indeed, the steering has had a remarkable change from heavy to feeling normal to any other car (being a justa with electric motor steering assist) this has been one of the most noticeable improvements. I had thought that something had gone awry with my suspension after the lower rear bushing replacement but it turns out it was all electronic due to the failing alternator. Nothing weird about any of this, it all makes perfect sense. If there are not enough ziggies for lights and ignition then there are not enough for major systems either. I am so happy that I did not spend wasted time on peripheral jobs and you sent me in the right direction... spend time and money on the right parts. There are so many differential diagnosis to one specific query online yet the big picture has to be taken into consideration... no electronic power equals many zany problems.
Anyone with heavy steering, lights flickering, loss of power needs to consider alternator function after connections are checked EVEN if their scan tool says 14+ volts... it is on its way out, early doors maybe but defo going South.
yep its just a process,
1. code read the car.
2 get codes and work out what sensors are reading what
3 live data run it see what the others are doing
4, the hard part working out whether its a electronic or mechanical problem causing the code.( ie maf sensor saying implausible reading, might me the map sensors but might be, no oil pressure on a turbo car. or broken turbo. and many more things,, cars have just got to complicated for our own good
5 ie engine issues must do compression test, smoke test inlet pipes. oil pressure test, and alternator and battery storage rates,, (prob worth doing this near the first jobs,
process is knowing what base lines the car has, ie oil pressure 60psi. compression at 200psi is very good, oil pressure at 15psi and compression at 100psi is not so good, same goes goes for injection systems, process a tick list helps one to go around in circles with doubt...