MINI, Diesel & DPF maintenance in city driving conditions - Page 2 - MINI Cooper Forum

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post #16 of 29 (permalink) Old Jun 10th, 2019, 04:30 PM
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As per my experince Not ideal for diesel engines.

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post #17 of 29 (permalink) Old Jun 10th, 2019, 04:50 PM
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+In an earlier post you said you did not have a turbo ,you do .Also latter (Mini Ds with the BMW engine)dont have the aditive tank.


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post #18 of 29 (permalink) Old Jun 10th, 2019, 05:01 PM
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As per my experince Not ideal for diesel engines.
i have never thought that about my autocom does most things use it all the time, there are 3 different types, lesser one has only part of micro processor boards in it. also knowing how to use it and use sub menus etc helps

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post #19 of 29 (permalink) Old Jun 10th, 2019, 07:41 PM Thread Starter
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As per my experince Not ideal for diesel engines.
Thanks for the reply tom! You mean the driving routine or the OBD proposed by mike1967?

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+In an earlier post you said you did not have a turbo ,you do .Also latter (Mini Ds with the BMW engine)dont have the aditive tank.
Thanks for the info stormbringer, it was more of a question actually, I wasn't sure if it's supercharged or turbocharged. They don't? Good god.. so only peugeot engines had that EOLYS type of additive, whereas next ones didn't have anything? OK that's more persuasive now for me to do some trips every week :/ Irony is that I sent two emails to MINI and I still haven't gotten any response on how regen works, how many mph, revs, miles etc. to do.
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post #20 of 29 (permalink) Old Jun 15th, 2019, 02:43 PM Thread Starter
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Hi again guys,

I bought a CataClean Diesel solution as mike1967 proposed to put in every 3-4 months, but I also bought a Wynn's DPF cleaner treatment to put once every 3rd-4th tank. The problem I have is that there's a metallic flap blocking the bottle (or anything actually) from going into the fuel tank (not sure if it's just with the Diesel model or all models and makes). I bought a plastic funnel from Halfords, but it doesn't open it. So, I suppose that it has a sensor that detects the diesel pump nozzle and unlocks? If so, how can I temporarily bypass that to put the additive into the tank?

Any thoughts?
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post #21 of 29 (permalink) Old Jun 15th, 2019, 07:43 PM
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Hi again guys,

I bought a CataClean Diesel solution as mike1967 proposed to put in every 3-4 months, but I also bought a Wynn's DPF cleaner treatment to put once every 3rd-4th tank. The problem I have is that there's a metallic flap blocking the bottle (or anything actually) from going into the fuel tank (not sure if it's just with the Diesel model or all models and makes). I bought a plastic funnel from Halfords, but it doesn't open it. So, I suppose that it has a sensor that detects the diesel pump nozzle and unlocks? If so, how can I temporarily bypass that to put the additive into the tank?

Any thoughts?
my clubman had that and would not move i found i could pour the additive over the metal tongue and it fell in to tank as such, another way is next time go fill up sticking it in then ie push pump nozzle just in and pour the additive over the top as such

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post #22 of 29 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 03:32 PM Thread Starter
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my clubman had that and would not move i found i could pour the additive over the metal tongue and it fell in to tank as such, another way is next time go fill up sticking it in then ie push pump nozzle just in and pour the additive over the top as such
Thanks for the help Mike! I was almost about to do this, but I thought I'd give this one a try

www[dot]amazon[dot]co[dot]uk/gp/product/B07RTS2ZDL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

(sorry for the [dot] in the URL, I still don't have 15 posts to paste one properly)

It's a diesel fuelling funnel that is supposed to be given with Ford Diesel cars (located in their boot), and it worked a treat! Flap opens exactly like I'm putting diesel in it, so whoever's interested I totally recommend that and it's just 14 quid!

I just did a 100 mile return trip to Guildford (no additives inside) but I'm sure the DPF was cleaned as much as possible. So, before I fill up my tank, I'll put some Wynn's inside so that it can lower the temperature in which soot is burned to 450 Celcius. Do you think that in city driving conditions (although 15-20 minute driving) would be enough to slightly regenerate according to these conditions?

Also, I'd like to put Cataclean inside when my tank reaches a quarter (as per the instructions), but would it be OK if I now put inside the tank the Wynn's DPF additive? I don't want to overdo it with both tbh.

