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  #1 (permalink)  
Old Feb 13th, 2014, 06:47 PM
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Engine swap

Hello,

Recently purchased a near perfect condition 57 reg mini cooper D, only thing was it was a non starter due to doing 230k miles as an instructors car.

Bought another 57 reg mini cooper D 77k miles that had been rolled, but my Dad drove it off the forecourt and onto the back of his flatbed.

My Dad pulled off the swap and drove it around for three weeks to make sure it was fine before I had it - He'd get warning lights but nothing that stuck so he didn't see anything as immediately wrong - teething problems.

I drove the car and found it seriously lacked poke, having researched the cars I know they should be nippy cars. 0-60 in 10 secs is the touted benchmark we were getting 0-40 in the same time. My Dad didn't realise anything was wrong because the car drove absolutely lovely speed aside, no smoke, rattles or anything other than a bit of a hissing sound on closer inspection.

Dad drove it for 3 weeks without being able to get a warning light to stick long enough to hook the diagnostic machine up so he passed it to me to drive it regularly until we did. I had it for half an hour and hey presto lights! We hooked it up and got this reading:



Dad cleared the codes off the car and cleaned the mass sensors, used the car with no faults showing up but the car drove really bad/slow (according to my dad).

He then got this warning code



And found that the car will no longer go over 3000 revs.
We've read that it could be the turbo actuator causing the problems but that is moving freely, we've noticed that the first (left) injector (looking at the car head on) has fluid around the base. The Mass sensor has now been changed, but the car performs the same.

Any ideas on what it is? Are there several problems? Are the injectors coded specifically to one ECU. Is this several problems as shown on the diagnostic machine or is one problem causing all of them to flag up. Is it the 'leaky' (?) injector?

We have all the spares from the donor car and would like to leave BMW garages as a last resort.

Thanks in advance.
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Old Feb 13th, 2014, 09:18 PM
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Particle filter is clogged. Needs to burn off the diesel soot in a process called regeneration. You need to make sure there's diesel fuel additive (eolys) in the reservoir tank. If the soot load of the particle filter is too high, the regeneration may have to be forced (requires dealer intervention as you need the proper equipment).

The leaky injector needs to be fixed right away or you'll end up with contamination in the oil sump which will lead to oil sludge build up. If the sludge builds up it will block the turbo oil feed line which is filtered by a gauze in the bottom of the oil pan. If the gauze gets blocked, it'll starve the turbo of oil and destroy the bearing which is lubricated with oil from the sump.

Changing the MAF won't do anything, the MAF is not the problem. I highly doubt the actuator arm is the problem.

Does the fluid near the injector smell like diesel fuel? Can you provide a picture?

While you're at it, I have a small request Can you take a picture of the actuator arm from an angle that I can see how many threads are visible above the vacuum pot? Would appreciate is as I'm trying to diagnose a small issue on my Cooper D as well.

Thanks in advance, hope that info is somehow helpful. Let me know if you have further questions, happy to help.
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Old Feb 13th, 2014, 11:58 PM
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[quote=MiniDeLux;3911625]Particle filter is clogged. Needs to burn off the diesel soot in a process called regeneration. You need to make sure there's diesel fuel additive (eolys) in the reservoir tank. If the soot load of the particle filter is too high, the regeneration may have to be forced (requires dealer intervention as you need the proper equipment).

cheers for the reply

you mention .... diesel fuel additive (eolys) in the reservoir tank

is this another tank i dont know about???

will check smell of fluid tomo

i have a spare turbo off donor car so will take clear pic tomo and post

cheers for your help
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Old Feb 14th, 2014, 08:21 AM
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Check the thread here for refilling the eolys fluid:

http://www.mini2.com/forum/mini-coop...lys-176-a.html

When the particle filter soot load gets too high, a small amount of the additive is injected into the fuel line which helps to lower the temperature at which the soot collected in the DPF can burn off. If you don't have any fluid in the reservoir, the soot can't be burned off. If the soot load is too high, it will be detected by the pressure differential sensor across the DPF (hence your error code). The other p-codes I think are related to the DPF issue.

Thanks in advance for the photo of the turbo!


[quote=Green-chameleon;3911737]
Quote: Originally Posted by MiniDeLux (original)
Particle filter is clogged. Needs to burn off the diesel soot in a process called regeneration. You need to make sure there's diesel fuel additive (eolys) in the reservoir tank. If the soot load of the particle filter is too high, the regeneration may have to be forced (requires dealer intervention as you need the proper equipment).

cheers for the reply

you mention .... diesel fuel additive (eolys) in the reservoir tank

is this another tank i dont know about???

will check smell of fluid tomo

i have a spare turbo off donor car so will take clear pic tomo and post

cheers for your help

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Old Feb 14th, 2014, 03:27 PM
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Are the injectors coded or can I just replace them with the spare injectors?

Also, here's the photo you wanted, hope it helps.
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Old Feb 14th, 2014, 04:07 PM
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just checked the tank that was on the donor car and its empty so going to assume that the donor car was being run with this empty and the dpf was showing errors then so transferring complete engine from this car just transferred the issue, will check the tank on my car asap n see if thats empty

cheers
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Old Feb 14th, 2014, 08:43 PM
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just spoke to original owner of my car the one that had covered the 230,000 miles and have found out that the car has never had the eolys changed or topped up and the warning was displayed for ages but as didnt effect performance he wasnt worried

could this issue carry on from one engine to another???

cheers
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Old Feb 15th, 2014, 02:14 PM
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Hmm, not sure about the injectors. I suspect they might be, but I cannot confirm that. I do know that they are rather tricky to get out and can take a lot of effort to remove them. Don't have any actual experience with this myself though.

