know how successfull I am.
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