Thanks a lot in advance Mike!
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post #23 of 29 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 04:19 PM
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Thanks for the help Mike! I was almost about to do this, but I thought I'd give this one a try

www[dot]amazon[dot]co[dot]uk/gp/product/B07RTS2ZDL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

(sorry for the [dot] in the URL, I still don't have 15 posts to paste one properly)

It's a diesel fuelling funnel that is supposed to be given with Ford Diesel cars (located in their boot), and it worked a treat! Flap opens exactly like I'm putting diesel in it, so whoever's interested I totally recommend that and it's just 14 quid!

I just did a 100 mile return trip to Guildford (no additives inside) but I'm sure the DPF was cleaned as much as possible. So, before I fill up my tank, I'll put some Wynn's inside so that it can lower the temperature in which soot is burned to 450 Celcius. Do you think that in city driving conditions (although 15-20 minute driving) would be enough to slightly regenerate according to these conditions?

Also, I'd like to put Cataclean inside when my tank reaches a quarter (as per the instructions), but would it be OK if I now put inside the tank the Wynn's DPF additive? I don't want to overdo it with both tbh.

Thanks a lot in advance Mike!
i just bought a vauxhall insignia 2.0cdti with 55.000 miles on it has been driven local all its life has a dpf problem already, these will damage them selves really badly if i was to keep driving it, done a check via autocom on dpf filter pressures and filter is 75% blocked its at that point where it will never clear it self as cant generate enough heat even when being driven at 70mph on a motorway for 2 hours, the bi product of this is it trys to add more diesel to regen but cant burn it this diesel ends up in the oil and this kills the main bearings all the time. my local engine builders the other day had 5 of these engines in with same problem main bearings screwed because or dpf and also the other stupid design issue the O-ring between the oil pump and oil pick up tube as this is part of the sump,, anyway i have done the ring and changed the oil and added seafoam to the fuel tank and added cataclean dpf cleaner as well and forced 3 regens with the software one after the other and have got filter cleared again,, the difference is i used a autocom and this on regen cycle takes 40 minutes per forced regen and holds the revs at 3400 revs while retarding the injection point and adding long cycles of fuel this is what turns the exhaust in to a furnace which is what is needed,, this next bit is my point here i know even after 3 forced regens chances are this car needs a new filter to be on safe side and will get one now i know everything else is ok on it,, the makers say 75000 miles replace the filter if dont what has happened to these vauxhalls will and does happen to all diesels run like it .. the gen 2 mini with the psa diesel engine the filters are cheap £115 the later n47 engines are more money but still are not for ever 75k is the designed capacity it does seem,, anyone who dont take this seriously or thinks i just made it up go search on line about what driving with block dpf filter will cause all makes are the same,

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post #24 of 29 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 05:06 PM Thread Starter
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i just bought a vauxhall insignia 2.0cdti with 55.000 miles on it has been driven local all its life has a dpf problem already, these will damage them selves really badly if i was to keep driving it, done a check via autocom on dpf filter pressures and filter is 75% blocked its at that point where it will never clear it self as cant generate enough heat even when being driven at 70mph on a motorway for 2 hours, the bi product of this is it trys to add more diesel to regen but cant burn it this diesel ends up in the oil and this kills the main bearings all the time. my local engine builders the other day had 5 of these engines in with same problem main bearings screwed because or dpf and also the other stupid design issue the O-ring between the oil pump and oil pick up tube as this is part of the sump,, anyway i have done the ring and changed the oil and added seafoam to the fuel tank and added cataclean dpf cleaner as well and forced 3 regens with the software one after the other and have got filter cleared again,, the difference is i used a autocom and this on regen cycle takes 40 minutes per forced regen and holds the revs at 3400 revs while retarding the injection point and adding long cycles of fuel this is what turns the exhaust in to a furnace which is what is needed,, this next bit is my point here i know even after 3 forced regens chances are this car needs a new filter to be on safe side and will get one now i know everything else is ok on it,, the makers say 75000 miles replace the filter if dont what has happened to these vauxhalls will and does happen to all diesels run like it .. the gen 2 mini with the psa diesel engine the filters are cheap £115 the later n47 engines are more money but still are not for ever 75k is the designed capacity it does seem,, anyone who dont take this seriously or thinks i just made it up go search on line about what driving with block dpf filter will cause all makes are the same,
Hi Mike,

Thanks for your response, this is actually very interesting. I completely agree with you on the fact that diesels with DPF are not meant to be used for city-driving; for sure! I'd expect the 75,000 miles DPF change to apply only to those diesels that have highway miles or mixed city/highway miles (more of the latter than the former though), so generally speaking, yes, I would expect the DPF for a city-driven car to be changed much sooner, as it would create these problems that you say (and more of course). My questions here though would be the following:

- Wouldn't a service like Terraclean clean the DPF of its ash (off the car though) in a much cheaper rate than to renew it and get another 25-30k miles out of it, so that you can then change it at its 75k mark?

