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What upholstery and interior trim options are offered?
1st Generation MINI

Seat Upholstery and Interior Panels

_________ UPHOLSTERY __________ PANEL TYPE STYLE COLOR COLOR CODE M-S ADDED DELETED ------------- --------- ------------- ----- ---- --- ------- ------- Cloth Aqua Panther Black Black S7PN 1 1 2004-07 Grey S7PV 1 1 2004-07 Dragon Panther Black Black AKPN 5 1 2004-07 Kaleido Panther Black Black S8PN 2004-07 Grey S8PV 2004-07 Tartan Red Red S8TB 2004-07 Octagon Panther Black Black AHPN 2004-07 Tartan Red Black AHTN 2004-07 Space Grey Black S4PN 2 Grey S4P4 2 2 2003-09 Seven Panther Black Black AMPN 8 1 2005-09 Cloth/Leather Kaleido Panther Black Black S5PN 2004-07 Tartan Red Red S5TB 2004-07 Octagon Panther Black Black FDPN 2 2004-07 Tartan Red Black FDTN 2 2004-07 Red FDTB 2 2004-07 Satellite Panther Black Black S9PN 2 2 2005-09 Grey S9P4 2 2 2003-09 Lapis Blue Black S9LP 2 2 2005-09 Grey S9L4 2 2 2003-09 Sunrise Orange/Blue Blue FEDC 6 2 2004-07 2007-03 Sunrise Laser Blue Blue FEEB 6 2 2007-03 Checkmate Grey Black FGPN 9 2 2005-10 GP Grey Black GPCN 2 2 limited edition Leather Gravity Panther Black Black T6PN 2 Grey T6P4 2 2 2003-09 Lapis Blue Black T6LP 2 Grey T6L4 2 2 2003-09 Dark Blue Blue T6DC 6 2 2004-07 Profile Panther Black Black T5PN 3 Soft Cordoba Beige Beige T3CB Natural Emerald Green Green T2EM 1 2004-07 MC40 Panther Black Black MC4N 2 2 limited edition English Panther Black Black LNPN 9 2 2005-09 Malt Brown Black 7A1N 6 2 2007-03 Recaro Grey Black 4FAN 2 2005-09 GP Panther Black Black GPLN 2 2 limited edition Leatherette Panther Black Black K7PN Grey K7PV 4 2004-07 Grey K7P4 2 2 2003-09 Grey Black K7TN 7 2004-07 Grey K7TV 4 2004-07 NOTE: (1) UPHOLSTERY COLOR refers to seating surface (bolsters are Panther Black except on Sunrise Blue/Orange, Sunrise Laser Blue, Checkmate Grey and Gravity Dark Blue where they are Dark Blue, and MC40 Panther Black where they are Red) (2) PANEL COLOR refers to color of door casings: If color of door casings matches dash top they are Black not Grey! There are two shades of Grey: Silver - MINI One and MINI Cooper [code ###V] Magnesium - MINI Cooper S [code ###4] (3) CODE refers to ordering code for option (4) M-S refers to Model and Seat restrictions: M - 1 = MINI One, MINI Diesel only 2 = MINI Cooper S only 3 = MINI One, MINI Diesel, MINI Cooper only 4 = MINI Cooper Only 5 = MINI One, MINI Diesel, MINI One Convertible only 6 = MINI Convertilbe only 7 = MINI Cooper S, MINI Cooper Convertible, MINI Cooper S Convertible only 8 = MINI One only 9 = MINI Hardtop only S - 1 = Standard only 2 = Sport only 3 = Recaro Sport only (5) Cloth/Leather has cloth seating surfaces and leather bolsters (6) Images > Click here to see how to point to links to swatch images > Click here to see how to point to links to seat images > Click here to contribute an image for this FAQ

Dash and Door Trim

TYPE CODE ADDED DELETED ---------------- ---- ------- ------- Body Color 318 2004-07 Chili Red Liquid Yellow Cool Blue Electric Blue Hyper Blue Hot Orange Pepper White 2007-03 Laser BLue 2007-03 Lightning Blue 2007-03 Silver 427 Anthracite 429 Alloy Patina 463 Faux Wood 477 GP N/A limited edition MC40 N/A limited edition Seven 4AN 2005-09 Park Lane 4AP 2005-09 Checkmate 4AR 2005-10 Sidewalk 7A1 2007-03 NOTE: (1) Availability by model depends on market (2) CODE refers to ordering code for option

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How to remove interior bits
DISCLAIMER:

The information below is based on the account of a MINI2 member. Although MINI2 and the author of this thread believe this information is accurate, using it as a DIY guide is done at your own risk. MINI2 and the author are not responsible for any damage, personal injury, or warranty issues that may arise from the use of this information. Some information below may be specific to model specifications that are unique to certain countries, and may not apply to your model of MINI One, Cooper, or Cooper S.

Do not undertake any DIY project that you are not qualified to perform. If you have questions about this project, you should consult with experienced professionals and/or your MINI dealer before undertaking it. Always follow standard safety guidelines for car repair in performing DIY projects.


