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Old Apr 29th, 2003, 01:38 AM   #1
6f7
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Rear swaybar: MC-->MCS

Todays project: New rear swaybar on my Cooper.

I have a MC and recently picked up a MCS rear swaybar. Has anyone else changed their rear swaybar on a MC? Will the MC swaybar mounts fit the MCS swaybar since the difference in diameter is minimal?
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Old Apr 29th, 2003, 02:14 AM   #2 (permalink)
6f7
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Luckily I got mine for FREE !
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Old Apr 29th, 2003, 04:53 AM   #3 (permalink)
cristo
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I have a MC with SS+ (therefore has the 17mm bar that comes
standard with the MCS). The mounts and bushings are the
same for the 16mm SS and the 17mm SS+ (the bushing just
gets squashed a mite more with the 17mm).
By the way, a 17mm bar should be about 27.4% stiffer than
a 16 mm bar. Good luck and enjoy.

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Old Apr 29th, 2003, 09:56 AM   #4 (permalink)
6f7
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Thanks everyone. The new swaybar is on and it is sweet! The switch was easy with someone else there to help fish out the stock swaybar.
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Old May 28th, 2003, 08:26 AM   #5 (permalink)
sniece
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OK, so my big question is, did you notice a significant difference in the handling? I was considering doing this swap (someone locally has an S bar they've removed)...but even buying it relatively cheaply, I don't know if it will make enough of a difference to be worth it?

Steve

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Old May 30th, 2003, 12:52 AM   #6 (permalink)
6f7
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I was very sceptical when I installed the MCS rear swaybar since the visible difference was very minimal.

I think that the handling has greatly improved. My wife even commented that she did not feel as nervous in the corners and it just "feels better." The car feels very neutral and the understeer has been nearly eliminated.

If your like driving hard in the corners, I think it's worth it. The MCS swaybar is $98 from the dealer and $0 from a friend with leftover parts!
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Old May 30th, 2003, 02:55 AM   #7 (permalink)
StareDownOrion
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I like the sound of that, 6f7, thanks for the update on your switch.

If anyone in SoCal is putting on an after market bar and wants to sell their old one, let me know...I know someone who may want to buy it (hint...it's me).

I suppose this should go in the "Wanted" section, but it's somewhat appropriate to this thread...

---Liam---
*Black and White Mini Cooper
*White Wheels *Sport Package
*Premium Package *CD Navigation *Clear Side Repeaters
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Old May 30th, 2003, 11:40 AM   #8 (permalink)
stryder
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Wow, $98's a good deal even if you have to pay full dealer price. And the handling improves without the super harsh ride. Not a bad deal all in all.

Magic 8-ball was correct. All be in awe of Magic 8 ball.
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Old May 30th, 2003, 06:26 PM   #9 (permalink)
sniece
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Cool. I think I'll probably go with the swap now. I was just waiting until I could find someone who had done it, and sort out if it actually made a difference. The usual jump in swaybar sizing is much larger than that, an increase of ~25% isn't a lot...but real world experience is better than numbers!

Thanks for the input! Now I just have to sort out how to do it!
Steve

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Old May 30th, 2003, 09:57 PM   #10 (permalink)
6f7
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Here's the REAR SWAYBAR HOW-TO that I used. I have a few additional comments that might help.

Step 1. I was concerned about jacking since the MINI lacks any alternate jacking points. I made some wood blocks that I place in the channel just forwards of the actual rear jacking point. That way I could jack up the car and still put jack stands under the official jacking points. I'm not a fan if working under a car not resting on the official jacking points.

Step 3. We did not have to touch the ABS or brake lines or the lower strut bolt.

Step 6. Wrestling out the old swaybar: With one person on each side, move the swaybar up and towards the rear so that it is in the gap between the rear subframe mount (right above the angle iron piece captioned "This is the inner bolt location" in Randy's how-to). Rotate the bar 180 so the ends of the bar point forwards. The bar now simply pulls out with minor negotiation around the wheel arch.

Step 8. I had one person sit behind the car and I guided their foot onto the subframe. From this position they could easily push the subframe forwards and hold it while I started all the bolts.

It will take you around 1 hour your first time. Then your ready to motor.
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Old May 30th, 2003, 10:56 PM   #11 (permalink)
Malc
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I fitted the RDR bar (21mm) a few weeks ago. Started on the soft setting, it made a significant difference. Moved to the hardest setting for AutoX and found it made a hugh difference, 3 sec in 70.

02 Mini Cooper 05/02 BRG/white, Sport seats, Schroth Rally Harness Helix exhaust; AK Monza 16x6.6 wheels;Falken Azenis 215/45 r16 Helix rear sway bar;K-mac camber plates, TMS computer re-code, Green twister intake. Autocrossing in STS

04 MCS 10/03. Pepper White, bog-standard.
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Old May 31st, 2003, 03:39 AM   #12 (permalink)
6f7
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Quote:
Originally posted by Malc
I fitted the RDR bar (21mm) a few weeks ago. Started on the soft setting, it made a significant difference. Moved to the hardest setting for AutoX and found it made a hugh difference, 3 sec in 70.

Did the RDR bar make the car neutral or was it oversteering for the tight autoX turns?
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Old May 31st, 2003, 10:01 AM   #13 (permalink)
Malc
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I think it is terminal neutral. It will severly oversteer if you lift off. Demonstrated this on Sunday with my first full blooded spin. Much less tendency to spin on the weak setting

02 Mini Cooper 05/02 BRG/white, Sport seats, Schroth Rally Harness Helix exhaust; AK Monza 16x6.6 wheels;Falken Azenis 215/45 r16 Helix rear sway bar;K-mac camber plates, TMS computer re-code, Green twister intake. Autocrossing in STS

04 MCS 10/03. Pepper White, bog-standard.
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