- Would an additive like Wynn's (DPF cleaner, not cataclean) that lowers the temperature to just 450 degrees be much better for this reason? Maybe even slightly regenerate in city-driving conditions (provided that the trip is at least 10 miles) as I suppose 450 degrees should be reached in city-driving conditions.

- Is it safe to force regenerate the car myself using Autocom (or Carly) ? I've heard some stories that the engine temperature kept going beyond 95-98 degrees to even past 100 for some fellas.
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post #25 of 29 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 05:36 PM
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Hi Mike,

Thanks for your response, this is actually very interesting. I completely agree with you on the fact that diesels with DPF are not meant to be used for city-driving; for sure! I'd expect the 75,000 miles DPF change to apply only to those diesels that have highway miles or mixed city/highway miles (more of the latter than the former though), so generally speaking, yes, I would expect the DPF for a city-driven car to be changed much sooner, as it would create these problems that you say (and more of course). My questions here though would be the following:

- Wouldn't a service like Terraclean clean the DPF of its ash (off the car though) in a much cheaper rate than to renew it and get another 25-30k miles out of it, so that you can then change it at its 75k mark?

- Would an additive like Wynn's (DPF cleaner, not cataclean) that lowers the temperature to just 450 degrees be much better for this reason? Maybe even slightly regenerate in city-driving conditions (provided that the trip is at least 10 miles) as I suppose 450 degrees should be reached in city-driving conditions.

- Is it safe to force regenerate the car myself using Autocom (or Carly) ? I've heard some stories that the engine temperature kept going beyond 95-98 degrees to even past 100 for some fellas.
- Wouldn't a service like Terraclean clean the DPF of its ash (off the car though) in a much cheaper rate than to renew it and get another 25-30k miles out of it, so that you can then change it at its 75k mark? simply no it would not, dpf filter does not block up do to dirt as such its a very fine sand dust type stuff left from the very high temps the soot is furnaces at, its this that builds up, the filter is a saturation type and not a open type filter as such.

terra clean is more of a fuel system and inlet system cleaner costs a few quid, i get same effect if not better in my view by using seafoam and inlet spray and can in fuel tank and can in engine oil 50 miles before change, by far a better way and it really does clean out all the crud more so that a faint mist would on a heavy duty inlet track,
as for the view that a motorway car will not suffer as soon as a town car would, its heat and pressure and time that makes them work, i have had cars that at 70mph on motorway its barely reving above 1900 revs, which is barely enough to get a passive regen working,

- Would an additive like Wynn's (DPF cleaner, not cataclean) that lowers the temperature to just 450 degrees be much better for this reason? Maybe even slightly regenerate in city-driving conditions (provided that the trip is at least 10 miles) as I suppose 450 degrees should be reached in city-driving conditions. you want high temps its the heat that makes a dpf and cat work and also regens it when added to pressure, ie reving engine,


- Is it safe to force regenerate the car myself using Autocom (or Carly) ? I've heard some stories that the engine temperature kept going beyond 95-98 degrees to even past 100 for some fellas.[/QUOTE]
hmmm trouble is with all these terrible stories i always remind myself about stupidty of folk,, ie doing this with low engine oil, yep bang it goes, low water yep bang it goes, doing it on a totally shagged engine bang again, doing on a car with any fault all but the dpf full codes,, ie seen a muppet do it on a car with a faulty cooling fan, while regen in progress the fan must be running and will running for 5 minutes after, doing a forced regen with bonnet closed all adds a level of extra heat, could argue doing it on a very hot day would also add more heat load to the process, that said its designed on a healthy serviced car to do that function. i have done loads of them never had a problem,, as always while its doing it i'm checking it temperature and any strange noises of water leaking etc,, then if dont feel right just press the cancel button on the software and end the process and fix what needs fixing,
i will not comment on carly app never used one cant see it would be anywhere near as good as autocom or wurth snooper and i only use proper trade gear as such,
its funny seafoam also has some internet hits where people moan about it ie it broke my engine,, then you read between the lines and this idiot has just poured a can straight in to the inlet breather pipe on a diesel or a petrol engine and liquid dont compress,, where half a brain cells would make most be think just spray a small amount in see how its goes etc,


