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  #16 (permalink)  
Old Jan 5th, 2013, 09:20 PM
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I said many posts ago that this would run and run. I too, check my my oil on a regular basis, but weekly not daily as you do. Every engine is different, that much we know. Unless each engine is built to exacting standards, every engine will run differently, have a slightly different power output and use different amounts of oil. Mass production makes for cheaper products but also imperfect products.

I work for a very large lift manufacturer. If they can save money, any amount of money, by omitting for example, a spring washer, they will.

How much money could BMW/MINI save by NOT actually filling every car they produce up to the full mark on the dipstick? They fill it up to the max mark because they need to.
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old Jan 7th, 2013, 06:23 PM
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i keep my oil level 3/4 of the way to the full mark on my dipstick and i cheek it every sunday without fail and if i have a few odd mins whilst im waiting for the her-indoors to finally get out of the house as im waiting for her outside, i'm know to be topping up the windscreen washer bottle and cheeking my oil,
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Old Jan 8th, 2013, 08:08 AM
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great post guys and a lot of good/interesting comments and knowledge given.

from this it would seem the main thing to take home is to check your engine oil on a regular basis and not to leave it to the service intervals !!

weekly or even in some cases daily could be recommended.

Iain
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Old Jan 9th, 2013, 06:47 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by bmwr606 (original)
both my dad and i have 2012 cms all4s

on both cars, if they are filled to the full line on the dipstick, they will burn 1/2 quart in 200-300 miles

if not topped off, but let the oil level alone, neither car burns any more oil til oil/filter change

i now only put in 4 quarts at oil/filter change which puts the oil level right at 1/2 way between full and add and neither car burns any oil

i do extra oil/filter changes between OBC indicated changes and ask the dealer to fill to 1/2 (ie 4 quarts) when they do an oil/filter change

no more oil consumption

try it

scott

Exactly the same on my 07 MCS! If it is topped off then it uses oil until 1/2 or 3/4 full. After that it doesn't use any. I have just done 2500 miles like this with no oil use. I do check the oil regularly expecting there to be none in though!
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Old Jan 9th, 2013, 07:18 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Jonnyfive (original)
Exactly the same on my 07 MCS! If it is topped off then it uses oil until 1/2 or 3/4 full. After that it doesn't use any. I have just done 2500 miles like this with no oil use. I do check the oil regularly expecting there to be none in though!

I have mixed views about this. We know that the sump has a low capacity. When the oil level reaches halfway on the stick, the capacity must obviously be even lower. With the timing chain issues seen in the past, how would MINI themselves see this situation? There have been many reports/posts stating that oil light flashes on when cornering with low oil. I'm just wandering if any good will would be shown in such conditions.
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Old Jan 10th, 2013, 05:23 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Dermottdog (original)
I have mixed views about this. We know that the sump has a low capacity. When the oil level reaches halfway on the stick, the capacity must obviously be even lower. With the timing chain issues seen in the past, how would MINI themselves see this situation? There have been many reports/posts stating that oil light flashes on when cornering with low oil. I'm just wandering if any good will would be shown in such conditions.

Hi ya

Oil capacity on the minis are from 5 lts on gen 1 to 4.5 on the gen 2 (petrol) so not bad qty, normally from min to max on the dip stick is 1 lts ish.
some other makes of cars are 3.5 lts not much
The mini's do not have a low level light. the light is there for low/ no oil pressure
This comes on you are going to have problem.
If you go to mini say you engine is knocking they check it, and you have no oil. They will not help you well that not true, they will help you out of your hard earned money to the expense of a new engine plus fitting.
It takes a couple of min to check the oil it's very basic and costs you nothing unless you have to add oil.
As long as you between min and max your ok out side of those you may have problems everyone has there own ideas but that's the basics.
There are a few reasons why people don't spend 5 min at the week end to check the oil, water and tires at the weekend
1 to dam lazy drive it till the wheels fall off and wounder why and 2 they don't know how.
I am not pointing figures that's the black and white of it
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old Jan 10th, 2013, 06:36 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Dermottdog (original)
I'm just wandering if any good will would be shown in such conditions.

