Mini Cooper Vanos faults - MINI Cooper Forum

Second Generation Faults & Fixes MINI faults and fixes Late 2006 - Present

 
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old Sep 25th, 2017, 08:27 PM Thread Starter
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Mini Cooper Vanos faults

I've got a 57 plate Mini Cooper 1.6 N12 PSA EP6. Initially brought up 2845 vanos exhaust activation movement and 283D vanos exhaust apdation stop. As suspected timing chain had jumped on exhaust cam. Fitted new chain, guide and tensioner using AST timing tool.

On startup hunts for idle for a few seconds, switches then brings up 2845 vanos exhaust activation movement and then secondly 283D vanos exhaust adaption stop. Fault codes read on solus pro, autel and Delphi dials. Since flushed oil twice, fit new vanos pulley/sprocket, checked timing twice, fitted new oil seals on end of exhaust camshaft. Cleaned and swapped solenoids, cleaned and swapped sensors still bring the same faults up. Cleaned galleries from solenoid to cam. Checked cam caps - all ok.

Any ideas?

Thanks

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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old Sep 26th, 2017, 06:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Charvey30 View Post
I've got a 57 plate Mini Cooper 1.6 N12 PSA EP6. Initially brought up 2845 vanos exhaust activation movement and 283D vanos exhaust apdation stop. As suspected timing chain had jumped on exhaust cam. Fitted new chain, guide and tensioner using AST timing tool.

On startup hunts for idle for a few seconds, switches then brings up 2845 vanos exhaust activation movement and then secondly 283D vanos exhaust adaption stop. Fault codes read on solus pro, autel and Delphi dials. Since flushed oil twice, fit new vanos pulley/sprocket, checked timing twice, fitted new oil seals on end of exhaust camshaft. Cleaned and swapped solenoids, cleaned and swapped sensors still bring the same faults up. Cleaned galleries from solenoid to cam. Checked cam caps - all ok.

Any ideas?

Thanks
couple of jobs to do off the bat, reset adaptations with delphi, this will reset the ecu learnings back to beginning of time,, also oil pressure test as vanos uses oil pressure for control and movement.. oil seals on camshafts have a picture of the old ones or what you used,, and explain how you fitted them and where. did you replace everything full kit all 3 sprockets and guides and tensioner etc. and can you explain your process when locking it off and timing it,, as this process is very important with these engines


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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old Sep 26th, 2017, 07:24 AM Thread Starter
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Yes changed full kit only thing not changed is inlet vanos Timed up by pin crank locked the vanos's then fit the cradle and set tension on chain with tensioner replacement. Changed the 2 seals on no 1 cap with BMW fibre / rubber replacements and soaked in oil before fitting.

Reset the adaptions with the autel, the readings were perfect middle of tolerance when adapted. I'm inclined to think oil pressure but if you start it and hold the revs it still does it.

I wondered if there was a software update that had a bit more tolerance.
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old Sep 26th, 2017, 05:58 PM
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Yes changed full kit only thing not changed is inlet vanos Timed up by pin crank locked the vanos's then fit the cradle and set tension on chain with tensioner replacement. Changed the 2 seals on no 1 cap with BMW fibre / rubber replacements and soaked in oil before fitting.

Reset the adaptions with the autel, the readings were perfect middle of tolerance when adapted. I'm inclined to think oil pressure but if you start it and hold the revs it still does it.

I wondered if there was a software update that had a bit more tolerance.
i do believe there is a update for that remember someone else on here had same issues they said took it to mini mini downloaded a software update,,
after you reset adaptions did you start car leave on idle until up running temperature ie fans come on then go take it for a good drive,, i do that on the peugeots alot and they play up a bit in the beginning i start first part of drive to 3k then build up to rev line over a few miles it helps the ecu to relearn slowly so dont get confused if that makes sense.. but before any of that need to know what oil pressure is doing..
another thing i have found try locking the car off again with the tensioner in and not the pre;load tool, i have found just a tiny bit to much preload bends the chain guides and makes car run retarded,, i have stopped using a preset torque on preloads now i now do it by eye and feel and when its correct i can lock cams and crank off with chain tensioner in place,, honestly try it,, its so weak and flexible that dont take much force from preload tool to throw it all out,, i done a 207gti 175 the other day or should say redid it as another mechanic had a go at it and did not go to plan,, i tend to get these now as just done enough of them and get them right 9 times from 10 the first time now, but in the beginning had a few failures where not until road test you find timing out,, proper rubbish is what it is

Albert Einstein: The definition of insanity is doing the same thing over and over and expecting different results.
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old Sep 26th, 2017, 06:32 PM Thread Starter
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The oil pressure is good. If anything too good around 40psi at idle. But not fully up to temp at that. Warm though. Trying to upload a video of oil pressure gauge but can't for some reason
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old Sep 27th, 2017, 01:05 PM
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The oil pressure is good. If anything too good around 40psi at idle. But not fully up to temp at that. Warm though. Trying to upload a video of oil pressure gauge but can't for some reason
just got my monthly subscription for car mechanics magazine at its got a full write up on cam timing on vti engines and is pretty good bang on info as it is very involved to do from start to finish would be worth you getting a copy.. i used a cheap timing tool off ebay and had endless issues with it in hindsight it was down to how it was made when compare to a sykes one or laser tools one both these tools are nearly £300,, but have noticed draper now do a good one £199 at machine mart,
one thing i would check before moving forward is relock engine, you should be able to lock it off perfectly with the tensioner in place if can something as moved while setting it up this happens sometimes when putting pressure on the stretch bolts and moves timing off... i keep saying this as your car ran without these fault codes before you took it apart i take it, if these codes a new after the chain kit then its something done during change and the most common is timing is way off and car cps picks up the out of time engine.. cant stress more these engines are a proper pig with timing and moving off time when tighten things up even when your being careful with it,, seen many a mechanic the first few times get caught out with them,, best way to find out is relock it with tensioner in place it relock easy if dont thats enough to throw it all out,, just think 1 degree out on a cam shaft is 2 degrees out on the crankshaft,, 1 degree is 1 degree of 360 degrees, 5 degrees would be 10 degrees,, 10 degrees is a full tooth out easily just a thought

