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HELP PLEASE! issues again with the cooling fan! pisquano First Generation Faults & Fixes 1 Apr 15th, 2009 02:59 PM
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  #16 (permalink)  
Old Jun 28th, 2012, 05:05 PM
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creedR56, if in warranty don't even think of dealing with service technicians/managers etc; go straight to the Dealer Principle. Find his phone number or email address from reception. Tell him the problem + that no-one seems to be listening. Follow up by email immediately. Keep insisting on taking it back and ask for a loan car. Or, leave it there without one. Give them (say) 3 attempts + threaten to escalate to his boss. Threaten to reject the car and ask him the best way to approach his bosses to go about it. Took a month of 'faffing about' but worked for me!
Loadsa luck!
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old Aug 16th, 2012, 03:56 PM
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I have the same issue, just bought my MCS last week. At first the fan would stay on for a while, yesterday it was a small noise and the hood was extremely hot. I put my hand on the hood and it was extremely hot, to hot to keep it there for more than a second without burning it. Going to give it in to the dealership and hopefully get it resolved.
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Old Aug 16th, 2012, 04:47 PM
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Dakri. I believe there are two heating issues - bonnet as well as cooling fan.

The bonnet gets hot due to the proximity of the turbo. I poached some seagull mess on mine; it took ages to polish off. I solved this by buying underbonnet insulation. There's a big topic about this on NAM c/w part numbers.

It seems there might a few suspect thermostats being installed at the factory, too. My Feb 2012 N18 MCS has had coolant bleeding + two new 'stats before the (fast/loud) fan behaved itself and now stays off. It used to come on as soon as the car 'warmed-up'. If your dealer plugs into the OBD socket to read temps or codes the computer claims everything's normal due to the faulty 'stat (temperature) sensor so the dealer assures you it's 'a feature of the car' and sends you away. I gather there's a 'thermostat' as well as a 'thermostat sensor' that can cause troubles. My dealer subsequently claimed my first 'stat was just a sensor change and the second 'stat was the whole lot, plus coolant bleed for good measure.

Hope this has helped and that you get it sorted. Independent (BMW) techs say the loud/fast fan should only come on if you're stuck in crawling traffic on a hot day to compensate for lack of airflow. (Sometimes for ~30s after you switch off in hot climates, too.) The a/c always makes it come on slowly and so quietly that you probably won't hear it. It's a two-speed fan, I gather...
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Old Aug 17th, 2012, 03:08 PM
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Thanks CJM

sorry but what is "NAM c/w part numbers" can you provide a link. What did you buy (part number). I just find this very odd that the hood of a car can get so hot.This is my first MCS and I'm not so car savy, so I hope the dealer just doesn't shhhh me away.
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Old Aug 17th, 2012, 07:12 PM
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Dakri. I've attached three images:-

blue - # 51487266543
white - # 51487307579 (this fits my '12 N18 MCS ok, no loud fan/overheating probs...)
red - # 51487334335


If you go down this route you'll need 11 x # 51481915964 expanding rivets to fix it via the holes already provided in the bonnet, too.

Hope this post works ok and that it might help solve your problem.

(BTW; NAM is northamericanmotoring.com. plus the usual waiver - anything you do different to professional advice is your responsibility; not mine)
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Old Aug 18th, 2012, 06:19 PM
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Ive got a 2012 JCW and Ive not heard the fan come on at all yet, so perhaps it doesnt even work, not overheated though so all must be normal.
Ok its got a different engine to the Cooper S, N14, and its faster of course, so gets the breeze quicker
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Old Aug 21st, 2012, 02:29 PM
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So I got the car back and they said all is normal! So frigging annoying. He also mentioned that the new mini's do not come with the insulation. I'm going to go pick up my ride now and check all the Cooper S to see if this is true.

Should I just buy the insulation myself?

So annoyed.
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old Aug 21st, 2012, 02:57 PM
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I've decided not to get it done, as I don't want to void any warranty.
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old Aug 21st, 2012, 04:42 PM
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It's a 2min job to remove...
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Old Nov 5th, 2012, 05:33 PM
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My R56 MCS has just developed a similar problem with its cooling fan. On a short run the cooling fan runs for about 5mins after I stop; but on longer runs it does not! It has also been misfiring a bit when cold. This morning I got the car out of the garage turned it off and the fan was running.