Instructions follow for removing the:
  • knee bolster
  • dash downtubes
  • door panels
  • rear seats
  • gearshift knob


Removal of the knee bolster is required to gain access to the upper torx screw on the driver's side dash downtube, or to install the European [driver's side] parcel shelf.

The knee bolster is anchored at the top and hinged on the bottom.

To remove it:
  1. Grab the top edge with both hands.

    The bolster is actually two parts glued together. When you pull on it to remove it, reach your fingers around a little deeper to grab the back portion of it. Otherwise, you may hear a crack as the two parts come unglued.

  2. Pull down sharply keeping the pressure toward the direction of the door in order to prevent the bolster from scratching the downtube when it comes free.

    Putting a couple of strips of masking tape on the downtube will protect it from scratching, and will allow pulling straight or more directly on the pins which hold it in place.

  3. Rotate downward and pull out.

    If re-installing the bolster, start by engaging the left hand side hinge point, then the middle and then flexing it a bit to get the right hand one in.


kishinoa, jlivingood and MiNiGuY


Removal of the dash downtubes is required for changing the head unit or installing the toggle switch panel.

Each dash downtube is screwed to the radio-a/c-toggle-switch cluster. The top of each downtube is covered by the dash center fascia [surrounding the speedometer and two air vents], and the bottom of each is anchored in the center console.

To remove them, use the following tools and instructions:
  • Torx screwdrivers (T40 and T20)
  • #2 Phillips screwdriver
1) Remove the 2 torx screws (T40 or T20) from each downtube:


Accessing the top torx screw where a glovebox or knee bolster is present will require lowering the glovebox door or removing the knee bolster [as described previously].
2) Provide clearance under the dash center fascia for the top of each downtube by either of the following:
Partial removal of the center console (steps 3 - 7)
Partial removal of the dash center fascia (steps 8 - 9)
3) Remove the gearshift surround:
Pull gently straight up so you don't break any of the 4 pins holding it to the center console.

Pull the surround up as far as possible to avoid creasing the leather while you work.


4) Remove the side-mirror adjustment unit:
Reaching through the opening behind the gearshift, depress the two metal prongs and push up from underneath the unit to pop it up.


5) Remove the 2 Phillips-head screws now visible.

6) Remove the Phillips-head screw from the middle of each cupholder.

7) Provide clearance:
Lift up the console to reveal the polystyrene piece under each downtube, and carefully remove each piece, allowing the downtubes to drop down.

Go to step 10
8) Remove the T20 torx screw that secures lower passenger side edge of the dash center fascia near the airbag panel:

9) Provide clearance:
Pop the lower clips of the fascia by grabbing its lower edges and giving a medium sharp tug.

Pull the fascia outward just far enough for the tops of the downtubes to clear.


10) Remove the downtubes:
Angle the downtubes toward you, pulling the tops under the dash center fascia, and lift them out of the center console:


Dom, gazzaman28, jlivingood, MiNiGuY and ToreB


Removal of the door panels is required to fit new front speakers or to fit a chrome door handle to a Cooper or One.

The door panelss are secured to the door frames with four torx screws and a series of clips.

To remove each one, use the following tools and instructions:
  • Small and large flat-head screwdriver
    [wrap the head of the larger one with insulating tape to protect against damage while prying]
  • T30 Torx screwdriver
  1. Remove the tweeter-door-handle surround:

    Using the small flat-head screwdriver, pry off the surround by "attacking" it where the two "circles" join.



  2. Remove the reflector to reveal a hidden torx screw:

    Using the small flat-head screwdriver, pry off the two piece reflector, being careful not to damage any of the three clips.



  3. Remove the T30 torx screw in the reflector hole and the 3 T30 torx screws in the door bezel.

    MINIs built from July 2004 have one of the door bezel torx screws hidden under the bolster on the grab rail:



    • Protect the grab rail from scratching with a cloth or insulating tape.
    • Insert a flat blade tool in from the front of the bolster to depress the tab holding the bolster to the grab rail.



    • Slide the bolster forward to expose the torx screw.

  4. Remove the door panel:

    Using a large flat-head screwdriver and a considerable amount of force, pry off the sides and bottom of the panel, leaving it hanging from the top. Then pull the panel towards you so it bends at the top, and lift it out.

To reinstall the door panels work in reverse order:
  • Have the window wound down so you can check the alignment of the top fixing points.
  • Make sure the door lock button is placed in its proper hole.
GaryM, monsta and space_cadet


Removal of the rear seats is required to install new rear speakers.

To remove them:
  1. Remove the seat bench, by first pulling up sharply at each front corner to release the clips there, and then yanking the whole seat bench out of the rear center clip.
  2. Fold seats backs flat, headrests down.
  3. Remove the 10mm bolt from anchor point between the seats.
  4. Flip the catch plate on the top of the anchor point upwards freeing the seat pivots.
  5. Starting with the left seat (there's a reason for this) gently pull the seat pivot upwards and free of the anchorage point but don't tip the seat upwards more than necessary.
  6. While applying gentle sidewards pressure to the seat, inwards toward the center of the car (pull it from the bottom only level with the outer pivot point), tilt the seat fowards and backwards until it frees itself from its outer fixing point. The pivots have two pegs which pop out from the fixing point in the right tilt position (usually around 45 degree tilt forwards).

