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| Okey dokey.... These are just some random, unedited night shots.... I'm using a Konica Minolta Z3 camera, not the best, but pretty damned good so far I've found (just need more practice!). Last edited by Paul; May 18th, 2010 at 05:33 PM. |
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| Paul, if you post on here you will most likely get your answer. Lots of photography buffs frequent this thread. http://www.mini2.com/forum/showthrea...=photographers "Sunshine and Peace." - Maxamini ![]() |
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| Paul - first thing you need is a really solid tripod. Then remember, aperature works just the same at night - so the higher the f number the more the depth of field. Ie, f16 will give you good depth of field, so focus will likely be better. Find out how your expesure meter works. If it is centre weighted, try to point it at an area of indicitive brightness across the field. this stops something bright causing under exposure, and dark patches causing over exposure. Now, onto colour. I'm not sure entirely how the digital things handle colour at night, but when shooting on film remember that it's balanced for daylight which is a particular colour temperature. i.e if you photgraph under incandescent light, it will appear very yellow. You can counteract this with a blue filter. If you photograph under flourescent, you'll get a blue tinge requiring a orange or warming filter. As to how the AWB on your camera handles all this - good luck with the trial and error. Don't forget about multiple exposures. I've done this with some of my photos - used ambient to get the field in, and then used flash to illuminate the subject in the foreground. Works great !! |
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| There's a choice of how the exposure meter works I believe. I was wondering if there's any ballpark figures for ISO rating (film speed) and exposure times and apature settings that are generally good stating points for various night time scenarios? |
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| Paul, You could try PMing MGB Boy - he's a photography nut and has given me a lot of useful advice. He sent me some ballpark figures for night shots once, but I seem to have lost them - sorry. ![]() I would think that the center weighted metering is probably the best one for night shots, or full manual using exposure bracketing (taking a series of shots at different settings). The good thing about digital is that the data stored with each shot will give you good feedback about the right settings to use. Start with trial and error and make a note of which settings give better results and you should be able to narrow it down fairly quickly. ![]() Religion is like a huge dog. If it's yours it's very friendly and comforting, but it scares the heck out of everyone else. |
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| The problem is with guides is that light is really hard to judge. Thing is, our eyes are constantly adjusting, so we are behind the 8 ball when it comes to judging the amount of light out there At night this is even harder, because a streetlight somewhere might be several times brighter than one 500m away, and as our eyes adjust it might only look a little brighter ...As garget gav says, try bracketing. with digital, it doesn't matter how many you screw up |
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| Tags: night photography, night time, photography |
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