Took it the my dealer today for a service and they say the temperature sensor is faulty and needs to be replaced at cost of around 250. Apparently they have to drain and replace the coolant but as the car is nearly 6 years old I suppose that is no bad thing.

The technician thinks that bad readings from the temperature sensor have not only affected the fan but have probably been giving bad info to the engine management syatem and causing the misfire when cold.

Sounds plausible. I hope he proves to be right.
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old Nov 6th, 2012, 12:29 AM
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My final 'cooling' update I hope...

Another new temp sensor fitted after I asked a dealer on 14/9/12 if all was well with coolant sensors after reading of a recent TSB (quiet recall) via NAM.

I was invited back in for warranty work on 18/9/12 because all wasn't well (according to the dealer) after being asked my VIN code.

According to a NAM poster the original (N14) MCS thermostat has a coolant temp sensor integrated within it.This sensor sometimes becomes unreliable and gives false readings to the computer causing errors which then cause the loud engine cooling fan to run during travel and for extended periods after switch off. I suppose the car thinks it needs extra cooling.

He said he latest US fix is to install a new hose in place of an original to the rad. which incorporates a new, separate, coolant sensor and a new, modified, wiring harness/connector that relocates the original wiring to this new sensor.

I have seen that my car has received this new hose with different electrical connectors on a new housing so I am comfortable with the rest of the 'explanation' having experienced these symptoms prior to the fix before this latest fix (which, actually, cured the constant fan-running problems I had after it warmed up). It's not a recall but a service 'extra' and I wasn't offered a warranty/work receipt, as I had on both occasions before. When I queried this the dealer said it's all recorded on the key as warranty work anyway, so no need...

So, finally, a 'quiet' dealer resolution to my problem but I'd urge anybody suffering unexpected loud (stage 2) fan noise not only to look for info. via posts on the NAM site and share them on this site but also to mention their fears to the dealer and not be assured that 'they all run like that' or 'it's a feature of the model' (esp on the N18 variants).

I hope this post crystallizes some 'cooling doubts'. IMO the fan shouldn't run any more often (esp since this originally seemed a 'feature' of my N18 model) and mine, finally, supports this opinion now...
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Old Mar 3rd, 2013, 01:06 PM
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My son has an R56, late 2009, Cooper S.
Recently, he has developed this problem with the fan running on for quite some time after switching off.
At the same time, he doesn't get any heating in the car.
We took it out for a run with a OBD adaptor and found that his coolant temperature never gets above mid 40s C.
Yesterday, we changed the temperature sensor but that did nothing; max temperature was 46C.
So, we are now looking at a possible duff thermostat; is it possible a thermostat stuck in the open position could be the cause of these symptoms?
After replacing the sensor, which resulted in some coolant leaking out, I got him to slacken the vent screw on the thermostat to bleed the system but, after a very long wait, we never saw any fluid appear at the vent screw. I assume that means there is air in the system. Could this be the cause of the above symptoms and, if so, is there anything we should know about bleeding it?
By the way, his problems really began with the turbo going on strike. In the end we found that to be due to the stupid noise generator leaking. That is now in the bin and the pipe closed off with a golf ball, some tape and a couple of jubilee clips. Result!
Cheers
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Old Mar 3rd, 2013, 02:31 PM
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My dealer initially changed the thermostat then a fortnight later both sensor + thermostat + housing completely before keeping it for a few days to bleed the system fully.
I'd have thought fluid should emerge from the 'stat bleed screw. Perhaps when you replace the 'stat housing and 'stat you can get a feel for how far you need to turn the bleed screw before feeling that you're going to lose it down in the engine by over-loosening it. I read '3 turns' somewhere, but haven't done it myself yet.
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Old Mar 3rd, 2013, 06:59 PM
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I am hoping to avoid changing the stat. If the problem is possibly down to air in the system, I will be ecstatic. When we slackened the vent screw, we ended up going to the max (without losing it in the innards). A new approach will be needed for tomorrow.
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Old Mar 3rd, 2013, 10:24 PM
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...fingers crossed...
Please let us know how you get on and any tips that work for you.
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