    Take care not to move the seat too much any other way but forwards and backwards tilt, or the outer fixing point will break. Try to move the seat only as much it does when fixed in place, only allowing just enough tilt to clear the other seat when it pulls free.
  7. Repeat for the right side.

To reinstall the rear seats work in reverse order:
  • Right seat first, left second. Notice that the left seat automatically shuts the locking latch when you push it home, that's why you remove it first, replace it last.
  • The 10mm bolt should be 10nm torque but hand tight is OK.
  • On replacing the seat bench, pop the two clips at the front first then with your fists together give a fast and sharp blow downwards on the seat just behind the seat belt anchor points. It should click home. If no click is audible just make sure the seat doesn't pull upwards at the rear.

    NOTE:

    The rear seat bench on 2003 models has a clip at each rear corner and is hooked in the middle at the back requiring at slightly different approach for removal and replacement.
MiNiGuY


Removal of the gearshift know is required to fit an aftermarket knob.

The gearshift is notched instead of threaded, so the knob comes off by pulling HARD straight up rather than by unscrewing.



To reinstall the knob, align it properly and then push down, snapping it into place.

BruceK

Contact DIY Author


How to change a head unit
DISCLAIMER:

The information below is based on the account of a MINI2 member. Although MINI2 and the author of this thread believe this information is accurate, using it as a DIY guide is done at your own risk. MINI2 and the author are not responsible for any damage, personal injury, or warranty issues that may arise from the use of this information. Some information below may be specific to model specifications that are unique to certain countries, and may not apply to your model of MINI One, Cooper, or Cooper S.

Do not undertake any DIY project that you are not qualified to perform. If you have questions about this project, you should consult with experienced professionals and/or your MINI dealer before undertaking it. Always follow standard safety guidelines for car repair in performing DIY projects.


Removing the old head unit and replacing with a new or aftermarket one looks difficult, but is quite simple - if a little time consuming.

Follow these instructions:
  1. Remove dash downtubes
    Refer to DIY on removing interior bits for instructions.
  2. Remove screws holding in stereo
    Remove the four screws that hold in the standard head unit. Pull the head unit out, and remove the wires from the back.


  3. Insert fascia adapter
    Assuming you are replacing the unit with an aftermarket DIN sized one, you will need a fascia adapter available from Autoleads (pn FP-06-05). Insert this into the slot.
  4. Attach wiring adapter
    Attach the appropriate wiring adapter for the year of MINI you have and the head unit you are using. The store that sold you your new unit should be able to assist with what adapter you need.
  5. Slide in the cage
    Slide in the cage for your head unit. Push the metal pins out to secure it in.
  6. Insert new head unit
    Attach the wires to your new head unit and insert it into the cage. Bend the pins on the cage if the fit is not as secure as it could be.
  7. Refit dash downtubes
Additional information

Head Unit Pin Diagram for pre-2003 models:




GaryM


Contact DIY Author

How to fit chrome interior door handles to a Cooper or One

DISCLAIMER:

The information below is based on the account of a MINI2 member. Although MINI2 and the author of this thread believe this information is accurate, using it as a DIY guide is done at your own risk. MINI2 and the author are not responsible for any damage, personal injury, or warranty issues that may arise from the use of this information. Some information below may be specific to model specifications that are unique to certain countries, and may not apply to your model of MINI One, Cooper, or Cooper S.

Do not undertake any DIY project that you are not qualified to perform. If you have questions about this project, you should consult with experienced professionals and/or your MINI dealer before undertaking it. Always follow standard safety guidelines for car repair in performing DIY projects.


Quite easy!

The part numbers required are:

51 41 4 318 837
51 41 4 318 838

The UK price is £11.92 +VAT each - bit expensive maybe but hey, they're chrome!! :D

Right, here goes:

1) Remove the door panel as described in the DIY on removing interior bits.

This leaves you with the door being naked:

2) Place a small screwdriver into the slot at the top of the tweeter housing. Gently prise the tweeter out of it's housing

3) Unplug the cable from the tweeter

4) Remove the three smaller torx screws from the handle housing

5) Pull the housing away from the door so that the cover of the door release cable slides out of the housing. Turn the housing so that the cable is able to slide out of the retaining bracket.

6) Refit the new chrome handle using the reverse of step 5

7) Screw the new housing back into the door and refit the tweeter

8) Refit the door panel and replace the torx screws.

9) Refit the silver trim around the door handle housing.

Back of the silver trim that covers the tweeter:

10) Replace the door reflector and ...

11) Stand back and admire :D

mmmmmm

Another pic




Contact DIY Author


How to fit factory alloy pedals to older models
DISCLAIMER:

The information below is based on the account of a MINI2 member. Although MINI2 and the author of this thread believe this information is accurate, using it as a DIY guide is done at your own risk. MINI2 and the author are not responsible for any damage, personal injury, or warranty issues that may arise from the use of this information. Some information below may be specific to model specifications that are unique to certain countries, and may not apply to your model of MINI One, Cooper, or Cooper S.

Do not undertake any DIY project that you are not qualified to perform. If you have questions about this project, you should consult with experienced professionals and/or your MINI dealer before undertaking it. Always follow standard safety guidelines for car repair in performing DIY projects.