Thanks a tonne for the photo. Exactly what I wanted and couldn't have done better myself.

Quote: Originally Posted by Green-chameleon (original)
Are the injectors coded or can I just replace them with the spare injectors?

Also, here's the photo you wanted, hope it helps.

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Old Feb 15th, 2014, 02:17 PM
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Did you transfer the DME with the engine? Likely the error code is active in the transferred engine and just continues.

I'm assuming you transferred the DPF from the old engine, so it's likely loaded with soot beyond the threshold. If the eolys tank is full and you've tried clearing the code, you probably have to force a regeneration.

Alternatively, I know some of the Peugeot guys simply pull the DPF, open it out and flush it with water to clean it. Allowing it to dry and reinstalling seems to work. Bit of a messy job. I would weigh that approach against the cost of getting a dealership to force a regeneration on the filter.

There's a how-to for the cleaning process here:

http://www.peugeotforums.com/forums/...n-guide-18052/
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Old Feb 15th, 2014, 06:38 PM
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the dpf is the one that was on the 72000 mile engine so has only covered this miles, the ecu and all other control units are the original ones on the 230000 mile car.

the eolys bag on the rolled car (my new engine)the 72000 miles was empty

the buggered engine was showing the dpf fault for some time i have jjust found out, tried contacting the owner of the rolled donor car to see if he could shed light but hasn't replied to my letter.

i think i will check the eloys bag on the the car and see if empty as last owner unaware of it so chances are its empty.

can this additive be purchased from local spares shops or it it net/ dealer part???

i think i will do the clean on my spare dpf that had coverered the 2300000 miles and see if can get that clean then if once injjector changed and hopefully clean is done will work if not will swap dpf and see if that works
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Old Feb 18th, 2014, 08:42 PM
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Really seems like it's related to the DPF issue - either the soot loading or the eolys fluid. Let me know how you make out with it. Happy to help more if the DPF isn't the solution.

Also, just by eyeballing it, is the number of threads showing (the ones you so kindly took the photo of) on each turbo the same? Just curious.

Thx
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Old Feb 18th, 2014, 11:58 PM
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will have a look on the turbo fitted to see if can get a good pic if not will try in count threads.

think i found the issue the plastic intake manifold has a small crack in it but as it was on the bottom of it couldn't see and it was forcing small amount dirty fluid around the injjector so made look like an injector issue aswel, ive ordered the pat fluid and will be doing a dpf clean and jjust waiting to collect myy spare manifold the weekend so hopefully that will fix

cheers
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Old Feb 19th, 2014, 09:05 AM
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Glad you've possibly located the issue. Sounds like it will be fairly straightforward to fix, but a bit of work nonetheless.

Very grateful for your help on the threads. Had the turbo in my Clubman replaced about 2 years ago and have been suffering from some power loss. Car drives fine, no warning lights, just down on power.

Have checked over everything and finally concluded it could be related to the length of the actuator arm which can be adjusted by the thumbscrew you see in the photo. I've got about 7 threads showing but have no benchmark comparison to make. Have seen on some Peugeot forums (the diesel engine in the Mini is a PSA group engine) that people have had success in adjusting the actuator so I'm hoping you tell me the 2nd turbo has the same number of threads showing (i.e. about 5) as the first. Apparently small adjustments to the length of the arm can make a significant difference to performance.



Quote: Originally Posted by Green-chameleon (original)
will have a look on the turbo fitted to see if can get a good pic if not will try in count threads.

think i found the issue the plastic intake manifold has a small crack in it but as it was on the bottom of it couldn't see and it was forcing small amount dirty fluid around the injjector so made look like an injector issue aswel, ive ordered the pat fluid and will be doing a dpf clean and jjust waiting to collect myy spare manifold the weekend so hopefully that will fix

cheers

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Old Feb 19th, 2014, 10:56 PM
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sorry never got back till after dark today so couldnt look but will have a look in post tomorrow

Quote: Originally Posted by MiniDeLux (original)
Glad you've possibly located the issue. Sounds like it will be fairly straightforward to fix, but a bit of work nonetheless.

Very grateful for your help on the threads. Had the turbo in my Clubman replaced about 2 years ago and have been suffering from some power loss. Car drives fine, no warning lights, just down on power.

Have checked over everything and finally concluded it could be related to the length of the actuator arm which can be adjusted by the thumbscrew you see in the photo. I've got about 7 threads showing but have no benchmark comparison to make. Have seen on some Peugeot forums (the diesel engine in the Mini is a PSA group engine) that people have had success in adjusting the actuator so I'm hoping you tell me the 2nd turbo has the same number of threads showing (i.e. about 5) as the first. Apparently small adjustments to the length of the arm can make a significant difference to performance.

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Old Feb 20th, 2014, 11:38 PM
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Hi,

This is a pic of the turbo on the car, sorry it's not the best pic.

By the looks of it it's the same amount.
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