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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old Sep 27th, 2017, 07:57 PM Thread Starter
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Little bit more time tinkering tonight. Reset the cam timing, this time using a digital angle finder so know it's perfect. Timing is bang on. Stripped the old vanos pulley and now fully understand how it works with the hydraulic locking pin. From what I can see, I'd say the lock pin is not releasing. Given the oil pressure the engines got (30psi at idle) I'm struggling to understand how.

I have read that sometimes the pulleys come faulty. Is this a common occurrence? Or does anyone know if the software update allows more pressure build up before cutting the solenoid.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old Sep 28th, 2017, 06:54 AM
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Little bit more time tinkering tonight. Reset the cam timing, this time using a digital angle finder so know it's perfect. Timing is bang on. Stripped the old vanos pulley and now fully understand how it works with the hydraulic locking pin. From what I can see, I'd say the lock pin is not releasing. Given the oil pressure the engines got (30psi at idle) I'm struggling to understand how.

I have read that sometimes the pulleys come faulty. Is this a common occurrence? Or does anyone know if the software update allows more pressure build up before cutting the solenoid.
could be faulty from new new was it a genuine or after market one might just be a a tad tight need a few times of working maybe might be worth forcing it to flex, did you take it apart if so they only go back together one way i've been told, i always replace them use a fai full kit thing kit £200 not had issues with them yet, but have seen a few nightmares with the cheap chinese copys that are on ebay, FAI and febi bilsteen are OM quality so norm stick to these for kits,, febi dont do the vvt or the stretch bolts where FAI do online.

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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old Apr 7th, 2019, 09:45 PM
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Did you ever find a solution to your problem? i have the same problem.
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old Apr 9th, 2019, 05:47 PM
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mike your a man that knows about the problems of these R56 engines i wonder if you might be able to help me i have a 2006 R56 with N12B16A engine there is a permanent fault code 285E it says valvetronic adjustment range. As you no they have twin vanos units and a eccentric shaft with valvetronic actuator motor. i bought the mini as a none runner ie head was off due to previous owner not fixing water leak i found good secondhand head with two new vanos units fitted to cams i fitted head with all new head bolts cam bolts crank bolt cam chain kit guides sprocket chain tensioner and a metal bladed water pump. i set timing up using correct timing locking tool kit when i tried to start car it turned over ok struggled to run through checking things i found the valves to be open due to eccentric shaft i also found out the vanos units needed to be reset which has been done i have also reset the actuator motor as per bmw advise.the car now starts and runs ok but when its ticking over the engine rattles i have found out if i use the 4mm allen key to turn actuator motor i can stop the rattling noise and car ticks over lovely but you can watch the allen key turn back to the same position as before hence the rattle returns.if i pull the motor plug off the actuator motor does not return i have bought a second hand eccentric shaft sensor thinkig that maybe the issue but its still the same i understand its the ecu determining where the motor will reset itself as i have unplugged eccentric shaft sensor as watched motor return. i cannot find any information on valvetronic adjustment range or on 285E code how to fix the problem or whats the course of the issue. Any help or a direction to look would be great

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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 07:23 AM
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Originally Posted by phill 51 View Post
mike your a man that knows about the problems of these R56 engines i wonder if you might be able to help me i have a 2006 R56 with N12B16A engine there is a permanent fault code 285E it says valvetronic adjustment range. As you no they have twin vanos units and a eccentric shaft with valvetronic actuator motor. i bought the mini as a none runner ie head was off due to previous owner not fixing water leak i found good secondhand head with two new vanos units fitted to cams i fitted head with all new head bolts cam bolts crank bolt cam chain kit guides sprocket chain tensioner and a metal bladed water pump. i set timing up using correct timing locking tool kit when i tried to start car it turned over ok struggled to run through checking things i found the valves to be open due to eccentric shaft i also found out the vanos units needed to be reset which has been done i have also reset the actuator motor as per bmw advise.the car now starts and runs ok but when its ticking over the engine rattles i have found out if i use the 4mm allen key to turn actuator motor i can stop the rattling noise and car ticks over lovely but you can watch the allen key turn back to the same position as before hence the rattle returns.if i pull the motor plug off the actuator motor does not return i have bought a second hand eccentric shaft sensor thinkig that maybe the issue but its still the same i understand its the ecu determining where the motor will reset itself as i have unplugged eccentric shaft sensor as watched motor return. i cannot find any information on valvetronic adjustment range or on 285E code how to fix the problem or whats the course of the issue. Any help or a direction to look would be great
could a blob of thread lock on the allen key thread cure it form unwinding, i've not come across this yet, the ecu does does indeed control the motor and how much lift and when the valves get, i have seen motors fails get slow or intermittent as the brushes inside get worn out, i have also seen the shaft inside the head get worn on the teeth part and cause them to rattle and or lock up.
below link thread lock worth a punt reset the allen key leave to set.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Loctite-2...4fd50bcef2cbce

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