well i just found this out
all fixed turned out to be a small crack in the intake manifold and already had a spare and a £6.52 clip from ford for the silver pipe that comes off intake manifold to a cooler at rear of engine,
so when the car rolled it must of hit the intake slightly and popped the clip off
its made a massive difference to the car, so i would really look into air leak, has the issue got worse as i assume if air and the split/hole gets bigger then obv the issue will worsen ???
problem i found is only hear the hiss under load so at stand still revving couldnt hear it, try and get it on a rolling road and listen then
Can't say my problem has gotten worse. The turbo was leaking black soot and they swapped it for a new one (not a reconditioned unit). Ever since the swap, the car has been really weak in 3rd, 4th, 5th and 6th gear (could accelerate up hills in 6th before, now it just barely maintains speed and doesn't accelerate with the pedal flat to the floor). Pulls reasonably in 1st and 2nd I would say.
Just feels really flat overall. No error codes, idles fine, mileage is unaffected. I've tightened all the clamping for the induction piping and can't hear any leaks either at idle or if I have someone give it revs. It's been like this for about 2 years with no real change. Quite frustrating, really.
Think I'll pull and clean the EGR and the MAP sensor. Unplugging the MAF (not MAP) sensor produces no change. Would also like to flush out the intercooler, but seems a bit awkward to access.
you couldn't hear any leak standing in front of engine while being revved but under load as you was driving, i even jacked it up and went through gears couldn't hear it. was only while road wheels had weight n driving.
this seemed ok in low gears and was only because my son said should be faster that i thought issue.
mine showed up codes as prev post.
really does sound like air/leak issue
see if local garage has a rolling road or an mot centre with some rollers
Am confident that the turbo is okay. It's original OEM direct from Garrett and not a reconditioned unit. It spools up (can hear it), there is no free play in the shaft. At idle, the variable vane actuator arm is pulled down into the vacuum pot, so it appears to be working - full throttle in 2nd gear puts me back into the seat. Checked the thread count on the actuator against your photo and the setting seems correct (I know they are bench calibrated before being shipped).
It's looking more and more that it's one of two things:
2. Charge air piping related
The EGR system on these cars is a little complicated. The boost pressure sensor is used to drive the VNT actuator demand, and the mass airflow sensor controls the EGR valve actuator demand. However, the system is not a closed loop and is operated using a mapping based on engine speed, fuelling, VNT and EGR valve duty cycles. Bit of a bugger to troubleshoot.
Thinking that the EGR is sitting open due to soot build-up. If acceleration is related to fresh air intake and efficient fuel burn, if the EGR is leaking under heavy acceleration it will feel like a lag in engine torque production.
Going to first try cleaning the boost pressure sensor, then I'll remove and clean the EGR and see what happens. Have noticed a slight buzzing noise coming from the EGR valve area so the EGR could be on it's way out. Happens if I blip the throttle. RPMs go up as then as they start to fall I hear a distinct "bzzzzzzzzzz" noise for about 1 second.
Have been ignoring it because I think the EGR has a copy position sensor, but have discovered that it might only throw a code if the deviation between the position and copy sensor exceeds 15%.
Will give it a go with the EGR cleaning and see what happens.
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