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post #26 of 29 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 06:41 PM
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or there is a 3rd way delete it and the egr valve but technically mot failure but at present there is no way to tell if filter is there or not as long as keep exhaust looking like a factory one, ie cut the old filter on its welds then re weld back after knocking filter out, then a £170 remap and software delete, this changes the car so much and makes them a pleasure to own, and also the oil stays clean i know of a few cars been done back 2007 and still on road now with over 200.000 miles on them and engines still use no oil etc,

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post #27 of 29 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 06:55 PM Thread Starter
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Dear Mike,

I can't thank you enough for the wealth of knowledge that you share with us in this forum! For my complete lack of mechanic experience with cars, I'd avoid this, but damn, that would be a dream; a diesel car with no worries about its DPF! By the way, do you know of any map that would help reducing these particles? (i.e. if you can't burn them, reduce 'em! haha) or any map for what matters; my Dooper is still in its default map, so I suppose that there's always a more efficient one.

================================================== ================
Just to sum up everything for those not reading all previous posts, advice shared so far are the following:

- Frequent oil changes (if mainly city driving, check that often - maybe every 6k miles) and good service/maintenance needed.
- A good all-in-one additive like Cataclean could be used every 3-4 months (put it when you have a quarter of diesel left in your tank).
- If possible, give it a nice go once a week for 20/30 miles, revs up above 2.5k.
- The previous could be combined with a forced regeneration (provided that your car is in good condition - no faults etc.) that can be made using AUTOCOM (see mike's post above) - I'll use Carly soon and let you know if and how well it works. That's 'cause I have ordered this already, otherwise I'd go with mike's suggestion.
- The estimated average "good" life of the car is 75k miles, after that DPF will soon need replacing, along with timing chain in n47 models and/or turbo a bit down the road.
================================================== === Credits go to mike!

Guys to be honest, my hair almost got grey reading and searching through these things. So much that it takes off the super fun that is driving this thing up and down (especially in country roads with many turns). What I'll do is to monitor the particles (soot) using Carly (since I bought this anyway, otherwise AUTOCOM) to see when regeneration is due (or to force one if I am to take a trip and passive regeneration won't help much), and keep it in tip-top shape by always giving it a V-Power fuel, CataClean once every quarter and frequent oil changes. But aside from that, I can't do much and if I'm not lucky it will fail anyway. Sometimes we're so deep into looking for these failures to come that they take away from the super fun driving these lovely MINI cars!
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post #28 of 29 (permalink) Old Today, 07:23 AM
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Sometimes we're so deep into looking for these failures to come that they take away from the super fun driving these lovely MINI cars!
ha ha welcome to my world it would be nice to own a car and just drive it with out a care in the world, i remember all all the nasty repair jobs that have done in the past and how how some faults keep coming to the top, i know a guy who does custom maps for dpf egr and 50/50 eco and power map ie brings the power band lower so get a big hit of power early in the rev band, i've a had a lot off him over the years he's a automotive electrical repairer, all the cars he has done for me have gone through mot emissions checks lower on the gas machine, which is bi- product of getting the amount of fuel and air/boost just right within the map,,
was speaking to him last week he thanked me for sending a guy off here who had a gen 1 cooper s mini and had modified it big time but had fitted bigger injectors off something else to find they would not work with the competition ecu this bloke had taken it to a couple rolling rolling places and they told him it cant be done,,, dale and the rolling road company he works with sorted it out,
big difference between people who copy code and people who can make code as such, and also repair and clone anything hmm except the mini bc1 as its silly protected
i will drop his number here for anyone who needs something like what i said above doing, a bonus ball is is that he can also do a send your ecu's in by post and he flips them around fairly fast, i always use this service ie UPS over night it,
DALE PHONE NUMBER 07807 222262

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post #29 of 29 (permalink) Old Today, 09:31 AM
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added point if ever you have driven a bmw n47 engine with dpf and egr and map on it its like stepping on a landmine with the torque also mpg is better, due to this, egr valve adds carbon dioxide to the air inlet this is a inert gas and gives now power from re burning it, so delete the engine replaces this 20% with air that does have a burn factory and remap adds to this as well, also the oil in the engine without egr is cleaner, then add dpf goes lack of back pressure and unwanted heat etc and no more regens cost fuel to boot, you should alaways ask for a copy of factory setting from the ecu ie the first write a tuner produces so if in future need to reset back to factory and stick a dpf back on it you can ,, mot is visual check at present the gas test always reads less than if it had it fitted still and no smoke is the key part of any increase in power, i have never had a smokey one off dale before (on a healthy engine or course) as he knows what the boundaries are.

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