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Knocking on the Front - Replaced Drop Links + Bushes

28K views 29 replies 13 participants last post by  Marlow Motors 
#1 ·
Hi everyone,

Wondering if someone can shed some light on the knocking sound I'm getting on my Cooper D.

It started about 6 months ago and I have spent the time since trying to solve it. MINI want £100 just to look and a MINI specialist told me they cant find anything wrong.

So far myself and with advice from various garages I have replaced the rear anti roll bar bushes (just in case the knock was from the back) and I have replaced the front and rear drop links....nothing has solved it, but reading further could it possibly be my top mounts?
I had a look at them this morning and took a pic as they seem to be cracked?

I really hope I can solve this as it's beginning to really bug me now.

Any help or advice would be great.

Harry
 
#3 ·
Beats me when you say the MINI specialist says theres nothing wrong, are they saying its all a figment of your imagination then??
One assumes they have checked everything involved already to come up with that conclusion, theyve looked at the top mounts and didnt see them as a problem? :eeksurprise:
 
#6 ·
I di have a misting Shocker on that side and was wondering if this has any connection to it?
Well now is as good a time as any other to change the shocker. I'd run through the obvious re the knocks, drop links, antiroll bar bushes, ball joints etc. The way I usually test the antiroll bar bushes is by disconnecting the drop links from it. If the noise goes away then you've found the problem.
 
#8 ·
Jack the car up with the one that came with it, remove the road wheel then undo the drop link with a 16mm spanner and allan key. If the allan key just spins then you can use another spanner on the back of the drop link too. Repeat on the other side then take it for a wee drive over the bumps where you heard the knocking. If its still knocking with the drop links disconnected then your problem lies somewhere else
 
#9 ·
They were the first thing replaced by my local garage so there ruled out (£55) So Need to look at the next part to replace. The garage mentioned something abou replacing two other bushings that cost £25 for the pair to see if that is the culprit. But needs a few hours to access and remove them. Has to drop something to get to them from what i remember? Also is car jack safe and high enough for me to work comfortably under?
Forgot too mention. The brake pads needs replacing and ive read that knocking can come from there? Being replaced today so will soon find out!:)
 
#10 ·
The only thing you need to "drop to replace" is the subframe to do the arb bushes which cost £9 for a pair from BMW! Even at that you only need to lower the subframe by about 3" to access the rear bolt holding them in. Every other bush/ ball joint can be replaced in situ including the centre bushes if you have the tool!
 
#14 ·
I've had this problem on my R55 Clubman 2010 for a while now and have a mechanical background. Trouble is when you stress test all the usual suspects (bushes and balljoints) with a lever bar nothing obvious shows up and it's incredibly difficult to replicate the knock when the car is motionless and jacked up. I've changed the track rod ends and drop links (mainly because they were cheap) but this hasn't cured the knock. I had another good look at the car yesterday and found that with both drop links removed I can feel play and movement in the front anti-roll bar via the bushes. With the drop links connected I can't feel this play, even with a pry-bar. I plan to change the front anti roll bar bushes for urethane ones in the next few weeks but it's going to have to go into my mates garage for this as they seem impossible to get at without lowering the subframe. I'm convinced this will cure the knock as I've ruled everything else out and it's the only place I can't feel movement that would translate into a knock on uneven road surfaces.
 
#16 ·
new to the forum im also having this annoying knock well more like a dong from the spring running vmaxx coilovers
and I have changed all the usual bits like every one what I have noticed today tho is that the spring has been moving about in the spring retaining cup at the top of the shock
will be worth a look
 
#17 · (Edited)
Front left definate metal to metal sound when driving..I've recently solved this I replaced the two main antiroll bar bushes on front of mini r56....when completed I noticed the noise. Was still happening the car had all ready been given two brand new front drop links . After closer inspection I found that the antiroll bar drivers side end stop on roll bar needs to be flush up to the rubber bush ... If you then look at the front passenger end stop there is approx 20mm space up to the bushing... The roll bar can wear the paint off and after installing new bushes noticed that the bar can slide in the bushing ...front passenger only needs to slide that 20mm and it then contacts the rear lower arm bushing the donut one that fixes to the bulkhead... To fix I cut the old bushing to 20 mill tapped over the roll bar so stop sits on drivers bush and stuck in with polymer the 20mm cut bush to stop the roll bar sliding over and clunking on that lower arm bush .job done 😁!
 
#18 ·
The stops can be viewed under the rear subframe on the inside of the roll bar bushes it is possible to tap the roll bar upto the drivers bush end stop without taking down the subframe... I later realised the original bushes were not worn out ...just the sliding of the bar in to the lower rear donut creates the noise.
 
#21 ·
Just bought a 2013 r56 diesel and have knocking from the front. After much fiddling around found the front roll bar bush has a bit of play in it. Had to disconnect the drop link and couldn’t get any movement with a pry bar. I guess bows the time to drop the tear of the subframe.
question to the experienced will I be able to undo the bolts for the roll bar with limited clearance. Or does anyone know the price for an experienced Indy garage in Sussex that can do it.
 
#22 ·
no subframe down only way , you will need a 6ft piece of pipe to add to the breaker bar when undoing the 4 bolts,, and if were me would replace the pigs ear bushes ie trailing bushes link below for idea they will be soft by now makes then steer better after,
below link
IMPORTANT THESE ARE SIDED SO ASK VENDOR FOR BOTH SIDES WHEN ORDERING THEM,,, IE THEY ARE DIFFERENT,
 
#23 ·
no subframe down only way , you will need a 6ft piece of pipe to add to the breaker bar when undoing the 4 bolts,, and if were me would replace the pigs ear bushes ie trailing bushes link below for idea they will be soft by now makes then steer better after,
below link
IMPORTANT THESE ARE SIDED SO ASK VENDOR FOR BOTH SIDES WHEN
ORDERING THEM,,, IE THEY ARE DIFFERENT,
great thanks. I was hoping to drop the back end down. Don’t like the thought of them being that tight and yes will do the control arm bushes as well
 
#27 ·
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#28 ·
the undo hammer action is worked out higher over the amounts of hits it gives to force, it will strip threads out of a wheel bolt if not careful with it, 450nm tighten action
 
#30 ·
Hi everyone,

Wondering if someone can shed some light on the knocking sound I'm getting on my Cooper D.

It started about 6 months ago and I have spent the time since trying to solve it. MINI want £100 just to look and a MINI specialist told me they cant find anything wrong.

So far myself and with advice from various garages I have replaced the rear anti roll bar bushes (just in case the knock was from the back) and I have replaced the front and rear drop links....nothing has solved it, but reading further could it possibly be my top mounts?
I had a look at them this morning and took a pic as they seem to be cracked?

I really hope I can solve this as it's beginning to really bug me now.

Any help or advice would be great.

Harry
The best way we have found to see if the D bushes are worn is to stand next to the vehicle, put both hands on the roof just above the door and rock the car from side to side HARD. You will then hear the knocking from the bushes.
 
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