On Feb 10th I'll be off back down to CR with STI rear dampers, adjustable brake bias, Hydraulic hand brake, battery boot relocation, sadly the oringinal radiator as my WRX conversion will not be allowed in the rules plus a bunch of other stuff and decals. The goal is to have the engine running by the end of Feb. First rally date is April 14th. More photos to follow.
one of the most popular questions I get is to why did I go with Subaru STI for my suspension. 1/ good past experience 2/ cost 3/ gravel spec availability . There seems to be a ton of tarmac spec dampers but nothing for gravel at a cost I can afford. I'm using road dampers to start with, then could use this set up. Ksport Adjustable Coilover Systems, Camber Kits and Suspension Products | Ksport Store
Last edited by Rally370; Feb 21st, 2013 at 01:20 PM.
This visit I got the cam shaft in and most of the engine parts back where they should be. With a few hours work I was able the fit the Subaru STI rear dampers to the R56 trailing arm. Work required was to make a new top mount using Subaru/Mini , bore out the bottom bolt hole to 14mm and grind a little bit off the trailing arm. Ride height went up by 3/4" and I get around 1 1/2" extra . travel. Brake line I will attach later.
depends how good you are with the spanners but saying that you have to be creative. I'm wanting a Plus ride height not minus like most folks as I'm going to be on gravel stages.
The engine is back together less the radiator and S oil heat exchanger. The radiator I left off as I plan to fit a new alternator and S oil heat exchanger on my next visit. The rear STI suspension, R56 trailing arms and Helix lateral arms are fitted. Steel trailing arm weighs 23lbs, the R56 15lbs, Steel laterals 8LBs a pair, Helix 4Lbs a pair. So 22lbs less of unsprung weight. Next trip back won't be until March 27th with the first rally being April 14th. I'm going to be really busy to finish on time but if not the next rally is in May. Last thing I want to do is rush and miss something important.
Wow! That was a very hot weekend and working outside does not make things any easier. The other problem is being Costa Rica it's not easy to get parts. Imagine I need some long 10mm bolts to mount the shifter. I couldn't find any so I had to weld 3 bolts together! Also I needed 90 angle hoses for the S oil heater exchanger which I'll have to get from the US. Anyway after many hours slaving over a hot Mini the office is taking shape. I have both hydraulic and cable hand brakes for 2 reasons. 1/ I need cable for the tech test(this is a daily driver) 2/ if I lose the brakes on a rally I still have a mechanical back up! Notice the rust? just a few days in the humid weather. I'm going to paint it soon.
The engine is done. I did the battery cut off and fire system pull recessed as in rallying we tend to go off into bushes etc so the last thing I need is a branch setting off the fire system. Also the scuttle grills now act as heat out vents for the engine.
I used the Helix short shifter , which makes the shift very nice.
This badge should give the other teams something to worry about..hahaha
This visit has been the most productive so far; everything seemed to go right for a change! Hahaha I figured out my wiring issues and finished the front of the car apart from the Strut/chassis bar which I plan to make when the car is on the road. The wiring DUH! Was I cut the CAN bus to the IKE thinking this was part of the airbag wiring as it’s the same colour wire. I pretty sure now everything will work again as all the modules can chat to each other. I finished the under body protection brackets and fitted a hose to provide fresh air to the power steering pump area. Also I like to have to have foam between the skid plate and engine to stop stones gathering there which could make a hole in the sump. Another job finished was the recessed battery cut off and fire system deployment lever. Fitting the poly suspension control arm bushes was very easy. ½ hour right side and 45 mins left side. Just unbolt the ball joints, use a 5/16 drill to remove as much rubber bushing as possible then use a bar to pry out the arm. Use a sazall to carefully cut the outer metal so it pops out. Don’t go nuts here as you could cut the housing up! . To fit the poly bush I used a cheap 3 arm hub puller with the arms removed. Then made a plate to push in the bush, add some soap and in about minute the bush was in. Then use an angle grinder to cut the old bush off the arm and refit the arm on the car. Done! Now the front was done I could finally fit the front bumper to make the Mini whole again! Before fitting the wheels I added the mud flaps needed for rallying….just finished that job when the heavens opened! Rain stopped play.
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and the Mini in the customs jail along with all the cars no one cleared! 
. To fit the poly bush I used a cheap 3 arm hub puller with the arms removed. Then made a plate to push in the bush, add some soap and in about minute the bush was in. Then use an angle grinder to cut the old bush off the arm and refit the arm on the car. Done! Now the front was done I could finally fit the front bumper to make the Mini whole again! Before fitting the wheels I added the mud flaps needed for rallying….just finished that job when the heavens opened! Rain stopped play. 
