How to replace a blown bulb in the heater control panel - MINI Cooper Forum

First Generation Faults & Fixes MINI faults and fixes 2001 - 2006

 4Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Rate Thread
post #1 of 27 (permalink) Old Aug 16th, 2007, 10:25 PM Thread Starter
MINI2 Master
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Gloucester
Local Time: 01:31 PM
Posts: 991
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)

View oldnell's Solid Black & Body Color 1st Gen MINI One Profile View oldnell's Classified Ads
 
How to replace a blown bulb in the heater control panel

Disclaimer:
This worked for me. Your mileage may vary. I didn't break anything when I did this, but that does not mean you won't! Proceed at your own risk.

If your car is still under warranty it makes no sense to do this as a DIY job. This has to be one of the most fiddly bulb replacements ever. Similarly, if you're short of time, patience or skills, get someone else to do it.

I believe the following applies to the first generation Mini -- R50, R52 and R53 -- with no air conditioning or with manual air conditioning. The auto air conditioning panel uses LEDs, so you won't get this problem.

In this post, I will refer to the following parts as the "heater control panel".

Air conditioning control
RealOEM.COM * BMW R50 One 1.6i AIR CONDITIONING CONTROL

Heater control
RealOEM.COM * BMW R50 One 1.6i HEATER CONTROL

Symptom:
Exactly half of the illumination on the heater control panel fails.

Likely problem:
A bulb has blown. This panel is illuminated by just two bulbs. When one fails, half of the panel no longer illuminates.

You will need:
  • Two replacement clear bulbs of type 509T. These are available from Halfords, who sell their own branded bulb and one by Bosch. I chose the Bosch bulb, which was fine but did not fit as nicely as the original Mini part. Why two bulbs? You're going to be spending hours doing this job, so you may as well replace both bulbs while you're there. Also, there could be a slight variation in brightness between the existing good bulb and the new one. These bulbs are around 2 each.
  • Torx screwdrivers (T40 and T20)
  • #2 Phillips screwdriver.
  • A fairly wide flat-blade screwdriver.
  • Small hands.
  • Plenty of time and patience.

Follow the instructions in the following link to remove the knee bolster and dash downtubes, and then follow the section on removing the stereo head unit.
https://www.mini2.com/forum/faq.php?f...aq_faq_removal
  1. Remove the torx screws
    Remove the six torx screws on the front of the pillars. The bottom two hold the toggle switch panel in place, and the top four hold in the stereo and the heater control panel.
  2. Remove the toggle switch panel.
    It is preferable to remove the panel entirely to avoid the risk of scratching it, but I couldn't work out how to remove the electrical connector.

Removing the heater control unit.
  1. The first step is to set the blower control to setting 4. This will help ensure you don't make the same mistake I did (see later).
  2. The heater control unit is held in place by two white clips. Once the securing torx screws are undone, they are very easy to unclip. The unit pushes inwards and is removed by pushing the right hand side in first, rotating and then pulling the unit out through its own opening. However, you will first need to remove the connectors.

    The heater control unit has two mechanical cable controls (a bowden cable like those for a bicycle's brakes to control the temperature and a shaft to control the direction) and two electrical connections.
  3. First remove the wire shaft that controls the blower direction. This cable attaches the back of the heater control panel to the car. It is easiest to remove the end that is fixed to the car first. Rotate the direction control until you can access both sides of the clip.



    Reach in and squeeze the clips together and remove by tugging on the cable with your other hand.

    If possible, find the other end of this control cable and remove the clip from the back of the heater control unit. If not, manipulate the cable so that you can complete the next step.
  4. Push the right hand side of the heater control unit in on itself and rotate forward so that you can access the temperature control connector, taking care not to scratch the fascia (although it seems robust). See the pictures in the next section of the unit on its own to familiarise yourself with the back of the unit and the location of its connectors.



    For reference, the connector looks like this:


    I had considerable difficulty removing this and relied on brute force, levering it off with a screwdriver. There is a good possibility that there is a gentler and better way.
  5. Having removed the bowden cable, you can now unplug the black and green electrical connectors. The black one can be wiggled and pulled out. However, since it does not seem to be keyed you need to make a note of its orientation (see picture above, assuming the wire colours are the same on your car as on mine). The green one has a clip which must be lifted and rotated to free the connector. The green cable is keyed, so there's no risk of inserting it the wrong way.

    The heater control unit should now be free and may be removed from the car to work on at a table.