Starting with 2002 week 48 builds, 'S' models were fitted with accelerator, brake and clutch pedals to match the existing alloy dead pedal.

The directions and parts required for replacing earlier model rubber pedals with factory alloy pedals are detailed below.

Installing the brake and clutch pedal covers

Parts required:

35 20 6 758 751 - pedal cover (2 required) [part number same as old rubber cover]

As the picture below illustrates, the side and bottom edges of the backside of the pedal cover form a "horseshoe". At the open end of this "horseshoe" is a "lip" with MINI embossed on it.

Slide the "lip" of the pedal cover over the top edge of the pedal and then work your way down wrapping the "horseshoe" edges around the sides and bottom of the pedal.



Removing the accelerator pedal

NOTE:

Before starting, a MINI technician would read out fault memory of EMS/DME control unit, check stored fault messages, rectify faults and clear fault memory.


Make sure the ignition is off.

Press down the retaining tab (1) and remove the pedal from the adaptor plate by sliding it to the left.

Detach the plug connector (2).



Removing the adaptor plate

Remove the mounting screw (1).

Press both retaining tabs (2).

Remove the adaptor plate.



Installing the new accelerator pedal assembly

Parts required:

35 41 6 758 942 - accelerator pedal
35 40 0 141 446 - adaptor plate

Perform the previous two steps is reverse order.

WARNING:

Do not reuse the adaptor plate. The retaining clips on the old part may be damaged and it may not hold the accelerator pedal in place causing risk of injury!


NOTE:

After finishing, a MINI technician would read out fault memory of EMS/DME control unit, check stored fault messages, rectify faults and clear fault memory.


Here is the result of 30 minutes work by kfmuller:



Another Approach

Rather than replacing the expensive accelerator pedal assembly, Bad Ess chose to purchase and cannabalize the much cheaper dead pedal assembly [51 47 7 066 576], "gluing" the alloy pedal portion to the rubber accelerator pedal, after trimming:
  1. a projection on the back of the dead pedal to make it lay flat,
  2. the top of the accelerator pedal to compensate for the shorter height of the dead pedal.
This appoach results in a symetrical look with an accelerator pedal that is slightly wider:




Contact DIY Author

How to retro fit the on-board computer

DISCLAIMER:

The information below is based on the account of a MINI2 member. Although MINI2 and the author of this thread believe this information is accurate, using it as a DIY guide is done at your own risk. MINI2 and the author are not responsible for any damage, personal injury, or warranty issues that may arise from the use of this information. Some information below may be specific to model specifications that are unique to certain countries, and may not apply to your model of MINI One, Cooper, or Cooper S.

Do not undertake any DIY project that you are not qualified to perform. If you have questions about this project, you should consult with experienced professionals and/or your MINI dealer before undertaking it. Always follow standard safety guidelines for car repair in performing DIY projects.


There are instructions for retrofitting the OEM on-board computer (OBC), which involve replacing the turn-indicator and high-low-beam stalk with one containing a button for cycling through the OBC displays.

I've developed an alternative approach, using an aftermarket OBC control button next to the side-mirror adjustment control, which is easier to install and cheaper. Cost me under £10 to fit! This compares to the £60 - £100 in parts for the OEM approach. The instructions for this low-cost approach can be found here.

[click for free download of Adobe Acrobat Reader required to read pdf files]


Contact DIY Author


How to fit a mobile phone handsfree kit
DISCLAIMER:

The information below is based on the account of a MINI2 member. Although MINI2 and the author of this thread believe this information is accurate, using it as a DIY guide is done at your own risk. MINI2 and the author are not responsible for any damage, personal injury, or warranty issues that may arise from the use of this information. Some information below may be specific to model specifications that are unique to certain countries, and may not apply to your model of MINI One, Cooper, or Cooper S.

Do not undertake any DIY project that you are not qualified to perform. If you have questions about this project, you should consult with experienced professionals and/or your MINI dealer before undertaking it. Always follow standard safety guidelines for car repair in performing DIY projects.


The following describes how to connect a mobile phone handsfree kit to the OEM head unit, such that when in use, the radio or CD automatically mutes, sound comes from the front speakers and "PHONE" appears in the head unit display.

The handsfree used in this guide is a Siemens Car Kit Comfort, but it should apply to several types. The only requirements is speaker and mute output signals.


Head Unit Removal:
  • Remove the dash downtubes:

    Refer to DIY on removing interior bits for instructions.
  • Remove the four Torx-20 screws securing the head unit and take it out:


  • Disconnect the head unit wiring harness:

Siemens Handsfree Unit to OEM Head Unit Connection:
  • Modify two pins in a "normal" DIN harness for insertion into the head unit, by cutting two of the "lips" and bending the other two inward:



    [These can be bought at most car stereo dealers]
  • Remove pin lock on harness and insert the pins into slot positions 10 and 11 (marked in red) in head unit wiring harness:



    [Complete pin diagram for head unit here]
  • Make harness insert using a stock 12-pin, 2.54mm spaced connector and plasticard or similar and insert:


  • Connect handsfree as shown:



    [Modified with transistor to obtain "Phone" active-high signal]
  • Place handsfree control unit as shown:


  • Place handsfree microphone in roof by the clock, and route its cable to the handsfree control unit:

    Lift the lining slightly along the windscreen with a finger or a screwdriver to make room for the cable. Pull off the A-pillar cover enough to route the cable down and then under the glovebox. Be careful not to restrict the airbag under the A-pillar cover with the cable.