I can't disagree if you are the type never to check anything- that could be a big problem. I am very keen therefore happy to run it half or 3/4 full, my motor sounds fantastic (well as good as it gets-it had the full timing chain fix under warranty in Aug 2010) and no problems. I am very particular on start up etc to get oil pressure and I don't get chain rattle. 0w 30 is a must in my book. I'll let you know if I seize it up though
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old Jan 10th, 2013, 09:09 PM
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All good comments guys. Shall we move on. Gear box oil anyone?
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old Jan 10th, 2013, 10:02 PM
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Lol. Gearbox oil. Never needs changing.... another can of worms

By the way, for those that aren't aware, the current R56 engine is based on the plentiful (I'm not going to claim it was successful ) TU5JP4 PSA engine with parts from the Pentagon engine in the R50/52/53 and some new bits.

In PSA form they only held about 3 litres of oil. Gives me the willies every time I service it and not much oil comes out! (I have a Lemon C3 as well as the Mini), so the Mini to have 4.5 - 5 litres is a significant boost, but obviously if the level is below the pickup, or low and you corner hard and it all sloshes to one side, damage can occur.

In my mind excess usage is not acceptable. I've spoken to plenty of Alfa owners in the last 5 years who have had new cars (and one mechanic who specialised in Alfa/Ferrari/Maserati) and whenever they had consumption like that, 100% of the time it was a Fri arvo engine with bits so far out of spec it was never going to work. Engine rebuild later they use no oil. Yep, anecdotal but hey, that's my experience!


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Old Jan 11th, 2013, 01:14 PM
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Hi All,

Great thread, oil consumption can also be as a result of the Oil Brand and type. I am sure most of you know that in our Cooper S's we need to always use fully synthetic engine oil.

One brand and grade of oil that always keeps coming up in my research is the "Castrol Edge 5W-40" and "Castrol Edge Sport 10W-60" both are turbo friendly oils. I have had issues with in the past due to the cars previous owner not using the correct type of oil.

One thing that I am not certain of is this, I know the Castrol Edge oil is ideal and should keep the oil pressure etc within range as well as fully protect the engine. I am not sure that the Castrol Edge Sport would be suitable due to the much higher 60 viscosity which will more than likely increase the engine oil pressure but will handle higher engine and environment temperatures.

Another suggestion as mentioned previously, change your oil every 5000- to 10000 km to ensure carbonation remains at a minimum
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Old Jan 16th, 2013, 01:26 AM
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Personally I use the following for a service:
- oil flush before dropping the old oil (made a world of difference on my Volvo V40T4 that had turbo issues - 5 services later they were fixed)
- Castrol Edge (0W30 if I can afford it, 5W30 if I can't)

Done this on all my cars in the last 8 years with no oil related issues.


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  #27 (permalink)  
Old Jan 29th, 2013, 09:21 AM
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I've been adding 0-40w Castrol Fully Synthetic oil as of late to cope with the weather we have been having in the UK,
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old Jan 29th, 2013, 11:13 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by UtilityGuy (original)
I've been adding 0-40w Castrol Fully Synthetic oil as of late to cope with the weather we have been having in the UK,

Does this help? Does it stay a bit thicker when cold or something? Sorry of seems dumb I'm just not very clued up on the sciences of fully synthetic plus and grades!

Thanks


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Old Jan 29th, 2013, 11:32 PM
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well as far as i know, the 0 is the lower operation temperature and 40 is its top end temp, so with the really cold weather we get at this time of the year, i find that it gets to the cam belt tensioner faster and stops the rattle that all cooper S owners seem to get,
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old Jan 30th, 2013, 03:21 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by UtilityGuy (original)
well as far as i know, the 0 is the lower operation temperature and 40 is its top end temp, so with the really cold weather we get at this time of the year, i find that it gets to the cam belt tensioner faster and stops the rattle that all cooper S owners seem to get,

the 0 and 40 are the viscosity rating of the oil, not temperature

the number before the W is the viscosity rating at a low temp and the number after the W is the viscosity rating at a high temperature

the W signifies that the oil is suitable for winter use

thats why they call them multigrade or multiviscosity oils

so a 0W40 oil exhibites the properties of a 0 viscosity oil at low temps and the properties of a 40 viscosity oil at high temps

google viscosity or wikipedia

scott

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