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post #106 of 129 (permalink) Old Aug 19th, 2018, 09:53 PM
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Too late, I've greased them up
I've always done that with exposed threads, like droplinks etc. Whilst the dirt does stick to the grease, it's usually simple enough to wipe off and leave a super clean thread with no rust
Too late he cried! They don't seem to rust really. Which does surprise me. As you can see in the pic. I haven't done anything to clean those up, just a bit of fairy and a washing up brush in the kitchen sink.

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post #107 of 129 (permalink) Old Oct 6th, 2018, 09:42 AM Thread Starter
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Update, car failed it's MOT 3 weeks ago:
- Phone/SatNav holder on windscreen (was an advisory last year).
- Nearside front headlight not working on dipped beam (interesting as it worked when I drove home the night before... and now I look like one of those muppets that puts their car into an MOT with lights not working ).
- Nearside inner ball joint excessively worn (hmmm, that's a good description for a part that's only 6 months old...).

Right, took out the holder on the windscreen as I never use it except for the rare journey I don't know the way to.

Removed cover for bulb of nearside headlight, noted how the ignitor for the xenon bulb is orientated, swap it with offside... Spend literally 2-3 hours trying to put it back in... turns out that the bulb holder only fits one orientation, and the ignitor only fits one orientation - and this is NOT how it was when I removed it (nearside) Eventually managed to re-fit them, surprise surprise both headlights work perfectly (see next post for this one)

The 'excessively worn ball joint', moving the wishbone revealed that one of the two bolts had a little play...


So decided to tighten it up...


Second hand subframe bought, and it's in infinitely better condition than mine...


When I removed my subframe 6 months ago to fit poly control arm bushes, I'd intended to clean up and paint it but ran out of time.
So at least now I had another chance to get everything clean, starting by getting it sandblasted...


And painted with POR-15, plus brand new wishbones + inner ball joints (decent brand this time)...


Put in again for it's MOT, and passed (with a whole new set of advisories, which should be sorted now).


Last edited by JohnnyC; Oct 7th, 2018 at 09:09 AM.
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post #108 of 129 (permalink) Old Oct 6th, 2018, 09:45 AM Thread Starter
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- Nearside front headlight not working on full beam (interesting as it worked when I drove home the night before... and now I look like one of those muppets that puts their car into an MOT with lights not working ).
- Nearside inner ball joint excessively worn (hmmm, that's a good description for a part that's only 6 months old...).

Removed cover for bulb of nearside headlight, noted how the ignitor for the xenon bulb is orientated, swap it with offside... Spend literally 2-3 hours trying to put it back in... turns out that the bulb holder only fits one orientation, and the ignitor only fits one orientation - and this is NOT how it was when I removed it (nearside) Eventually managed to re-fit them, surprise surprise both headlights work perfectly (see next post for this one)
As you may know from previous posts in this thread, I have front & rear cameras fitted.
I only checked them last night.
I'll make no judgements (yet), just some facts and a little speculation/questions...

Here you see the nearside headlight *IS* working getting it's MOT...


The tester then uses a machine with a lens in front of both headlights, I presume this is to check the height of the beam? maybe colour too?

He then lifts the bonnet and fiddles with the headlight.
Maybe the height wasn't correct and he's adjusting the height of the beam?
But wait, see this pic - placed on top of the fusebox is the back cover for the xenon bulb AND the xenon ignitor (why would the ignitor need to be removed?!?!?!)


He then re-assembles it and of course it doesn't work again for the course of the MOT (as I found out later that night it had been assembled wrong).

Normally I wait and watch while the MOT is done. But due to starting a new job recently, I left it there, won't be doing that again (not that it'll ever go back there)

This whole thread, the reason why I do all the work myself (or as much as possible) isn't to save money, it's to do the work RIGHT
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post #109 of 129 (permalink) Old Oct 6th, 2018, 10:56 PM
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Good on you.

Some so called mechanics just don't care working on other people's cars.
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post #110 of 129 (permalink) Old Oct 8th, 2018, 02:26 PM
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Why was the MOT tester messing about with the headlights, dismantling the back of them? They don't normally touch anything. In fact I'm not sure they are even allowed to??
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post #111 of 129 (permalink) Old Oct 8th, 2018, 06:28 PM Thread Starter
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Why was the MOT tester messing about with the headlights, dismantling the back of them? They don't normally touch anything. In fact I'm not sure they are even allowed to??
My thoughts exactly.

If it weren't for it failing also on the ball joint I'd be back there complaining, as well as reporting them.
They've just lost all future business from me and the 3 cars in the immediate family.
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post #112 of 129 (permalink) Old Oct 13th, 2018, 05:47 AM
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Cars coming along nicely Johnny.

Hard to believe all my balljoints are 16yrs old and still stiff, oo er missus!!