Homemade Phone Holder Fitment:
  • Make Tore's Phone Holder and pre-drill holes for your specific phone hardware:


  • Apply tape or transparent adhesive plastic to dashboard leg to avoid scratches and mount the Phone Holder to the two head unit Torx-20 screws and fit the leg. A bit tight!

My finished installation (note the "PHONE" text in the head unit display):




Good luck, and best regards from Tore

[Instructions for fitting a Siemens Handsfree Kit with an external speaker are available here]


Contact DIY Author


How to install aux cable in panel below toggle switches
DISCLAIMER:

The information below is based on the account of a MINI2 member. Although MINI2 and the author of this thread believe this information is accurate, using it as a DIY guide is done at your own risk. MINI2 and the author are not responsible for any damage, personal injury, or warranty issues that may arise from the use of this information. Some information below may be specific to model specifications that are unique to certain countries, and may not apply to your model of MINI One, Cooper, or Cooper S.

Do not undertake any DIY project that you are not qualified to perform. If you have questions about this project, you should consult with experienced professionals and/or your MINI dealer before undertaking it. Always follow standard safety guidelines for car repair in performing DIY projects.


I got my aux cable kit installed and mounted the plug underneath the toggle switch set in the removable acess panel (like a couple of others here have done). There are some good walkthroughs of the install but none were quite complete for my install so I thought I would post some pics in case anyone else might find them usefull.

I have a 2003 Cooper S with the standard factory head unit (not HK) - No nav - No CD Changer. I am using my aux plug for my new ipod.

The install is as easy as everyone says. Do it yourself and dont bother paying your dealer for the job.

A couple of things I noticed about the install:
  1. If you have a left-hand drive car it is VERY easy to just remove the bolster under the steering column and plug the cable in (provided your head unit qualifies and you have a spot to plug into). I read a few posts where people where skeptical about being able to reach behind the head unit, but I found that there is plent of room and my hands are pretty average sized.
  2. I did not have a set of metric drill bits and therefore did not use the sizes recomended in the instructions. I initially drilled the hole for the jack end the same size as the hole in the faceplate. The threaded end of the jack is just barely long enough to fit through both the plastic of the access panel and the face plate. I ended up redrilling the hole and securing the end of the jack to just the faceplate. I suspect if I used the bit size in the instructions this would have been obvious.
OK so heres the process:


Here is what comes in the kit:
  • 1 Cable
  • 1 Faceplate
  • 2 Small Philips head screws
  • 3 Zip ties
  • 1 Nut for the threaded end of the jack
  • 1 set of instructions

For right-hand drive cars remove the glove box as described here to gain access to the back of the head unit.


Start by removing the bolster underneat the steering column. As its been described by others here just give it a good tug and the 2 prongs will pop out from thier clips. This will give you access behind the head unit.



If you have driving lamps installed then be carefull not to yank out the wiring for your switch.



There is plenty of room to reach behind the head unit. You can feel a rather large empty spot on the bottom drivers side (the same side as the volume control knob). This is where the aux cable plugs in with the clip to the top. Be sure to push it in until the clip clicks into place.



To remove the panel underneath the toggle set you just remove the torx screw in the center and press the two clips at the top. Its a tight squeeze to get the panel out from behind the down tubes but fortunately the panel is pretty flexible. I went out the side behind the down tubes, a little coaxing is all thats required.



Here is the panel entirely removed.



Use the faceplate to mark your holes before drilling. Drill small starter holes for the mounting screws. Mount the plate. (this is where I ended up redrilling the center hole so the threaded end passed through the plastic and secured to the plate - check your hole sizes before you re-install your panel).



Fish the jack end of the cable down through to the spot where the panel has been removed. I found that there is not much room behind the head unit but there is plenty of room to the side. Once you have the jack end through, plug the cable into its home on the back of the head unit until it clicks(volume control side bottom on late 03 standard boost head units without nav).



Once the cable is in place I would recomend testing the cable to be sure everything works before you put it all back together:
  • connect the ipod to the jack with a male to male stereo headphone jack cable
  • press the mode button on your head until the display reads "AUX"
  • turn on your ipod


If everything works, secure the jack end of the cable to the faceplate on the panel with the nut provided in the kit. Then replace the panel. The wire coming out the back of the jack is pretty stiff for about 2 inches or so. Be carefull to give it enought room when coaxing your panel back into place. Once the panel is in place wind up the slack at the top near the head unit and zip tie it. Then the excess cable can be slipped down next to the head unit. Finally replace the bolster under the steering colum.



Here what the jack looks like finished.