Dismantling the heater control unit



At the rear of the unit, you will see the following:

A green socket. This is for the lights and buttons.
A black socket. This is for the fan speed control.
To the left of the picture (right of the car) is the temperature direction control.
To the right of the picture (left of the car) is the temperature control.
  1. Undo the catches for the fascia by inserting a wide flat-blade screwdriver and twisting each in turn.



    WARNING! I made reference earlier to having made a mistake. Don't whatever you do turn the blower dial. If you were to turn it back beyond zero while the black fascia is removed you would find that a ball bearing flies out and you would more than likely end up squashing a spring. Two ball bearings and a spring provide the "notchiness" for the blower control. I managed to recover the situation by cutting the spring and stretching it to the required length after spending a considerable amount of time scouring the floor for the missing ball bearing.

    You can now see the inside of the unit. The orange paint is what gives the illumination its amber colour. The bulbs are actually clear.


  2. Remove the dials.

    Remove the three dials by placing a wide flat-blade screwdriver underneath and pulling up.



    You can now see the clear plastic light distributor that carries the light from the bulb to the fascia.


  3. Remove the clear plastic light distributor.

    You will need to manipulate it around the buttons.

    Now you can see the two light bulbs themselves, sitting in their carriers.


  4. Remove the circuit board by pulling at the plastic sides and pulling the circuit board up. Take care not to bend the board (although it does seem robust). You may need to pull back one or two of the white clips.


  5. Unscrew the bulb carriers and replace both bulbs.
  6. Test the bulbs.
    At this point, before reassembling everything, plug the green connector into the circuit board and turn on the lights. Both lights should now illuminate.

Reassembly
In the spirit of Haynes manuals, refitting is the reverse of dismantling

While reassembling the heater control unit, be sure that the clear plastic light distributor its nice and level, otherwise some bits of the dash will appear brighter than others.

Test the operation of all the heating and air conditioning controls. Check for hot and cold air. Check the blower operates correctly at all 5 settings (if not, you may have got the black connector the wrong way round). Check that the direction control works at each setting and that the knob rotates properly.

I found on reassembly that it was only blowing at one temperature. I followed the bowden cable back and found that the other end had become disconnected. It was simple to reconnect and is located in the driver's footwell of a right-hand-drive car (see picture below).



When reinserting the shaft for the blower direction, bear in mind that it will only fit in one position due to the keying on the connector.

That's it. I hope this is useful. If it is, please click the "thanks" button below!

Thanks to Dan at work for being photographer for a few of the photos.

Cheers

Oli


Last edited by oldnell; Aug 29th, 2007 at 08:03 PM.
oldnell is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 27 (permalink) Old Aug 17th, 2007, 06:41 AM
Has met Quack Quack Jack
MMC Member
 
DaFlake's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Moving to Maryland!
Local Time: 09:31 AM
Posts: 14,017
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)

United States Male View DaFlake's Pure Silver & Black 1st Gen MINI Cooper S Profile
       
Send a message via MSN to DaFlake
This is a great write up! Thank you for sharing.

DaFlake is offline  
post #3 of 27 (permalink) Old Dec 7th, 2008, 06:53 PM
MINI2 Newbie
 
humanfly's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Belgrade
Local Time: 02:31 PM
Posts: 32
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)

Serbia Male
 
just yesterday I saw that the right backlight heater bulb has died on my dash

this manual seems perfectly detailed so I`ll try doing things on my own. thanks a lot!
threads like this show that mini2 is truly the best MINI community
humanfly is offline  
 
post #4 of 27 (permalink) Old Jul 24th, 2009, 08:26 PM
MINI2 Newbie
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Local Time: 08:31 AM
Posts: 7
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)

United States
 
Hey folks- thanks for the information. I had the same problem and my dealer said that there was no part number for those bulbs; he further stated that the entire control unit had to be replaced at almost $500 ! This post allowed me to disassemble the thing but that bulb number didn't correlate to anything over here in the States. The specificaions for the bulbs are 12v, 1.2 w. Furthermore, after taking a trip to another BMW/MINI dealer and going through bins of bulbs, they were able to give me the correct bulb!! That part number (I believe its a BMW part number) is: 63-21-7-167-000. The description is: 905D BULB: 07400. They cost me $3.25 each. I hope this helps somebody!!
arodzx is offline  
The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to arodzx For This Useful Post:
post #5 of 27 (permalink) Old Aug 12th, 2009, 01:53 PM
Has met Quack Quack Jack
MINI FACTORY JCW R56
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Local Time: 01:31 PM
Posts: 21
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)

United Kingdom View aly_ant's Classified Ads
 
Great write up just did it, thank you so so much =)
aly_ant is offline  
post #6 of 27 (permalink) Old Mar 28th, 2010, 08:08 PM
MINI2 Newbie
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Local Time: 02:31 PM
Posts: 1
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)

United Kingdom
 
Thanks for the in depth guide i done it today and it worked a treat!