Por 15 seems the was to go!, will you be dismantling your rear frame and doing that one?
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post #113 of 129 (permalink) Old Oct 13th, 2018, 08:49 AM Thread Starter
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Por 15 seems the was to go!, will you be dismantling your rear frame and doing that one?
I saw a rear subframe on ebay recently, it looked immaculate.
Very tempting...
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post #114 of 129 (permalink) Old Oct 13th, 2018, 10:57 AM
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I saw a rear subframe on ebay recently, it looked immaculate.
Very tempting...
The temptation for me would be too much to bear!!

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post #115 of 129 (permalink) Old Oct 13th, 2018, 01:47 PM Thread Starter
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The temptation for me would be too much to bear!!
Fortunately for my wallet, it's no longer on eBay

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post #116 of 129 (permalink) Old Nov 5th, 2018, 09:36 PM Thread Starter
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Few weeks ago I decided to tackle the headlights, they'd been fine for years, but went like this all of a sudden


This was the guide I followed:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UEJbKLZ7RmM

End results, much better, but close up you can see some lacquer runs so may do again in the future


Something I'd forgotten to mention, upon removing the subframe I damaged an outer ball joint. Luckily I had a spare.
But upon removing the hub (as I'd rather be bashing it like this than risk damaging the driveshaft etc) I really really wish I'd bought a wheel bearing when I saw the old one


Got the car serviced at Lohen, they picked up on a few things:
- Wheel bearing that I wished I'd changed above, so they changed that as I was getting the tracking done also.
- Rocker cover leak, they sorted that with a new gasket.
- Sump pan leak, which I'll sort eventually, I bought the gasket over 2 years ago!!
- Intercooler boots cracking. I'd noticed that when I changed the HT leads and coilpack a few months ago, just annoyed with myself that I've forgotten!!
- CV joint knackered. So I've went against the 'buy cheap, buy twice' and bought J&R driveshafts after hearing nothing but glowing reviews from other Mini owners.
- Slipping serpentine belt, they put on the spare I had but still the same. I bought a new belt tensioner over 4 years ago - time I change it then!!!

New intercooler boots


Belt tensioner


Bad news, one of the small bolts sheared.


New driveshafts yet to fit


So I've taken the car off the road because of the sheared belt tensioner bolt, but should be fine to take somewhere the get a replacement timing cover swapped over.
Which leads me to the fact that I may as well get the timing chain and guides changed at that time too...

Never ending spending...
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post #117 of 129 (permalink) Old Nov 6th, 2018, 10:02 PM
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Never ending spending, but an my old man says..

It Keeps ya 'oot of trouble


Just need those little maintenance bits sorted and she'll be 100%


All you need now is the Recaro Sports seats and a nice Por 15'd rear frame!
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post #118 of 129 (permalink) Old Nov 17th, 2018, 10:02 PM Thread Starter
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Had a knock when starting to turn the wheel left, but only after the wheel had been turned right.
New drive shafts. Mini wanted around £900 for both. Euro Car Parts wanted £540. Got some from J&R for only £64 delivered.

I also spent £94 on some Febi inner & outer boots as the J&R boots are supposedly not very good.
Ended up not fitting new boots as I couldn't get the cv joints off. The inner boots wouldn't have fit anyway due to the difference between oem & J&R.


Right-hand side very easy, but you have to get under the car to undo the 3 bolts on the bracket.


Left-hand side required a pry bar to remove old shaft, and not easy to get the new shaft in.


The steering knock vanished after changing the right-hand side drive shaft
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post #119 of 129 (permalink) Old Dec 3rd, 2018, 06:51 PM Thread Starter
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Over the past year I've been getting a squelch/scraping sound going over the very first speed hump out of my estate.
Being only the first one (and only when leaving the estate, coming back over the same hump is fine), I assumed it was something to do with the car being stood for a while.
Also, it started making this noise way before I fitted AP coilovers, did it at standard height with my Koni FSDs.

Thought perhaps an engine mount. So fitted a new rear one, the cheapest and easiest to fit...


No difference.
I've now concluded, that it's the speed hump itself. It's falling to pieces.
The council have 'fixed' a few over the past 18 years but seem to have given up nowadays!

I think I've officially ran out of stuff to do. I'm considering buying a project R50. Wheeler Dealers
Although I fear it'll just be another expensive hobby.
Face it, two identical cars except one has new suspension and priced just £50 more. People are just gonna choose the cheaper one
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post #120 of 129 (permalink) Old Dec 8th, 2018, 05:26 PM Thread Starter
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Not driven the car much since putting the new belt tensioner on, due to the sheared bolt. But what little I did drive, it felt noticeably faster.

Got the timing cover changed, as well as new timing chain and guides, by the good folk at Lohen


I have to take my hat off to the guys at Lohen for noticing the slipping serpentine belt when they serviced it a few weeks ago.
The belt never screeched.
It's probably been like this since I bought the car, or when I put on a 15% pulley. As when I put the pulley on, although faster, it was never the night & day difference people said it would be.

They also did an incredible job of the alignment. While the car handled really well previously, it now is MUCH better. Probably due to the rears being adjusted for the first time ever.

And here's the results of the dyno, very happy with that
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