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How to show RPM, Fuel Level, Speed and more on your Odometer Digital Display

DISCLAIMER:

The information below is based on the account of a MINI2 member. Although MINI2 and the author of this thread believe this information is accurate, using it as a DIY guide is done at your own risk. MINI2 and the author are not responsible for any damage, personal injury, or warranty issues that may arise from the use of this information. Some information below may be specific to model specifications that are unique to certain countries, and may not apply to your model of MINI One, Cooper, or Cooper S.

Do not undertake any DIY project that you are not qualified to perform. If you have questions about this project, you should consult with experienced professionals and/or your MINI dealer before undertaking it. Always follow standard safety guidelines for car repair in performing DIY projects.


Seeing as I mentioned this in another thread elsewhere on MINI2, here's a quick how-to on getting a bit more information from your MINI's computer.

The information displays in place of your mileometer, so you DO NOT have to have the MINI OBC/Trip Computer option to see this.

A complete list of functions is below, this example is how to get into the menu number '7'.

  1. With the key in the ignition, but in the off position, press and hold down the odometer reset button, while holding the button down, switch the key in the ignition to position 1.

  2. The screen will say 'Test' and a number.

  3. Scroll through, (pressing reset button) through to test 19 and wait a moment.

  4. Wait and the message will say "log i-off" then "log i-on" and back to "log i-off" again. When "log i-off" appears, press again. You are now in the system. (Woooo)

  5. You can (if you wish) start the ignition any time from now.

  6. Scroll through to test 7.0 (or whichever from the list below) and wait a moment, after a pause you will enter the test 7.* range of information.

  7. You can scroll through now (7.1,7.2,7.3 etc.) using the reset button.

  8. You can exit each menu by pressing, holding for a few seconds, then releasing the reset button.

  9. To leave the system scroll to 19 and leave it for a few moments.
    Switching off the ignition also exits the system.
Test:

1.0 Chassis number
1.1 Kilometer count
1.2 Parts number
1.3 Coding-, Diagnostic- and Bus-index
1.4 Production Date (Calender week/year)
1.5 Hard- and Software status
1.6 Injectorstatus, Cylinder count, Engine factor.

2.0 Combisystem Test

3.0 Service intervall counter

4.0 Actual fuel consumption in l/100km. eg.0154 = 15,4 liters/100kms.
4.1 Consumption in liters/100kms.

5.0 Distance consumption in l/100kms.
5.1 Actual rest distance with available fuel in Kms.

6.0 Actual amount of fuel in tank. eg. 123321 =12,3liters left 32,1 liters right
6.1 Total amount of fuel in tank.
6.2 Show value of Fuel guage. 1= both senders OK, 2= sender failure, 3=ti signal unplausible (no reading)

7.0 Actual coolant temp.
7.1 Actual outside temp.
7.2 Actual engine revs.
7.3 Actual speed

8.0 Hexadecimal readings of menu 7.0 to 7.3

9.0 Actual on board voltage (Battery)

10.0 Land codes

11.0 Unit codes

12.0 No funktion

13.0 Gong test

14.0 - 14.4 On board diagnostic codes. eg 000000 = no failures

15.0 - 18.0 No funktion

19.0 On/Off for Test menu.

20.0 Correction factor for Fuel consumption
Formula for correction:
Shown consumption x 1000 / user defined consumption
Push the trip reset button to begin the correction. Numbers count up from 0-9, when correct number shows push trip reset button.

20.1 Sets 10ths. for consumption factor
20.2 Sets 100ths. and 1000ths. for consumption factor
20.3 Saves the new consumption factor and shows new value

21.0 Software reset. (Same as disconnecting battery)

Notes:

I have not been able to get speed into MPH, if you can update me with how to do this (if it's possible), then feel free to do so.

Your MINI's computer may give more or less information than stated above.


minimarkcs for the complete list of functions, translated from German and typed by hand!


Contact DIY Author


How to remove a 5-piece dash
DISCLAIMER:

The information below is based on the account of a MINI2 member. Although MINI2 and the author of this thread believe this information is accurate, using it as a DIY guide is done at your own risk. MINI2 and the author are not responsible for any damage, personal injury, or warranty issues that may arise from the use of this information. Some information below may be specific to model specifications that are unique to certain countries, and may not apply to your model of MINI One, Cooper, or Cooper S.

Do not undertake any DIY project that you are not qualified to perform. If you have questions about this project, you should consult with experienced professionals and/or your MINI dealer before undertaking it. Always follow standard safety guidelines for car repair in performing DIY projects.

Tools Needed:
  • Socket Ratchet & Extension Bar
  • 10mm Socket
  • Flat Head Screwdriver
  • Phillips Screwdriver
  • T20 Torx Bit / Screwdriver
Time Required: around 45 minutes depending on how confident you are
  1. Disconnect the Battery
    This is important as you are removing parts that are close to the airbag.
  2. Remove Side Covers
    Remove the covers in the door openings, by using a small flat head to gently prise the cover open. It should pop off fairly easy but be careful not to break the clips or mark your interior.


  3. Remove Dash Top
    Remove the 4 T20 Torx screws that hold the dash top in place. There are two of these per side as highlighted below:



    The dash is now loose and will lift up and pull away. Store the dash top in a safe place.
  4. Remove All T20 Torx Screws
    Each piece of the dash is attached via T20 torx screws, the left and right hand vents have 1 screw each, Remove these.