One word of warning though if you manage to get the toggle switch panel unplugged the heater control panel will not light up until this is plugged back in. i spent half hour figuring this out!
simonre7 is offline  
post #7 of 27 (permalink) Old Jan 29th, 2011, 11:57 PM
MINI2 Newbie
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Local Time: 09:31 AM
Posts: 14
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)

United States
 
509t = t5

Thanks so much for this in-depth write-up! I successfully did this today.

I have a few notes that may help others.

First, my symptom was the right and left side of the AC/Heater control unit would randomly go out and back on intermittently with no obvious reason. Although neither of my bulbs were actually blown, the wiring inside the actual bulbs had gone bad.

Also, for those searching for the replacement bulb, a 509T might be listed as a T5. T5 bulbs are much easier to run by when searching, but different bulbs come up as T5 at different vendors. Make sure you look at the picture before buying. I got some "T5" LED bulbs off eBay that fit perfectly - $2 for 4 of them. The LED bulbs work, but they aren't as bright as the regular incandescent bulbs, so I recommend going with incandescent replacements.

Lastly, if you want to test that it's working before putting everything back together, make sure you plug both the AC/heater control unit in AND the toggle switch panel in. The two panels must run on the same circuit and without the toggle panel plugged in you will have an open circuit and think that your new bulbs didn't fix everything when they likely did fix your problem! (I speak from experience...)

Thanks again!
tylo_la likes this.

Last edited by gknorr; Jan 31st, 2011 at 03:57 PM. Reason: T5 does not always = 509T
gknorr is offline  
post #8 of 27 (permalink) Old Feb 19th, 2011, 04:32 PM
MINI2 Newbie
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Local Time: 09:31 AM
Posts: 14
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)

United States
 
Little more info. on the light bulbs used for this.

The actual light bulbs pop out of the little black plastic casings. The light bulb size I used as a replacement is a "74" and is commonly available at most auto parts stores. It popped right back into the black casing and everything looks great again!

So, just get two "74" size bulbs for this job, and you'll be set.
gknorr is offline  
post #9 of 27 (permalink) Old Jul 13th, 2011, 09:58 PM
MINI2 Regular
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Local Time: 02:31 PM
Posts: 340
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)

United Kingdom View solidsponge's Classified Ads
 
Nothing is simple with the mini is it? jesus christ, all this to replace bulb. I havent even read it all. For the VW polo (better interior quality) it was this > remove cover, pull out and put in bulb! This is seriously over the top. I will be leaving the bulb blown, more likely to break something else taking it off
solidsponge is offline  
post #10 of 27 (permalink) Old Oct 16th, 2011, 11:04 PM
MINI2 Newbie
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Local Time: 06:31 AM
Posts: 1
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)

United States
 
My lights are out and the fuse panel shows a bunch of different fuses related to what seem to be the instrument panel. F5, F9, F21, F30. I am going to check all mine before I think about tearing the panel apart. Does anyone know which fuse is associated with the climate control panel lights?
Thanks in advance for the help..

jimaikin is offline  
post #11 of 27 (permalink) Old Sep 19th, 2012, 06:32 AM
rkw
MINI2 Senior
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: San Francisco, CA
Local Time: 06:31 AM
Posts: 664
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)

United States View rkw's Pepper White & Black 1st Gen MINI Cooper Convertible Profile
 
Thanks for the excellent writeup. I have replaced my bulbs, after running the panel dark for the past 6 months. I'm shocked at the amount of work it involves.

There are a few steps that can be skipped. After removing the clear plastic light distributor (step 3 of "Dismantling the heater control unit") and you can see the bulbs, at that point you can simply pull the wedge bulbs straight out of their holders. There isn't any need for further disassembly beyond that point.

