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| | #21 |
| MINI2 Master Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Yorkshire Local Time: 10:33 AM
Posts: 2,368
Offline | Many thanks, spoke with my father who knows the score with the sensor as he's changed the pads many a time on his 3 series BMW, shouldnt be a prob now. ![]() |
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| | #22 (permalink) |
| MINI2 Newbie | Sensor is around £7, you just need one for the rear right and one for the front left. It is quite difficult to access the connector on the rear one although not impossible even with no experience like I was, I will suggest you to proceed to the replacement step by step by removing slowly the old one from its connector side and plugging the new one in place: remove a bit the old, attach in place the new, remove a bit the old, ...etc until you reach the calliper. Once completly reconnected, you will noticed that the sensor light will still be flashing on your dashboard, to reset it you'll have to press the runflat reset button (near handbrake)during 20s with the key on pos 1 or 2 (I don't quite remember that part but I found this tip within this forum) I hope it helps. ![]() ...Sushi |
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| | #23 (permalink) |
| MINI2 Master Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Yorkshire Local Time: 10:33 AM
Posts: 2,368
Offline | front pads and sensor changed no problem ![]() Only problem is the light doesnt want to go out, have checked the rears and there loads left on them (incase sensor on rear had activated) was all pretty straight forward. Tried to reset as advised above but doesnt make any difference.....light stays on....any ideas? ![]() ![]() |
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| | #24 (permalink) |
| MINI2 Newbie | I did exactly that: http://www.mini2.com/forum/showthread.php?t=47434 and it worked perfectly well at my first try. You said you've replaced the sensor did you? Then I suppose it is with a new one because once the light comes out you can't use the sensor that triggered it anymore. Hope it helps. Good luck. ![]() ...Sushi |
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| | #25 (permalink) |
| MINI2 Sr. & c3 President Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Los Angeles, CA Local Time: 02:33 AM
Posts: 533
Offline | I have yet to change my own pads, but plan to do so soon. So is that correct that in order to change the pads, you need to remove the calipers from the rotor?? What holds the calipers in place (curious what tool/size I will need). Thanks! Richard |
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| | #26 (permalink) |
| MINI2 Regular Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Near NYC Local Time: 09:33 AM
Posts: 348
Offline | I'm very impressed with this thread! There is no DIY topic on this, I wish you guys would write one up, with Sushi and Paulmon's pics etc. Then you'd forever be in the MIN2 Hall of Honor! BRG/W MC -- Motoring since Oct 7 of 2002 |
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| | #27 (permalink) |
| 1 + 2 = 3 Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Northern Ireland Local Time: 10:33 AM
Posts: 105
Offline | Great! changed my front pads ages ago with no probs, thought it was goina be the same with the rears! u's have got me worried now! im buying my self some special edition cross slotted + drilled rotors and green stuff pads for fronts and rears of www.minimaniauk.com. thought this was going to be a simple install job but aperently not with the rears! will i get the job jon with basic tools if i use my anititive? or will i NEED to get one of those brake piston wind back tools ? any help/points will be appreciated! HoG |
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| | #28 (permalink) |
| MINI2 Newbie | Right, I apology, I didn’t do the page, I’ve got the pictures and all, but I feel a bit lazy these days. Here are a couple of things to know from my little experience. 1) Buy the correct windback tool from BMW or it is going to be pain in the ****. I used a box with lots adapter and it was hard, had to tighten the tool with a spanner every half turn. Standard halfords tool didn’t work. If your tool doesn’t fit, know that you can always put back the calliper and the wheel and go buy another one (I did that!!!). Always push back the piston to its maximum and be careful with the rubber seal!!! 2) Get a proper jack and stands as you’ll have to go a bit under the car to unplug the sensor cable. See this page . Being dead crushed under a 1ton car is not funny, and I decline all responsibilities for people who wants to try that. 3) Get a proper torque wrench, I used a big 1/2 at £15 with a 3/4 adapter, it worked really well for both the wheel and the calliper. Torque values are (30NM~ 22 ftlb~264 inlb) for the calliper bolts and (100NM~ 73.7 ft-lb ) for the wheel, taken from this page (it's not a Mini but I'm sure everybody will agree with these values). Also the hex driver I used to remove the calliper looked the same. Never use the torque wrench to unscrew. 4) Replace the old sensor step by step from the plug inside the wing (follow the sensor cable to locate it) to the pad. Then you‘ll have to thanks cwwhk for the following tip: “To reset the warning light, just turn key to the iginition on position without starting the engine, then press the tire pressure set button (under the handbrake) for about 30 seconds. Voila, light goes off.” 5) Clean up the inside of the wheels while they are off the car. Then the calliper with a clean dry tissue (and brake cleaning product if you have). 6) Get the plastilube from BMW to put on the back side of the pads, in order to prevent squeaksss. (I got it for free while I bought the pads). Don't put it the wrong side or your car won't brake anynore! 7) Putting back in place the caliper is pain in the ****, be patient. the right was easy then I had to use all my zen on the left 8) Once the job completed, be very careful, the handbrake won't work until you'll press the brake pedal a couple of times. Drive the car slowly and try the brakes a couple of time to be sure everything is fine. 9) I'll do it again, the only thing that you will miss the first time you try is the experience you are going to acquire while doing it! Hope it helps. NB: I sold my Mini and bought an Impreza, it seems changing pads are fairly easier on this car! ![]() ...Sushi |
