[brg mini cooper]

hi all
i was just wondering if anyond had rebuilt there own midaland gearbox and where internal parts where avalible from also has anyone got or know where to get a exploded diagram or manual for the gearbox cheers

[Mr. Fixit]

Hi. I have just finished rebuilding and fitting a midland gearbox to my sons 04 plate mini 1. The rebuild is straightforward and the £170 worth of bearings and seals were definitely cheap compared to the £2300 quoted by the BMW main dealer for fitting an exchange unit. Surprisingly, the old bearings etc. were in good nick. The problem was that the input shaft had excessive end float due to the outboard bearing spinning in it's bore and wearing the retaing clip. With hindsight, it would have been an easy and cheap repair just to replace the clip. This could be done without even removing the gearbox, as the clip and fifth gearset is accessible simply by removing the end cover of the gearbox with the plastic wheelarch removed.(Definitely worth a try as a first step!) I suspect that many of the faulty Midland boxes could be effectively be repaired like this provided that they are tackled as soon as the symptoms start, but I bet that BMW won't admit to that. I used a Rover R65 gearbox manual for the rebuild as the box on the mini is virtually the same as that used on Rover 200/400 models with a few minor differences. This manual is readily available on eBay on the Rover workshop CDs. I bought the parts from a local motor factors who got them directly from Rover. If you can't find the parts you need locally I can give you their address.
Good luck with your rebuild!

[MINIdriver85]

Would the Rover 200/400 gearbox fit the MINI? And if it does, is it better than the Midland?

[Mr. Fixit]

Quote: Originally Posted by MINIdriver85 (original)

Would the Rover 200/400 gearbox fit the MINI? And if it does, is it better than the Midland?

The Rover 200/400 gearbox is not exactly the same as the Midland box fitted in the Mini. The gear selector is different, the inboard differential oil seal diameter is different and the clutch housing probably (although I haven't compared the 2 side by side) is different to suit the engine. There may be other differences as well. As for one being better than the other, essentially they are the same design and they are made in the same factory. Why the versions fitted to Rover models seem to be trouble free is a mystery.

[Randall Raines]

Quote: Originally Posted by Mr. Fixit (original)

Hi. I have just finished rebuilding and fitting a midland gearbox to my sons 04 plate mini 1. The rebuild is straightforward and the £170 worth of bearings and seals were definitely cheap compared to the £2300 quoted by the BMW main dealer for fitting an exchange unit. Surprisingly, the old bearings etc. were in good nick. The problem was that the input shaft had excessive end float due to the outboard bearing spinning in it's bore and wearing the retaing clip. With hindsight, it would have been an easy and cheap repair just to replace the clip. This could be done without even removing the gearbox, as the clip and fifth gearset is accessible simply by removing the end cover of the gearbox with the plastic wheelarch removed.(Definitely worth a try as a first step!) I suspect that many of the faulty Midland boxes could be effectively be repaired like this provided that they are tackled as soon as the symptoms start, but I bet that BMW won't admit to that. I used a Rover R65 gearbox manual for the rebuild as the box on the mini is virtually the same as that used on Rover 200/400 models with a few minor differences. This manual is readily available on eBay on the Rover workshop CDs. I bought the parts from a local motor factors who got them directly from Rover. If you can't find the parts you need locally I can give you their address.
Good luck with your rebuild!

Are you or used to be a gearbox specialist ? Or did you just decide to give the rebuild a go rather than pay thousands £££££££££££££££.

I have a problem with a gearbox you may be able to shed some light on ?