As mentioned before, the bulb itself is commonly known as type 74 (especially in the U.S) or T5 bulbs, and they are available at auto parts stores. I purchased Sylvania 74 LL bulbs at a local AutoZone.

rkw is offline  
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to rkw For This Useful Post:
post #12 of 27 (permalink) Old Jan 25th, 2014, 09:36 PM
detroit muscle enthusiast
 
dethbrd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: tampa
Local Time: 08:31 AM
Posts: 9
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)

United States Male
 
Garage
first post, no time for pleasantries, ....

I just fixed the bulb in my 2004 r53.

I am a disabled mechanic, and have made my living fixing cars since 1987.

upon reading this entire write up, I decided I could surely do this without removing the stereo and the climate control panel itself. after all, the bulbs slide out of the twist in sockets from the front.

so I removed the uprights, removed the lower switch panel, and removed the screws that hold the climate control to the dash.

then I popped the black cover off of the controls with it still in the dash and still connected. the I popped off the 3 big knobs, next I removed the clear plastic light diffuser, and finally, I just wiggled the bulb from the socket very carefully with a tiny pair of needle nose pliers. easy as pie right? nope, I decide to replace the other bulb since I was already in there and that one shattered when I tried to pull it out. this is when I realized the circuit board will pull out of the unit far enough to twist the sockets in and out without unplugging the wiring. I just gently pulled it forward, twisted the socket out, cleared the broken glass from the socket, and the twisted the socket back into place. I found it easier to slide the bulb in from the front after the socket was installed due to the fact that my "74" bulbs are just a little fatter than the stock ones, and they expand the socket a little bit, making it difficult to fit in the hole.

now, if you are on the fence about whether to do this mod because of the scope of how far you tear into the car, my way will keep you from having to pull the stereo, and get behind there, messing with the cables and such.

it is a very delicate job though, and I would not recommend it to those who aren't good with brittle plastic parts and who aren't very patient. it was a little nerve wrecking thinking I might have to go to the bmw dealer to buy a new panel if I screwed this one up.

I did take a few pics but I haven't uploaded them yet and I don't know how to post them here yet. I will add them soon.

hopefully, this might help someone else get this done.
dethbrd is offline  
post #13 of 27 (permalink) Old Jan 26th, 2014, 09:27 AM
MINI2 Regular
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Hitchin
Local Time: 02:31 PM
Posts: 72
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)

United Kingdom Male
 
I wish I had know this sooner! Mini charged me 146 to replace the entire heater unit. Had the same symptoms as you as well.
Kalenshah is offline  
post #14 of 27 (permalink) Old Jan 26th, 2014, 01:28 PM
MINI2 Master
 
Oakleyguy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: UK
Local Time: 02:31 PM
Posts: 1,095
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Quoted: 156 Post(s)

United Kingdom Male
 
Seems like a real 'ball-buster' of a job for two tiny bulbs!
I'm dreading doing mine, going to wait until the summer when
it's (hopefully) a bit warmer.
Oakleyguy is offline  
post #15 of 27 (permalink) Old Jan 26th, 2014, 04:21 PM
detroit muscle enthusiast
 
dethbrd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: tampa
Local Time: 08:31 AM
Posts: 9
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)

United States Male
 
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by spikeyadrian View Post
Seems like a real 'ball-buster' of a job for two tiny bulbs!
I'm dreading doing mine, going to wait until the summer when
it's (hopefully) a bit warmer.
I would not try this job unless the temp inside the car was at least 70 or higher. there is just too much plastic involved to risk it.

it was mid sixties when I did mine and I took the car for a drive with the heater on high before I pulled it apart so the interior would be nice and toasty.
dethbrd is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply
Tags: , , , ,


Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the MINI Cooper Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in











  LinkBacks (?)
LinkBack to this Thread: https://www.mini2.com/forum/first-generation-faults-fixes/145485-how-replace-blown-bulb-heater-control-panel.html
Posted By For Type Date
Untitled document This thread Refback Mar 29th, 2009 01:45 AM
Untitled document This thread Refback Feb 25th, 2009 05:37 PM
Untitled document This thread Refback Feb 19th, 2009 01:56 PM
Untitled document This thread Refback Jan 13th, 2009 02:53 PM
Untitled document This thread Refback Jan 2nd, 2009 09:16 PM
MINI COOPER :: North American Motoring - Replaced bulbs in manual heater A/C control This thread Refback Dec 17th, 2008 11:40 PM

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
bulb out on heater switch panel dasher1275 Maintenance & MINI Care 1 Aug 9th, 2012 10:32 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome