P0014 and 283D Pt-Can communication fault code before and after changing timing chain - Page 2 - MINI Cooper Forum

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post #16 of 28 (permalink) Old Jan 21st, 2019, 04:40 PM
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Update
Ok, so I've bought new sealing rings which are totally different in design to the original ones. BMW presumably made an update at some time. Pic attached.
The replacements are a continuous fiber ring, whereas the ones that came out were split and made of a cast iron type material. Lets see if this cure the issue!
worth knowing if does do they look about same size etc and if so then they must of had problems with the metal designed ones.


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post #17 of 28 (permalink) Old Jan 28th, 2019, 03:45 PM
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Ill be really interested to hear if these fix your problem. I was thinking about replacing the PCV on mine but its running alot better I might take the hose off and give it a suck/blow to see how mines performing.

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post #18 of 28 (permalink) Old Jan 28th, 2019, 04:54 PM Thread Starter
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I've changed the seals and measured the cam bearing/journal clearances. They're around 1 thou, so I can rule out worn cam bearings.
The codes now don't come up as frequently and occasionally not at all, but there's still an issue.
I took the car to an independent who could scan the vanos movement.
It came up as spot on except the occasional blip when the vanos didn't respond to ECU output.
As I've swapped over the Vanos solenoids, we agreed the next course of action was to replace the Vanos sprocket.
I'm going to do that at the weekend.
Just out of curiosity I put 1 L of Lucas heavy duty oil stabilizer in the engine - just to see if additional viscosity would help. This did nothing! But I'm sure its generally good for the engine- that's if I ever use it again!!!
These things are a nightmare, even with access to BMW live data readers.
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post #19 of 28 (permalink) Old Jan 28th, 2019, 06:20 PM
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Originally Posted by freddie328 View Post
I've changed the seals and measured the cam bearing/journal clearances. They're around 1 thou, so I can rule out worn cam bearings.
The codes now don't come up as frequently and occasionally not at all, but there's still an issue.
I took the car to an independent who could scan the vanos movement.
It came up as spot on except the occasional blip when the vanos didn't respond to ECU output.
As I've swapped over the Vanos solenoids, we agreed the next course of action was to replace the Vanos sprocket.
I'm going to do that at the weekend.
Just out of curiosity I put 1 L of Lucas heavy duty oil stabilizer in the engine - just to see if additional viscosity would help. This did nothing! But I'm sure its generally good for the engine- that's if I ever use it again!!!
These things are a nightmare, even with access to BMW live data readers.
It came up as spot on except the occasional blip when the vanos didn't respond to ECU output.............. that could be the clue,
worth sticking a multi meter or scope on the plug to the vanos solenoid see if the blip is electronic or not that said i would think it would flag up a code for this in the ecu, if vanos dont move to where it needs to be it will cause timing related codes