I have a MINI 10,000 mls pre face-lift (Midland gearbox), It started to leak gearbox oil from the O/S drive-shaft, I always keep on top of repairs and with the box's having the faults that they do, I didn't want to add "no oil" to the list, As my other ½ was going away in the car I, wanted to sort it, so I got a seal from BMW, after making sure it was actually that, fitted it myself to make sure it was done properly, cleaned it off did a few miles in it, everything seemed OK, other ½ got back after about a week and you guessed it leaking again exactly the same place .
Before putting the seal in the box I checked the fit in the box and on the shaft, nothing wrong there it all seemed OK, fitted it in the box properly, the reason I checked the shaft is because it actually looked brand new (I don't think you can get copies) and I wanted to check the fit, ie. the shaft wasn't a slightly smaller diameter than an original shaft (I know it shouldn't be but I just checked anyway).
The only thing I can think, is the drive-shaft isn't spinning perfectly central or there is some movement in the box (no vibrations), which would make the seal seem OK checking it but at speed ie. driving it would cause it to leak .

This gearbox is the best one I've ever known in a MIMI, quiet, forward gears select OK, not notchy or stiff, reverse however is slightly hit and miss, ie. the odd time or two it doesn't go straight in to reverse 1st time, but you wouldn't change the gearbox because of it, especially if you were paying .

I do have a virtually new gearbox that I've been assured is OK, I could put this in but I don't know for certain (I'm not 100% sure as I never tested it myself), so It could be as bad if not worse than the one I've got in , so I'd rather sort out the original.

Do you think you could shed some light ?????

[ham00di]

hey all,

im new here and im totally clueless when it comes to engineering. I have a 2001 mini cooper (37,000miles), recently i started hearing this weird sound everytime my car was in gear so i decided to take my car to my local garage, and they said that my differential was broken. Soon after i went to BMW and they said that i had to change my whole gearbox but ive seen differentials bieng sold on several websites. so my question is what do you guys recommened, i dont have too much money to spend so the cheapest solution would most probably be the best one for me. thanks all!

Hamoodi J

[Randall Raines]

Quote: Originally Posted by ham00di (original)

hey all,

im new here and im totally clueless when it comes to engineering. I have a 2001 mini cooper (37,000miles), recently i started hearing this weird sound everytime my car was in gear so i decided to take my car to my local garage, and they said that my differential was broken. Soon after i went to BMW and they said that i had to change my whole gearbox but ive seen differentials bieng sold on several websites. so my question is what do you guys recommened, i dont have too much money to spend so the cheapest solution would most probably be the best one for me. thanks all!

Hamoodi J

My problem has been diagnosed to a worn / damaged differential bearing by a number of mechanics (it's the only thing that I / they can think off).

The problem that you will have reading on here (MINI2), is that there are a number of problems with the gearboxes, clutches, bearings etc... etc... all with similar symptoms, even to a professional, so a fault / repair that was found for one person, may not be the same fault / repair that you have / need .
Also even most professionals in garages don't even attempt to repair gearbox's, they normally send them off to be repaired by a gearbox specialist, as some times special tools will / may be needed and also something that may get over looked by someone who is unsure of what they are doing may be spotted straight away by a specialist, and you wont know until you have put it all back together for a test drive, so it could actually cost you more trying to save money by doing it yourself, but saying that it's not impossible for you to do it yourself, it's just I would advise against it (I have repaired a couple myself where a fork / selector has jumped ).
Most gearbox specialists will have come across the Midland gearbox by now and will / should know exactly what is needed and how much it should cost to sort out as there are no new ones anymore, all the ones out there will be reconditioned, exchange or used, the problem buying used is, there are that many problems with them, you could be buying one with the same or another fault and again you won't know until you put it back in, and most people who sell used ones will only replace them if faulty, not reimburse you for the labour of putting them in and taking them out .

If you can do the labour yourself then it may be worth doing as much of it as you can yourself, but leave the actual gearbox part off it, it is best left to the specialist, (have him lined up ready with the parts at the time you have removed your gearbox so that you're not left without a car longer than is necessary, they may even do an exchange service, as long as yours is servicable? ).

Once the gearbox is out it will be worth doing other certain jobs as-well such as the clutch release bearing, check the clutch for damage / wear and replace if necessary, all of which will proberbly save you money in the long run , but the cost will add up while doing the job .