    The airbag cover has 6 holding it in place, 3 underneath the cover and 3 at the top. Remove these.



    The vents/speedometer surround has 2 screws, one at either end of the surround (shown removed below). Remove these.


  5. Remove Retaining Bar
    Now the dash top and all screws removed you will see 2 straps attached to the airbag cover that are secured on to a metal bar, these straps keep the airbag cover in place on airbag deployment so the cover does not hit the passenger.



    Using the ratchet+extension and 10mm socket remove the 2 bolts on the retaining bar. On mine there is some stickers wrapped on to the straps am not sure if these are for a tamper proof purpose or not but I managed to peel mine back with out much damage.

    Now carefully slide the bar out free from the straps and place to one side.
  6. Remove Airbag Cover
    Now is the time to remove the airbag cover, this is quiet tricky and very important that you be careful not to pull to hard, if you hear any clicks then that’s the small tabs inside the cover breaking.

    Firstly pull the cover up from the bottom, if you look were the 3 upper screw’s were attached you can see the tab with the green plastic bits on is part of the cover also and needs to be lifted out carefully from behind there.

    The airbag itself is left in place and is covered in a card compartment so be careful not to damage that at all, do not interfere with the airbag.

    Once the cover is lifting up you should be able to maneuver it out as you see fit but be very careful.

    Now the airbag cover is out, place this to one side and be very careful not to break any clips inside (take a look so you no what breaks upon airbag deployment)

    To remove the steering wheel cowl and right hand air vent you need to remove the knee bolster, please click here for instructions on how to do this.
  7. Left & Right Hand Vents.
    Now pull on the left hand vent which should just pop out and place to one side. Repeat on the other side.
  8. Remove Speedometer Surround
    The screws are out so its just a simple job of lifting up one of the tabs with a flat head screwdriver as picture below:



    Be careful not to break this tab, the panel should now just fully unclip quiet easily.
  9. Remove Steering Cowl
    On this step you need to remove the rev counter as part of the rubber surround on the cowl goes underneath this. Undo the 2 Philips screws at the back of the rev counter, unclip the wire harness and then you will see the rubber strip that needs to be lifted over the rev counter support.

    Then just pull on all 4 corners and it will unclip.

Replace everything in the following order:
  1. Airbag Cover
    Again be very careful not to break any clips or damage the airbag compartment.

    Feed the retaining bar back through the straps and fit the 2 x 10mm bolts.
  2. Speedometer Surround
    This will just pop straight back in place.
  3. Steering Cowl
    Make sure you put the rubber strip back under the rev counter support then again this simply pops back in place.

    Replace the wire harness and the 2 Philips screws on the rev counter.
  4. Left & Right Hand Vents
    Pops these back in place and then replace all Torx screws.
  5. Replace the dash top and 4 T20 Torx screws and then replace side covers.

Contact DIY Author

How to fit OEM chrome line interior into a pre-2005 model

To begin with, I suggest you get your hands in there, and remove the speedo and other trim parts!
This first section is how I achieved this.

The "step" name of the photos doesn't mean they're a clear "step" in the procedure, but it just hopefully helps you follow through in the correct order.

(Photos 1 to 5) Firstly, open the door and remove the dash end cover. You can stick a screwdriver or similar into the lower section (there's an indent) and you remove the forward part of the cover. The rear is "hinged" so once you've unclipped it from the front, pull forward/out to remove. Do this on both sides of the car/dash.

Put the steering column in it's lowest position. Then pull the dash rail forward and upward to remove it. Get it out of the car, it's big and most likely will get on your way otherwise.

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(Photo 6) At this stage I removed the other trim pieces from the centre section. The vent covers twist, the warning and dimmer covers pull.

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(Photos 7 to 8b) You might want to take the chance to stuff cardboard or other foam stuff in any rattly parts of your dash at this stage, if you have any. Remove the two torx t-20 bolts from the top "lip" of the centre piece, and the one torx t-20 screw from below the centre piece. If you have a glovebox, it might cover the screw beneath. Also, some cars only have one screw here, some have none, some have two (one either side).

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(Photos 9 to 11) As long as you've removed the screws above, everything now is just clamped into place. Pull the dash centre section out, starting from the bottom. You have to be firm, but be aware of scratching other dash panels etc! You may find the dash "cover" (silver, alloy etc.) might come off of the backing plate, just keep going, it's the plate you need off!

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(Photos 12 to 13a) The speedo ring just pulls off, you might want to "squeeze" the bottom clip, but I found it just popped out anyway. Some bits have glue on them, but it's not a problem, it's not really going to cause any problem removing the ring, and if it does, you can peel it off/back with a nail easily.

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(Photo 14) This shows the clip at the bottom of the ring.

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(Photos 15 to 17) These show you bits of dash etc with the ring removed, other parts replaced. You can fit the new replacement speedo ring with everything together, it just snaps in place.

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The next part I pulled off was the front ashtray/cupholder surrounds. Remove the ashtray (if you have one) and simply pull the ring off with your hands.
They are held in by a number of tabs. You need to use the rubber from the old holder in the new chrome piece, it just pulls out and pushes in the new piece. The chrome piece just snaps back in place.