Albert Einstein: The definition of insanity is doing the same thing over and over and expecting different results.
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post #20 of 28 (permalink) Old Feb 4th, 2019, 09:09 PM Thread Starter
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So, having trawled the internet for hours looking for an internal picture/diagram of a Mini Cooper Vanos sprocket I took the plunge and opened mine up.
Tool required - good quality five point T27 - and give the bolts a tap before attempting to loosen them.
There isn't too much that could go wrong inside these. This one had done 89000 miles and I can no discernible wear. I did notice the spring was binding, but I can't be sure this happened by the way I was messing around with it or not. What I have noticed is that the spring end visible from outside the sprocket has settled in a slightly different position since dismantling/ assembly and now there is absolutely no binding - that had possibly caused the sprocket to lock.
This sprocket has come from an engine with badly slipped timing chain. I'm wondering if the ECU could have been trying to constantly correct this and dislodged the spring? A lot of people seem to have the P0014 and P0015 fault codes after a timing chain change and this may explain it. I'll put it back together in a few days, and maybe find out!!
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post #21 of 28 (permalink) Old Apr 6th, 2019, 05:52 PM
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Did you solve the problem? I have the same problem with my N12
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post #22 of 28 (permalink) Old Apr 11th, 2019, 05:26 PM Thread Starter
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Not yet.
I've managed to obtain the correct cam journal diameter data, so from there I can work out if the head is worn.
Oil pressure is 30 psi hot at idle, so I don't think pressure is the problem.
I've also bought a digital protractor to check the cam locking tool has set the cams correctly.
I scoped the engine and compared results with a known good car. The cam position sensor profile was identical to the other car, but the vanos solenoid profile was not. This could be due to incorrect timing, so until I measure the cam timing I'm not looking at this too much.
Should know more next week.
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post #23 of 28 (permalink) Old May 30th, 2019, 08:14 PM Thread Starter
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Fixed!! But expensive.
Ok, I thought I should post this as a conclusion to my issue, as so many people seem to have the P0014 / P0015 fault codes without a fix.
Having been through the whole vanos system component by component I came to the conclusion that the camshaft bearing nearest to the exhaust vanos oilway had worn, causing oil to spill out rather than drive the exhaust vanos. By turning the engine over, oil could be seen spilling out of the bearing next to the vanos feed at a much greater rate than the other bearings. Plastigage showed a clearance of 4 thou plus, which is too much. Using plastigage on a good head the clearance is 2.5 thou, and across the whole bearing surface.
So I too the plunge and bought a recon head. Bingo! problem solved.
There are lots of system tests that can be done to pin this issue down, but at the end of the day even the most sophisticated computer readers wont say the head needs replacement.
If you have the Vanos fault codes and the diagnostic equipment doesn't definitively pin down to the problem, it is possible to fault test the system components, rather than replacing components until the problem is fixed!
The vanos sprocket can be dismantled and inspected. The vanos solenoid can be bench tested. The camshaft sensors can be scoped. The ECU output to vanos solenoid can also be scoped; but if Vanos sprockets aren't moving the reading will be the same as the reading with ignition on, engine off. It is also possible to check oil pressure by making a simple adaptor.
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post #24 of 28 (permalink) Old May 31st, 2019, 06:53 AM
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Fixed!! But expensive.
Ok, I thought I should post this as a conclusion to my issue, as so many people seem to have the P0014 / P0015 fault codes without a fix.
Having been through the whole vanos system component by component I came to the conclusion that the camshaft bearing nearest to the exhaust vanos oilway had worn, causing oil to spill out rather than drive the exhaust vanos. By turning the engine over, oil could be seen spilling out of the bearing next to the vanos feed at a much greater rate than the other bearings. Plastigage showed a clearance of 4 thou plus, which is too much. Using plastigage on a good head the clearance is 2.5 thou, and across the whole bearing surface.
So I too the plunge and bought a recon head. Bingo! problem solved.
There are lots of system tests that can be done to pin this issue down, but at the end of the day even the most sophisticated computer readers wont say the head needs replacement.
If you have the Vanos fault codes and the diagnostic equipment doesn't definitively pin down to the problem, it is possible to fault test the system components, rather than replacing components until the problem is fixed!
The vanos sprocket can be dismantled and inspected. The vanos solenoid can be bench tested. The camshaft sensors can be scoped. The ECU output to vanos solenoid can also be scoped; but if Vanos sprockets aren't moving the reading will be the same as the reading with ignition on, engine off. It is also possible to check oil pressure by making a simple adaptor.
if that bearing is worn out on a under 100k car chances are its been driven with low oil at some point or lack of oil changes, also for others reading this there's a revised oil control ring for camshafts ie changed from metal to a carbon plastic, dont hurt the cam journal as the metal ones will, happy days fixed

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post #25 of 28 (permalink) Old May 31st, 2019, 08:19 AM Thread Starter
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Yes, i'm sure it had and this was probably compounded by the chain tensioner / chain guide failure.

Now I've just got code 2FE7 to look at. This one is really curious. There is absolutely no abnormalities in the way the starter and start / stop operate, and whilst I know this is related to the starter I don't know what is actually being measured. Any clues?

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post #26 of 28 (permalink) Old May 31st, 2019, 11:24 AM
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Yes, i'm sure it had and this was probably compounded by the chain tensioner / chain guide failure.

Now I've just got code 2FE7 to look at. This one is really curious. There is absolutely no abnormalities in the way the starter and start / stop operate, and whilst I know this is related to the starter I don't know what is actually being measured. Any clues?
starter motor/solenoid maybe getting tired so reacting slower than prescribed. would be worth popping it out and clean it and spray freeing oil first then some grease on the slider for the bendix ie the sprocket part that engages with the flywheel, chances are of use start stop alot the motor needs a refurb unit ,, rule of thumb a car used in built up area most of life ie start stop driving tend to do a starter motor around 60-80- where a motorway car will still be fine at 130k ,
the other thing that plays up is the CAS unit link below explains this bmw design crockofpoo, really do hope its not the second thing,
https://www.sinspeed.co.uk/cas3-immobiliser-repair/

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post #27 of 28 (permalink) Old Jun 2nd, 2019, 01:30 PM Thread Starter
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Bendix shaft very grubby and stiff to move slider up it.
Cleaned it up and applied some graphite powder. Job done!
Armature and brushes look very good.
Cars done 90K, mainly rural driving.
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post #28 of 28 (permalink) Old Jun 2nd, 2019, 01:50 PM
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Bendix shaft very grubby and stiff to move slider up it.
Cleaned it up and applied some graphite powder. Job done!
Armature and brushes look very good.
Cars done 90K, mainly rural driving.
rural cars and motorway cars are always better than start stop city driving i have found mechanical like one speed and to be run non stop, hopefully it will stay fixed now,

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