[johnfromaus]

Our infamous Midlands gearbox....
My gearbox is currently in a million pieces in my garage. I was originally too chicken to do it, but it the end I thought my gearbox isn't gonna get any more broken than it is. I have overcome just about every other vehicular malfunction so I found the courage in the end. I noticed how some people say, "leave it to the experts, NEVER touch a gearbox" and others say "its possible if you have a moderate skill in mechanics". Allow me to share a few interesting points and hints about the pull-down process.

1. the haynes manual advises to simply shift the MFE (modular front end) forward, supported on long studs screwed into the chassis. After getting the box off, I cannot understand how you could do it with the MFE still attached to the car. Dont do what I did however. A lack of judgement and overexcitement to get the box off led to me detatching the AC hose to the condenser (danger!!!), luckily it drained slowly, hissing for 15mins, and didnt burst. make sure you get someone who has AC equipment to do drain the system before you mess with it and make sure to seal all openings immediately to avoid having to renew the receiver/drier (how do i know that?).

2. haynes manual advises against gearbox overhaul due to "many small parts and precise clearances requiring adjustment with shims, etc". Rover workshop manual states that our gearbox "does not require adjustment of clearances thanks to the design of the box".

3. box required quite some wobbling and fiddling to remove from crankcase. engine needs to be lowered substantially on the jack to make room. this is definitely a 2 man job.

4. leave the collars attached to the synchro gears or you will be picking up 3x small springs, 3x small ball bearings and 3x small metal pieces which shoot in 3x directions (how do i know this?)

5. the only 'retail' source for internal gearbox parts i have found is Pelican Parts - Porsche Parts & BMW Parts - Automotive Parts and Accessories - Porsche & BMW and trust me when i say ive spent days crawling the net to find something. you cant find them on the catalog, but if you go to RealOEM.com Online BMW Parts Catalog and find the oem part numbers, you can search them at pelican and they will show up. just copy and paste p/n from realoem and add everything to cart.

6. most expensive bearing is on the output shaft and is an SKF roller bearing. Diff bearings are of tapered roller construction and manufactured by Tinken. Ball bearings (1 on output, 2 on input) are made by SNR. Phone calls to source directly from manufacturers resulted in 3 dead ends.

7. i purchased a 12 tonne shop press (ive always wanted one anyway... was actually very cheap). a bearing separator and a 2-fork puller because my 3-legged ones are useless in this instance. parts - all bearings, new torx screws, output seals, guide sleeve, diff gear shims, output shaft locking rings (and receiver/drier *cough cough*). manual doesnt say to replace locking rings but there is a bit of wear and since these are the method for maintaining clearances within the box, replacing them may tighten up a little play. cheap benefits. the job is ridiculously simple with these tools. you could even sell them again afterwards but my belief is that selling tools is silly. parts cost me roughly AUD$400 incl shipping. essential dropped a zero from the quote from BMW

8. rover manual says to engage 1st and 5th gears to lock shafts and undo bolts. selector is different to rover box, but to achieve same the same thing on the mini box, pull lever outward and move towards diff side of case. this engages 1st. slip the disconnected synchro collar downward and presto. unstake nuts and they are actually easier to remove than i thought.

9. get the rover workshop manual on cd from ebay. absolutely priceless.

10. if you are mechanically minded and could build lego from the instructions, feel confident to do this. remember, its just a machine. man created it, man can repair it. i had a look under the bonnet of my friends broken ford explorer the other day and i consider myself lucky not to have to repair that.

I'll keep you in the loop as i progress once my parts arrive.

Good luck with your mini

[Randall Raines]

"if you are mechanically minded" that's the catch phrase "johnfromaus", I've removed & replaced the Gearbox with the front-panel (MFE (modular front end)) on but only because I didn't have access too the A/C machine that day otherwise I would have drained the system & removed it all, as you can spend more time struggling rather than saving time, (easy if you haven't got A/C or you've got access to an A/C machine ).

