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| MINI2 Newbie Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: New York, NY Local Time: 07:23 PM
Posts: 16
Offline | Track pads and rotors Since I will be bring my MCS to the track with R-compounds, I am considering getting a set of race pads for the front brakes. Once of the track guys said it's best to get a set of front rotors also to go with the pads, as the bedding process fuses the pad materials to the rotors. I was considering getting a set of Ferodo DS3000, but I heard the brake dust is VERY corrosive to the wheels. Any comments??? Since this is the first track event with the MINI, I'll just have to get a feel of how the stock brake will do. Can't stand the way the run flats do so I guess I have to be patient on testing the capabilities of the stock brakes. Thanks 04 Indi Blue MCS |
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| | #2 (permalink) |
| Mile High MCS Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Fort Collins, CO Local Time: 01:23 PM
Posts: 47
Offline | WHen I tracked my Audi A4 I would have a matched set of rotors and pads for the street and for the track. I got good enough to switch the rotor/pad pair in about 45 minutes - the MINI's front brakes are virtually identical to the Audi's. I would usually leave the rear pads the same all the time. I had pretty good luck with the Ferodo 2500's front and rear on the MINI and did not switch them from street to track. I'm still running the 2500's on hte rear with my new Stoptech's. You are right that the pads need to be bedded into the rotor to work properly. The bedding in process deposits a thin layer of pad material onto the rotor that helps the pads grip the rotor better. 2003 Cooper S IB/W 2000 Audi A4 1.8TQ |
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| | #3 (permalink) |
| Track Addict Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Sydney Local Time: 06:23 AM
Posts: 2,669
Offline | Hi, In an ideal world it would be great to match a new set of pads with new rotors. However, it is not allways necessary. However, if your rotors are getting pretty worn, I would change them. If they are reasonably new and not too worn you should be OK. I have done this several times with no problems. However, you should follow bedding in procedure STRICTLY. After all, the bedding in process is designed to make sure that there is adequate coating of the pad material on the surface of the disc. There was an excellent thread on here recently about the bedding in process, but I have lost the link. Ferodo usually supplies an information sheet with there pads, giving instructions for bedding in that particular pad (or at least they do here in Australia). I haven't used ferodos for some time, and have lost the bedding in instruction sheet, but from memory the instructions for bedding in 3000's is to drive at 80km (50mph) and apply brakes with 50% of maximal force, brake to 40km, and repeat this process 20x. Then a visual inspection of the pad surface is recommended. The ferodo 3000's are very noisy, and do make a lot of dust. The dust is metallic, and does tend to stick to rims more than normal dust, and with time can stain the rims. This is especially a problem is it gets wet frequently, as the dust can rust. I am currently using Galfer track pads. They have similar thermal properties to 3000's, but have more bite, higher u value (friction coefficient) over most thermal ranges, have better feel, and are slightly less abrasive to the rotors. They are also slightly more expensive. I'm note sure if they are available in the USA. Cheers Robbo Mods: GO MADDIE and SPARKY! |
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| | #4 (permalink) |
| MINI2 Newbie Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: New York, NY Local Time: 07:23 PM
Posts: 16
Offline | I guess I'll just start with the Ferodo DS2500 all around with the Kumho V700s and give it a shot. I doubt I'll be going too aggressive in the driving school since I haven't driven a front wheel drive car on the track for almost 6 years. Just want to take it easy and get a feel of the dynamics of the MINI. BTW, I saw a thread somewhere regarding the Kumho V700 chunking excessively across the tread. My set of V700 have a couple of autocross events on them, and they did have a "line" wore out across the tread. Some people say it happens on the Kumho and it's ok. For autocross it's fine since the speed is low, but I am a bit concern for driving school. Any thoughts?? 04 Indi Blue MCS |
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| | #5 (permalink) |
| Mile High MCS Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Fort Collins, CO Local Time: 01:23 PM
Posts: 47
Offline | This brings another questin to mind: if you are replacing pads - same compound - and not the rotors, what is the bedding procedure? I assume you want to get the pads hot enough to release some of the binding agents, but you don't need to to about the deposition process since the rotors are already coated. 2003 Cooper S IB/W 2000 Audi A4 1.8TQ |
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| | #7 (permalink) |
| Mile High MCS Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Fort Collins, CO Local Time: 01:23 PM
Posts: 47
Offline | Obe, I knew that - it doesn't answer the question: How do you bed in only the pads on rotors that already have been bedded in with the same pad compound? Is it the same? 2003 Cooper S IB/W 2000 Audi A4 1.8TQ |
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| | #8 (permalink) |
| Track Addict Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Sydney Local Time: 06:23 AM
Posts: 2,669
Offline | Hi, Yes, you need to bed in the new pads exactly the same. Every set of pads needs bedding in, regardless of whether you have new or old rotors Robbo Mods: GO MADDIE and SPARKY! |
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