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Next up I did the gear shift ring. I did this by removing the old ring from my gaiter, although the new kit comes with a black fake leather gaiter anyway. It's easier to use your own, it just clips off, clips on.
There are several clips (highlighted in the pics below) that need to be released, then clamp the new chrome section over the grey plastic ring that you're left with.
When you put it back, there is one "spike" larger than the others, so you have to put the ring on the right way around, make a note of this when you pull it off.
The ring just pulls out by hand, it's held in by clips, much like the cupholders.

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Next is the speedo (yay!)
Hard to take off, very easy to replace. Just push it on, make sure the clips at the base are in line.
The air vents just twist off (clockwise) and the new ones will twist on.

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The dimmer and hazard warning covers pull off, and the new ones push on. One was quite tough to push into place.
Then you have a nice sparkly centre piece.

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The handbrake kit comprises of three parts - the grip with back cap attached (two parts together, simply unclip and replace grip with your own if you have a leather or other custom grip) and the front cap. Shown in first photo below.
First thing to do is to get the front cap off. This is held in place by 3 clips - 2 together on one side and a single clip on the other (picture 2 below). On my car the single clip came away very easily, some will have to depress the two clips together by carefully inserting a SMALL flat head screw driver. The cap then comes off easily. (picture 3)
Next you need to remove the cloth gaitor from the back cap. Up to you how you do this but it is fairly fragile - this can be gently eased it off - again with the screw driver. (pic 4)
Then you remove the grip as one piece. This is held by a clip at the front and on top. Again this needs to be gently prized upwards with the aid of the screw dirver. (pic 5)
Next you need to remove the cloth gaitor from the back cap. Up to you how you do this but it is fairly fragile - I gently eased it off - again with the screw driver. (pic 4)
Then you remove the grip as one piece. This is held by a clip at the front and on top. Again this needs to be gently prized upwards with the aid of the screw dirver. (pic 5)

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Fitting the new one is a simple reversal of the process.
End result looks good and in all it only takes a few minutes.

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Next up the rev counter (speedo Oz). This is the tricky bit.
This is for reference only as this comes from MINI as a complete part!
First off, pull the steering down to allow space and undo the two torx t-25 screws BE CAREFUL - the spacers can fall off and be a right pain in the behind to find again!
Then, loosen things up and pull things free. The plastic cover piece over the wires will come free, and you get a bit of space. Unplug the unit and pull it free.
Undo the two philips screws on the back of the unit (no photo, sorry). Then remove the sticker (if you've got one) carefully, and you can see a clip. Push that clip in and remove the front from the back of the unit.
Now the unit is in two pieces, you can unclip the silver trim piece, and clip the new chrome piece in place.
Not too tricky, but it's quite long winded to replace a bit of trim!

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That's the complete installation



Contributor: MiniSooperCooper - Handbrake Section inc. Photos


Contact DIY Author


How to fit a locking glove box in older models
DISCLAIMER:

The information below is based on the account of a MINI2 member. Although MINI2 and the author of this thread believe this information is accurate, using it as a DIY guide is done at your own risk. MINI2 and the author are not responsible for any damage, personal injury, or warranty issues that may arise from the use of this information. Some information below may be specific to model specifications that are unique to certain countries, and may not apply to your model of MINI One, Cooper, or Cooper S.

Do not undertake any DIY project that you are not qualified to perform. If you have questions about this project, you should consult with experienced professionals and/or your MINI dealer before undertaking it. Always follow standard safety guidelines for car repair in performing DIY projects.


So, you'd like the convenience and added security of a locking glove box in your MINI? No problem! Just order the following parts:

51-16-6-959-970 - Glovebox

51-16-6-133-604 - Locking Cylinder

Once you've got those, and an hour or so of free time, here's what you do:
































Contact DIY Author

How to fit a 'no holes' dash mount bracket

I've sold my ipod cradle and no-holes dashmount bracket because my ipod now lives in the glove box.

I removed it today and thought some of you might find it useful if I photographed the process for those of you who want to install one.
These brackets hold phone holders, ipod cradles, sat navs etc and they're really neat and dead useful.

(Because I was removing the bracket and not fitting it, i just reversed the picture order which is why you'll see the bracket fitted halfway thru!)

Fitting an aftermarket headunit requires basically the same process carried out on both sides if anyone fancies tackling that job!

THE FOLLOWING WAS CARRIED OUT ON A 2002 MINI



Remove the screw at the base of each cup holder...



Pull out the mirror adjuster (this may require a little force) and remove the two screws hiding under it...



Becareful not to lose these little clips. They sometimes fall of the mirror adjuster when you remove it but a magnetic screwdriver will retreive the little blighters!



Undo the two Torx-head screws in the downtube...



The entire centre console will lift up now allowing a lot more movement and a bit of jiggling around will release the downtube so you can gain access to....



....the 2 left hand screws holding your headunit in (or holding the fascia adaptor in the case of an aftermarket head unit)



Fit the bracket under the screws, and re-fit everything back together.



Hey presto!

This took me under fifteen minutes and is really easy. And yes, my car does need valeting!

Hope this is handy for someone!

Simon


 
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