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Differences in 2010 and 2011 models?

6K views 11 replies 4 participants last post by  Paul456 
#1 · (Edited)
I was asking about advice for buying a 2010 Mini Cooper S and was told to avoid them and go for a 2011 version with them being different engines and more reliable in a number of ways as well as having things like USB connectivity as standard (something I want in mine).

After looking about it appears as though 2010 is the year where the changes were made (seems the engines have slightly more power - 184bhp - for example) but can't see much about a 2011 change. So is this right? Could it be to do with differing territories? I'm in the UK and they might be in the USA?

Any advice greatly appreciated, it's been a few years since I owned a Mini so I'm slightly out of the loop.



[EDIT]
So after a little more research I see this is to do with the engine replacement from and N14 to an N18. And it seems this was done in march 2010 in the UK and August 2010 in the USA.

So how exactly can I tell which engine a car has in? It seems a bit of a no brained to go for the N18 engine if there isn't much of a price difference.
Is there a way I can use a cars numberplate to find out?
 
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#3 ·
Is there any way of getting a cars vin number from its numberplate? There are a few at various dealers I'm looking at and want to check before making the journey.

I just realised a cars build date is not the same as it's registration date, so guess it being a 60 plate doesn't mean anything.

Thanks for the reply.
 
#8 ·
The whole website struggles to load for me, but will definitely try later, thanks for the help again.

Certainly the N18 has a flat valve cover (can't see plug leads), a rigid plastic air duct a slightly domed air box (I think) Look at 'net pics of the two units; you'll see these most obviously.

cream trim, turbo heat shield etc came later...

Edit: I think I've attached some thumbnails so as to show the N18 valvecover
Ah ok that's a pretty east one to check if I go and see a couple.

Man them engine bays look crammed to the brim.

Not too fussed about the trim, just want a low milage Cooper S that doesn't have a self-destructive engine.
 
#7 · (Edited)
Certainly the N18 has a flat valve cover (can't see plug leads), a rigid plastic air duct a slightly domed air box (I think) Look at 'net pics of the two units; you'll see these most obviously.

cream trim, turbo heat shield etc came later...

Edit: I think I've attached some thumbnails so as to show the N18 valvecover
 

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#9 ·
Erm...I think the N18 EGR system was revised leading to slightly less carbon coking and the timing chain was a 'beefier' BMW version - but the chain tensioner was the same unit that graced the N14...So you're likely to hear some start-up rattle, I fear...some early N18s didn't have the valve cover, either. Usually they had grey interior trim not the later cream.

Also check the driver side of the rear of the sump before you buy. Many N18s were 'service item-ed' to replace a poor oil pressure solenoid valve and gasket that could cause oil wicking into the nearby loom. It seemed to be a bit of a lottery at the time and 'timed out' if owners allowed it.

Another early N18 weakness was a thermostat and sensor mismatch (service item-ed again) that caused the loud second stage fan to continue after switch-off or run continuously in motion. There was sensor relocation that was service item-ed on the later N18s, at the factory, when the sensors became more reliable.

The last N18s had their usb connector placed on the gearstick key shelf which was better to find imo.

Sorry to be a purveyor of doom and hope this helps with your decision...
 
#12 ·
Yeah checked as much as I could remember to do at the time. All seemed pretty solid, couldn't hear any dodgy noises, everything looked about right under the bonnet, entire car was immaculate really.

Just a bit sad to see the MX5 go, but sure as soon as i put the sports mode on I'll be able to get over it.
 
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