If you do it yourself, you know (or believe) it's done right, you only have yourself to blame if it's wrong down to faulty workmanship, and when it's all done and everything is OK, you have the satisfaction, knowing you've done it yourself and saved yourself loads of £££££ / $$$$$ .

[gadavies]

Mini Gearbox
My son owns a 53 mini one (5 years old). After 40,000 odd miles the gearbox has gone and requires replacing. I understand that the pre 04 models were fitted with an old Rover gearbox and that there is a history of problems with it. BMW are so far refusing to replace it on a goodwill basis and therefore it is likely that I will have to take them to court if an agreement cannot be reached. I therefore need to compile as much evidence as I can that this gearbox is flawed and also require experts in the field to testify to this. I would like to hear from anyone therefore who has experienced similar problems.

[pollywaddle71]

Sorry this is not any kind of technical contribution to this thread - but can anyone state whether the various (and numerous) possible faults/problems with the gearbox would be covered by a 3rd party warranty provided by a firm such as Warranty Direct?

[coleen]

Hi
How did you get on with BMW and goodwill. My Mini is 03 41,000 miles and I am just waiting to hear what if any goodwill will be given on my replacement GearBox

Coleen

Quote: Originally Posted by gadavies (original)

Mini Gearbox
My son owns a 53 mini one (5 years old). After 40,000 odd miles the gearbox has gone and requires replacing. I understand that the pre 04 models were fitted with an old Rover gearbox and that there is a history of problems with it. BMW are so far refusing to replace it on a goodwill basis and therefore it is likely that I will have to take them to court if an agreement cannot be reached. I therefore need to compile as much evidence as I can that this gearbox is flawed and also require experts in the field to testify to this. I would like to hear from anyone therefore who has experienced similar problems.

[Simmy68]

I have got a Mini Cooper 52 plate. The car had only done 43k when I noticed a knocking noise coming from the engine when I was in any gear. Took it to a garage and they diagnosed a transmission / gearbox problem. As they quoted me nearly 2k for a exchange gearbox and fitment I decided to do the job myself. The gearbox can be removed if you have a/c but I found it easier to unbolt the compressor to allow more movement of the hoses. Also dropping down or removing the front sub-frame will allow the gearbox to be removed a lot easier. I didn't move the engine at all, just supported it underneath. The MFE can be just moved outwards as suggested and not removed.

[stevefm]

If you are anywhere in the UK Midlands and don't want to do the work yourself, I can recommend Drivers Transmissions in Highgate, Birmingham B12 0EA (0121 773 6633). They replaced all bearings and seals in the gearbox on my '52 Cooper for £670 inc VAT. At the same time they replaced the clutch for £148.

The car had done about 80,000 miles and the box was making growling noises in all gears. It's now like driving a new car, I hadn't realised just how noisy the box was. The main dealer had told me it was a wheel bearing ! Incidentally, Drivers was recommended to me by an independent BMW specialist, Noel Baker, at NCB Autokraft in Earlswood near Birmingham. I can also recommend him if you are in the area.

[ppl]

Hi, I´ve a Mini Cooper 2001, now with a gearbox problem. Where can I find the differencial side gear (2), the differencial pinion (2) and the washers(2+2)? I found the gearbox bearing rebuild kit including bearings and oil seals on ebay (fasttrackbearings) but they don´t have the other parts. Thanks.

[ppl]

Quote: Originally Posted by Mr. Fixit (original)

The Rover 200/400 gearbox is not exactly the same as the Midland box fitted in the Mini. The gear selector is different, the inboard differential oil seal diameter is different and the clutch housing probably (although I haven't compared the 2 side by side) is different to suit the engine. There may be other differences as well. As for one being better than the other, essentially they are the same design and they are made in the same factory. Why the versions fitted to Rover models seem to be trouble free is a mystery.

Hi,
Are the drive shaft sprocket, the drive pinion and the pin of the Mini Cooper gearbox the same of the Rover 200/400 gearbox?
Thanks