Possible problem with clutch - MINI Cooper Forum

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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old Jan 21st, 2013, 12:51 PM Thread Starter
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Possible problem with clutch

Hello everyone,

Just thought i would post this issue up. My girlfriend bought a 2008 cooper D last week its covered 46000 miles. I took it out for a drive last week and noticed that the biting point seemed rather high. Im not sure if the clutch is on the way out as it seems very tight, just rather odd that the biting point is so high.

Have any of you experienced this before?
Is the clutch in fact on its way out?
Are the clutches adjustable on the cooper D?

Many Thanks in advance
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old Jan 21st, 2013, 03:57 PM Thread Starter
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Grateful for any advice?
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old Jan 21st, 2013, 04:38 PM
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Originally Posted by da_ansa10 View Post
Grateful for any advice?
My experience of BMW MANUAL diesels are that they all have a high biting point. My wife had a Cooper 1.6 petrol until I took it off the road to turn it into a garage pony. She test drove a few BMW products but ended up having to have an Auto because she found that she couldn't get on with the bite point on a BMW diesel. So could it just be that? Or have you driven a lot of other BMW Diesels so are comparing it to them?
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old Jan 21st, 2013, 05:23 PM Thread Starter
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I've had BMW 118d as a courtesy car but don't remember the clutch so high. It was a while ago though so I may be wrong.

The clutch doesn't seem to be slipping in the mini, just very high
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old Jan 21st, 2013, 08:51 PM
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Originally Posted by da_ansa10 View Post
I've had BMW 118d as a courtesy car but don't remember the clutch so high. It was a while ago though so I may be wrong.

The clutch doesn't seem to be slipping in the mini, just very high
So the 118d clutch is pretty high. Where are you located? Which dealer did you buy from?
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old Jan 22nd, 2013, 05:49 AM
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High bite point is normal.
Clutches are not adjustable, they are self-adjusting.
There are some checks you can do for clutch slippage, like setting the handbrake and putting it in 3rd and letting the clutch up. The car should stall immediately. If the rpms go up, it's slipping.

Happy to answer any other questions...
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old Jan 22nd, 2013, 07:14 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by MiniDeLux View Post
High bite point is normal.
Clutches are not adjustable, they are self-adjusting.
There are some checks you can do for clutch slippage, like setting the handbrake and putting it in 3rd and letting the clutch up. The car should stall immediately. If the rpms go up, it's slipping.

Happy to answer any other questions...
Thanks for the response, should I let the clutch up to biting point or just up in general?
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old Jan 22nd, 2013, 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by da_ansa10 View Post
Thanks for the response, should I let the clutch up to biting point or just up in general?
I'm going to assume this is in reference to testing for clutch slippage. Best to go somewhere nice and flat with nothing in front of the car. Put the handbrake on. Start the car in neutral. With the handbrake on, throw the shifter into 3rd. Now, start letting up the clutch _slowly_. You'll feel the car start to "hunch" down. I'll be really surprised if you get to the full bite point as the clutch will start to engage a little before that. What you're looking for is basically as the clutch comes up, the rpms should start to drop and the car should kind of "jerk" a little and stall immediately.

If you notice that the car is "hunkering" down but not really stalling, or even worse, the engine is still running at the bite point and beyond, I'd have the dealership check for slippage as well because your clutch is probably done.

The other thing you can try is when driving uphill, put it into, say 3rd or 4th and try to give it wide open throttle to go up the hill in 3rd or 4th gear. When the engine is at about 2000rpms, hammer the accelerator and watch the tach rpms. If you get a spike in rpms but no acceleration, the clutch is probably slipping. It will kind of sound like a vrrrrrrrr then RRRRRRRRRR as the clutch slips. You can find some videos on Youtube with examples.

As a general bit of advice, for regular everyday driving, I recommend you get that clutch up to the bite point and then fully engaged as quick as possible. Riding the clutch on these cars quickly (very quickly!) wears down the clutch to the point where you have to replace it. Replacement is _very_ expensive as the bell housing is difficult to access. Count on a clutch replacement being anywhere from 1500 to 2000 depending on whether or not the dual mass flywheel needs replacing.
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