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  #1 (permalink)  
Old Mar 10th, 2014, 10:46 PM
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Cylinder Leakdown

Hello, i have a 2007 mini cooper s. i purchased the car about six months ago at ~58000 mi from a bmw used car lot. purchased an aftermarket service agreement for the motor the lasts til 100k. timing chain needed to be fixed apon pre purchase inspection and was agreed to by sellers and performed by mini dealership. carbon removal was done at this time as well. about three weeks ago the car lost power and threw a code. took it to a dealership closer to me (still mini) and now warranty will not approve teardown siting that i have not provided enough receipts that state mileage at time of service. well, i did the oil changes myself and didnt bother to write down the mileage as i was changing it every month knowing that i didnt drive more than 3-5 k a month. i got my car back from mini dealership after denial and they reported the diagnostic of leak down inspection stating 90% at cyl #3. any advice?

current mileage is 72k
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Old Mar 12th, 2014, 04:33 AM
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180 views, 0 replies. anyone? please?
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Old Mar 12th, 2014, 01:37 PM
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Hi ya

It could be anything really from a piston rings to valves.
When you do a leak down check it's simple to find where and what is suspect ie 90% air loss is a lot. They should know where is coming from just by listening, to the inlet track or exhaust or oil filler cap (very basically)
But if the leak down is not done correctly it can read false ie if the piston your not checking is not on the compression stroke and both sets of valves are shut it will leak.

To be loosing that amount on the leak down it sounds like a Burt/bent valve, it could be a combination of Carbon and bad valves These thing can carbon up really quick depending on driving style but it's very hard to tell over the net

Does the car run really rough at ideal or down on power
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Old Mar 12th, 2014, 10:07 PM
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Hi, thanks for the reply.
yeah i have pretty much guessed that it is a valve.
I had the timing chain and guide done and since my friend was a mini tech he convinced them to do a carbon cleaning on the motor. that was about 6 months ago and i run only premium gas so idk if it can build up that fast, that badly?
yes it idles rough, or rather it did idled rough before its current state (now i can hardly even drive it due to huge lack of power and the motor wanting to die at idle)

my biggest concern is that the warranty people say they wont approve tear down bc they dont have receipts to prove its not maintenance related.

its 2g's to tear down at mini, do you think i should just do it, knowing that there seems to be quite a bit of evidence that this is a common problem with the 2007 r56? i mean, i have been searching more since posting this and it would seem that clye #3 or #4 lose compression almost constantly in these motors. do you really think the aftermarket warranty will seriously contest its something i did?


im so frustrated by this, and the worst part is im making these damn payments on a car i cant drive....
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Old Mar 12th, 2014, 11:54 PM
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Hi ya

If your mate is a mini tech get him to borascope the cylinder look at the piston and cylinder liner top to bottom if it's ok, that will give you a guide, then while he is there he can check the valves.

It pointless pulling the engine to bits to tell you what you know if you have done the above

The warrantee cover offered can be a pain they always gave an out some how, and the cover is only for certain items not good.

If the warrantee company are stuck in there way and are not going to pay I can only see a few options 1) a second hand head 2) pull the head change the valves and hope the seat is ok. If your mate is a mini tech get him to help you, it can be done easily in a day.
If you confirm it is 100% the valve a head swap is not a massive job

If and it's only an if but if the cam timing was not set correctly when the chain and guides was changed or it may have moved a tooth, it may have caused the valve problem.

It may not be a carbon problem that caused the valve problem, carbon build up has been known at around 13000 miles, the carbon build up is due to the PVC system pushing oil mist back in to the intake. One of the best ways to sort the problem is to run a oil separator system, but if you fit one flush out your intercooler and clean your intake system, or you will not get the full benefit.

Few links to read

http://www.mini2.com/forum/second-ge...-cooper-s.html

http://www.northamericanmotoring.com...am-timing.html

http://www.northamericanmotoring.com...re-at-78k.html

http://www.northamericanmotoring.com...ice-badly.html


Sorry feel your pain :-(
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Old Mar 13th, 2014, 04:33 PM
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yeah, only thing is my mini tech friend, who got me this "great deal" and was supposed to be here to help me if anything went wrong with the car JUST moved away and is super busy with things out there.... pretty bad timing but it was a good move for him. i had another friend tell me that this should not be happening to a car ive had for only six months, he used to be an insurance adjuster and was fairly convinced this warranty company is just playing hardball, and i should just basically force them to fix it or make the company that i purchased the car from pay. thanks again, this is such a pain. if i didnt absolutely love my car i wouldnt put up with this crap.
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Old May 13th, 2014, 10:21 PM
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So the car is at a new shop now, i approved teardown ($1600) and as it turns out i do indeed have a broken exhaust valve and heavy scoring in cylinder #3. the shop called me today after having spoken with the warranty rep. it seems they do not want to cover the repair cost stating "the exhaust valve had failed due to carbon build up". according to my service writer and mechanic this is absolute horse crap. they recommended i call the warranty people, ask for management and have them explain to me exactly how this can happen.

my thoughts are weather or not i should tell them that i had the carbon cleaning done at time of purchase, less than 18000 miles ago? should i record the conversation? should i have them email me the explanation after our conversation?

any thoughts?
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Old May 20th, 2014, 10:00 PM
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Little update for anyone to come across this.

After many calls and much research I got the warranty to pay for a brand new motor. Work should be done later this week. Ironically it would have been more expensive to purchase a used motor. After much research I have decided to install a meth/water injection system for both cooling and to help prevent carbon build up. I will also be adding an access port tuner soon. Thanks again for the feedback
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Old May 21st, 2014, 07:08 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by hoopla (original)
Little update for anyone to come across this.

After many calls and much research I got the warranty to pay for a brand new motor. Work should be done later this week. Ironically it would have been more expensive to purchase a used motor. After much research I have decided to install a meth/water injection system for both cooling and to help prevent carbon build up. I will also be adding an access port tuner soon. Thanks again for the feedback

That's very Good news mate good on you.

Water meth:-)

Get your self a good air/oil separator as well a good one is a must
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Old May 22nd, 2014, 07:11 AM
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thanks man.

i was under the impression that the catch cans were not very effective.
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Old May 22nd, 2014, 08:19 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by hoopla (original)
thanks man.

i was under the impression that the catch cans were not very effective.

As long as you get a good quality air oil separator they are fine and work well.

Here are a few I have seen used

BMW Oil Catch Can for BMW 135 335 1M 535 by BMS Best Oil Catch Can

M7 Oil Catch Can | M7Tuning.com

JLT Oil Separator BASE KIT (Universal) [JLTOS] - $109.00 : JLT PERFORMANCE, Home of the JLT TRUE COLD AIR KIT

Mishimoto Oil Catch Cans / Oil Catch Tanks
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