Thanks for the response, should I let the clutch up to biting point or just up in general?
I'm going to assume this is in reference to testing for clutch slippage. Best to go somewhere nice and flat with nothing in front of the car. Put the handbrake on. Start the car in neutral. With the handbrake on, throw the shifter into 3rd. Now, start letting up the clutch _slowly_. You'll feel the car start to "hunch" down. I'll be really surprised if you get to the full bite point as the clutch will start to engage a little before that. What you're looking for is basically as the clutch comes up, the rpms should start to drop and the car should kind of "jerk" a little and stall immediately.
If you notice that the car is "hunkering" down but not really stalling, or even worse, the engine is still running at the bite point and beyond, I'd have the dealership check for slippage as well because your clutch is probably done.
The other thing you can try is when driving uphill, put it into, say 3rd or 4th and try to give it wide open throttle to go up the hill in 3rd or 4th gear. When the engine is at about 2000rpms, hammer the accelerator and watch the tach rpms. If you get a spike in rpms but no acceleration, the clutch is probably slipping. It will kind of sound like a vrrrrrrrr then RRRRRRRRRR as the clutch slips. You can find some videos on Youtube with examples.
As a general bit of advice, for regular everyday driving, I recommend you get that clutch up to the bite point and then fully engaged as quick as possible. Riding the clutch on these cars quickly (very quickly!) wears down the clutch to the point where you have to replace it. Replacement is _very_ expensive as the bell housing is difficult to access. Count on a clutch replacement being anywhere from €1500 to €2000 depending on whether or not the dual mass flywheel needs replacing.