Convertible roof problem. - Page 2 - MINI Cooper Forum

First Generation Faults & Fixes MINI faults and fixes 2001 - 2006

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post #16 of 23 (permalink) Old Oct 17th, 2015, 08:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anytzs View Post
I disconnected the battery and the top stoped working!! It only opens the sunroof! Please help!!!!
I've not owned a first generation convertible but I believe the roof of the second generation convertible is very similar and on one of those I would suspect that you have also moved the rear parcel shelf (while cleaning, maybe?) and that is what is stopping the roof from going past the sunroof position.

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post #17 of 23 (permalink) Old Mar 17th, 2016, 08:18 PM
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I have a 2005 mini cooper s convertible and my top has stopped working for like the 5th time! I push the button once & sunroof opens...i push it a second time & all i get is a flashing red light, wont open or go down. I have paid over $1000 & have had it in the shop several times for adjustment & they always say nothing is wrong with it. Works just fine for the dealer...i get it
back & doesnt work. Any advise??

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post #18 of 23 (permalink) Old Mar 18th, 2016, 05:45 PM
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When you push the button for the second time try pushing upwards on the central plastic bar above your head - might just be it needs a gentle help on its way. If that does work, then get some copper grease into all the hinges and brackets. Mine did this last year and has been fine ever since. Presuming that you have checked that the boot shelf is correctly in place?
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post #19 of 23 (permalink) Old Apr 7th, 2017, 02:23 PM
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Does anyone else have an issue with the plastic trim covering the mechanism falling off when you open the roof. Third one replaced by mini and still happening
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post #20 of 23 (permalink) Old Aug 20th, 2017, 11:38 AM
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Hello,
I followed the series of excellent videos Part 1 to Part 4 on You Tube to repair a roof that was only opening on one side. Unfortunately I had to cut off the end of the cable and cut the helix back a bit as the end of the cable was in such a poor state. I then JB welded the cable to the mechanism. I hoped this would not affect things but the roof now pulls back to the sunroof position on both sides so the cable works to here. On the second press of the button the windows go down and the front clamps unlock, the roof goes back a fraction more then I get the dreaded red flashing light on the button and nothing else happens. I have checked the micro switches in the boot both for the lever and the parcel shelf and they both seem to be pressed as required as it the boot / trunk closed switch. All the fuses seem OK and the rear hydraulic motor does seem to do its thing on closure, which only happens once I have switched the ignition off and on again. I also disconnected the battery completely for about a minute to try to reset any fault codes. Not sure if it actually does this. Do you have any ideas what might still be wrong. Have I, by shortening the cable created a problem at the other end? When you look at the posts for the videos lots of people have the same problem and the video never shows the roof coming fully open so I am not sure whether the chap has the same problem or not. Is there some mechanism / switch at the far end of the cable that has to be pushed that the shorter cable is not reaching and so the second stage is thinking it's not completed its first stage retraction. Do fault codes need resetting having repaired the cable. Getting a bit desperate (and it's such a shame as the cable now seems to be doing its job great, thanks to the video chap) so any help would be really appreciated. Thank you.
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post #21 of 23 (permalink) Old Nov 20th, 2017, 07:31 AM
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Dear JoeBrock, I could have written your post word for word. Precisely the same situation after precisely the same fix. I personally don't think the cable shortening has a bearing. It appears that it is a sensor issue. I can attach an image of the 9 sensors if you haven't yet got a fix. I'm stuck at your stage...did you find a solution??
best regards, Chris
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post #22 of 23 (permalink) Old Nov 20th, 2017, 05:51 PM
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Dear JoeBrock, I've learnt today that even a small amount of cable shortening on the driver's side latch end (as mentioned in the 4 part videos) means that the other end is then too far from the LAN sensor to trigger the mechanism to proceed to operate the hydraulics. I'm guessing this isn't the news you were hoping for. Sorry. I'm in the same place as you.
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post #23 of 23 (permalink) Old Apr 24th, 2019, 11:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bompa View Post
my cooper convertable roof quit working and a mehcanic replaced a fuse to get it going again. He replaced a 5 amp fuse with a 10 amp fuse which I later read is not good to do. I'm on a road trip and it quit again. The problem is I'm not sure what fuse he replaced and their is no cover over the fuses to identify what is what and no skematics to read where I might replace this fuse. Short of paying a mehcanic big money to replace a simple fuse, How does one figure out which one it is.
Hi
Safety message on the fuse. The fuse carries the same current as the wiring. As the wiring gets hot so the fuse gets hot like if the motor has jammed because the roof mechanism has jammed.. The fuse is designed to be the weak link and breaks first. If you double the size of the fuse then the wiring becomes the weak link and will go into meltdown usually in the middle of a wiring loom. Time to find a qualified mechanic!
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