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| | #29 (permalink) |
| Best Personal Regards Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Ile de Vaux, France Local Time: 10:33 AM
Posts: 2,037
Offline | Any parts store will sell you a universal tool that fits on the end of a 3/8 drive extension. Of course if you have a pair of needle nosed pliers, they do the trick just as well. Turn and press, turn and press.....make sure you go the correct way..... |
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| | #31 (permalink) |
| Best Personal Regards Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Ile de Vaux, France Local Time: 10:33 AM
Posts: 2,037
Offline | The fact that they don't stock it should not mean they can´t order it for you....be prepared to pay a mint....like I said, a pair of needle nosed pliers will do it, it is just a matter of getting a piece of steel into two holes in the piston and turning it. Any of the other aftermarket solutions will work just as well. |
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| | #32 (permalink) |
| Best Personal Regards Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Ile de Vaux, France Local Time: 10:33 AM
Posts: 2,037
Offline | The fact that they don't stock it should not mean they can´t order it for you....be prepared to pay a mint....like I said, a pair of needle nosed pliers will do it, it is just a matter of getting a piece of steel into two holes in the piston and turning it. Any of the other aftermarket solutions will work just as well. PS MINI Tool No. is 346300 |
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| | #33 (permalink) |
| MINI2 Newbie Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: London Local Time: 09:33 AM
Posts: 38
Offline | Hi Dragging this thread up again as it's now time to do my rear pads! Will this tool fit? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SEALEY-Disc-Br...QQcmdZViewItem Alternatively, if anyone can recommend a tool that will definitely work, but which won't cost £60, please do so. If I'm to pay that much for a tool, I may as well just get a local garage to do the job ![]() This looks great http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...tegory= 10374 nice price! But it's long gone. Thanks Stu |
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| | #34 (permalink) |
| MINI2 Newbie | It looks exactly the same as the one I got from Halfraud. It didt't fit . I could bring it back and get a refund, not sure you can do the same with ebay .You'd better go for the complete box with all the adapters. I got mine for £30 at a kitcar show. It still not a perfect fit but it did the job. ...Sushi |
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| | #36 (permalink) |
| MINI2 Master Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Malmesbury, Wilts Local Time: 10:33 AM
Posts: 1,779
Online | That tool won't do it as the Mini isn't listed. The big silver bit at the end needs to be replaced with a smaller black unit that fits the Mini. Use the wanted section someone near you may have something they can loan you. In my region (Wales and the West) there at least 2 people who own purpose made tools. I've read of other ways of doing this using long nosed pliers and g-clamps etc but nothing worked on my car except the proper tool that just took seconds. ![]() Some people are like a Slinky ........ not really good for anything, but you still can't help but smile when you shove them down the stairs |
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| | #37 (permalink) |
| MINI2 Newbie Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: London Local Time: 09:33 AM
Posts: 38
Offline | That did the trick! I just couldn't get the leverage required to push and turn the pistons back in with needle nose pliers. I dug out a G/C clamp and bingo! Brakes were done in just over an hour. Not bad for the first time, I thought! I had to be quite patient, as the G clamp would sometimes stop rotating the piston and would simply try to compress it. After removing the clamp and trying again a few times, I eventually got it to rotate the piston whilst pushing it back into its cylinder. Great tip! cheers Stu |
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| | #38 (permalink) |
| MINI2 Newbie Join Date: Mar 2008 Local Time: 05:33 AM
Posts: 1
Offline | Are you supposed to twist the piston clockwise as you clamp it? Counterclockwise? I imagine it's clockwise but I'd hate to be wrong and have my piston come too far out... No Norwegian flag option? |
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| | #39 (permalink) |
| MINI2 Sponsor Join Date: Mar 2006 Local Time: 10:33 AM
Posts: 1,023
Offline | BRAKE CALIPER REWIND ADAPTOR FOR ANY 3/8 DRIVE NOW £5.50 -for the budget minded AND REAR BRAKE CALIPER RETRACTION TOOL NEW BMW MINI NOW £19.99 - for the complete tool A |
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| | #40 (permalink) |
| Mini Youngster Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Northern Ireland Local Time: 10:33 AM
Posts: 1,821
Offline | I have changed all the pads before and today I changed the rear disks. For the front you can either shove them in if your car is fairly new or you can use a c clamp. I used a C clamp and it worked a treat although remember to have a bit of wood in between the rotor and the clamp. When pushing the rotor back in always remember to unscrew the brake fluid cap incase there is a build up of pressure. For the rears the best thing to use is the proper tool. The rear pistons have to go back and turn also so basically screwing it into place as it needs to wind the handbrake cable. http://littlemini.us/builder/img/brakepads/DSCN4824.jpg Thats the thing I used for the rear calipers. If you have the right tools it is a fairly easy job but for me I could not use anything else for the rear piston as it hadnt been touched in 7 years properly. If anyone has any questions at all on the brakes, brake lines or disks fire ahead as I am fairly good at this now. ![]() |
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