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Trusty S button and a few queries.

4K views 18 replies 8 participants last post by  bkcm_89 
#1 ·
Hey,

I've not long had my mini and I've not had one before. (Am truly loving it)

Just a few questions, I've searched but not yet really found much info.

When the S button is pressed, my car drives like a dream. However, when it is not it feels sluggish and hesitant and it seems to pogo a bit. Is this normal?

I was considering paying for it to be decoked, as my car has only done 50k is this worth doing? I know it has suffered a lack of oil by the previous owners as it was an advisory on nearly MOT and they had to get the timing chain done because of this.

I'm also getting a grinding noise when going from third to second gear not using the brakes, my understanding is that this is the syncro mesh? Doesn't seem to affect my car too much for now, but if I apply performance mods am I looking at a new gear box?

Thanks if anyone can help.

Becky.


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#2 ·
At 50k miles, your 2007 Cooper S should go like a rocket, irrespective of the 'sport' button. Don't understand how low oil would result in an MOT advisory, and a new timing chain. Also not sure how using the brakes would affect a gear change. more info please!

From what you've said, I wouldn't think about performance mods to this car till you've got the problems ironed out.
 
#3 ·
Thanks for your reply. That's why I thought I'd ask people in the know before I do anything.

The gearbox noise is when I'm shifting down, so when I'm lifting off the clutch to slow rather than when you're slowing down slowly with the brakes and then changing gear. If that makes sense :/

I hope the performance is due to how responsive the car is when the S button is pressed because there is a major difference but again, I've never driven another mini before coming from an Audi 1.8t.

I've done nearly 2000 miles and I've had to put in 1.5l of oil and sometimes when I'm driving a bit faster than I should, I get white smoke. The car has full mini service history, so it's not really been neglected and maybe this is all in my head haha but I thought I'd ask anyway.

Thanks




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#5 ·
White exhaust smoke from a warm engine may be indicative of a coolant leak into the combustion chamber. Check the engine oil and remove the oil filler cap to see if there is any sign of water contamination in the oil (i.e. white gunk under the oil filler cap or evident on the dipstick). If this is the case have the cooling system pressure tested - the problem could be a head gasket. If the gearbox is grinding on downchange, I would suspect a problem with the lubricant type and/or level or a synchromesh problem.
At least to me, a combination of head gasket problems and synchromesh issues would be indicative of likelihood that the car has been driven hard by the previous owner.
If there is a Redline Manual transmission fluid compatible with your car, I would strongly recommend a transmission fluid change as I have found their products to be excellent in my '82 BMW 323i.
 
#6 ·
Thank you for your helpful reply.

I can't find any water in the oil (under the cap or on the dipstick) however I did have to top the coolant up. So I will have a look over the weekend to see if I can trace any other leakages.

I have bought gear box oil from the dealer? Should I get redline instead? I'm just waiting for my mechanic friend to be free to do a gear box oil change. Hopefully soon, as it did that awful grinding noise as I was pulling off of a hill today. Like nails on a chalk board.

I knew the car wasn't perfect when I bought it, it's just finding out what. Ha!

Thanks again.


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#7 ·
Sorry to be the bearer of unhappy tidings but not having water in the oil is unfortunately not an indication that there is not a head gasket problem - it just indicates that rather than coolant leaking into the oil galleries, it could be leaking directly into the combustion chamber where it is being burned off (the cause of the white smoke). Time to get a pressure test on the cooling system and a compression test on the engine - this will give a better indication, but from the sound of it I would say there is a head gasket issue. If the transmission is grinding (other than when changing gear) it is probably more indicative of a chipped gear tooth than a synchro problem and unless the trans fluid is extremely low, a change probably won't cut it. Genuine fluid is fine, my BMW is 34 yrs old so I have to treat it gently, which is the reason I use Redline.
 
#8 ·
Ok. So I will visit my local mini garage on Saturday see if I can get it booked in. Really not having much luck with cars lately and it's string tiring.

The grinding noise is so intermittent, happens one a week if not once a month. Would the noise not be constant if it was a tooth? I will et them to check out the gearbox as well then ha.

The joys. Thank you again for your help.


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#9 ·
If the grinding noise is intermittent I would suspect contaminated gearbox fluid - a chipped tooth would cause the gearbox to click, grind or whine whenever the car was in that particular gear, if the problem is with synchromesh, normally the gears will crunch on downchange (may also do this on changing up, but less common).
 
#10 ·
See it's not a crunch noise more of a scraping grind that is painful to hear.

Also say for example I'm going around a roundabout and I put my foot down a bit, something makes a noise like a motorbike. It's the only noise I can compare it to. It's so weird and I probably sound crazy.

Again, thanks for all the help


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#14 ·
Nope. The motorbike noise only happens when I'm turning right like around a roundabout. Like something is being forced against something else and making something rub.

I've had the bearing checked out and they're all fine, also had a compression test done and that all seemed fine.

The screeching grind noise happened on pull off a few times last week, felt it in my clutch. So maybe something is sticking and then releasing, as it only happens when the clutch is being lifted.

I will jack it up one Eve and have a look at the cv boots and keep an eye on the usage of water and pray my clutch isn't capput. Ha!

Thanks again guys :)


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#16 ·
Not that I can make out.

Been so busy so car is booked in for Tuesday at an independent garage.
I've lifted the car and there is a dry ticking sound coming from under the cv boot. However there is no tears or leaking from that area.
mini have today informed me that it doesn't have an outer cv joint, it has to be the complete driveshaft, which they sell for £400. Is this actually true?

Also if the oil light flicks on, how much to top it up from there? There is always oil on the dip stick and it's so hard to read but apparently I'm doing something wrong.

Thanks.



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#17 ·
It's a cv issue the boots don't necessary need to be split for it to be worn!
They do have outer cv joints that's what that boot is covering and protecting

You can get just the one joint rebuilt but you Dont know how worn the inner one is so it's best to have the entire shaft replaced.

And if the oil light is on it means the oil is critically low which will damage or destroy your engine.

To help you see the oil on the dipstick you can shine a torch at it and the light will cause the oil to glisten this will show you what level it's at!..
 
#18 ·
When my mini was dangerously low on oil it would make a noise similar to what you mentioned above about the 'motorbike sound' when going round a corner. You need to fill up with oil ASAP.

I thought there was oil on the dipstick, but it was just residue from the tubing - when at the proper level it will be completely wet all the way around the dipstick.
 
#19 ·
Thanks for the replies.

I will get the drive shaft checked out anyway and see what they say great info tho thanks.

I feel like such a tool about the oil. It must have been so low when I bought it because I've always scratched my head over it.

I added a litre and a half and now it's clearly visible on the dip stick, in between min and max.

Previous owner apparently didn't know what oil is.


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