Front and Rear speakers installation (MCS R56) - MINI Cooper Forum

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post #1 of 3 (permalink) Old Nov 30th, 2014, 09:30 PM Thread Starter
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Front and Rear speakers installation (MCS R56)


If needeed please move this thread to the appropriate category Below my experience in replacing the factory speakers, of the non HiFi version Mini Cooper S (MkII/R56).

- Factory speakers are 6.5" and 4" with no tweeters.
- The sound quality will improve significantly if you go for a set of 6.5" (bass) and 1" (tweeter), with a seperate crossover.
- The factory unit delivers only 4x15 watt RMS so you need a set of sensitive speakers (91-95dB). I used the GTO 609C from JBL.
- The 1" tweater will take the place of the 4". You can create a wooden bracket to install that.
- You can also point the tweeter a bit upwards to improve the sound stage without installing A pillars.
- There's a set of cables hidden next to the factory bass speaker, so you don't need to destroy the original cabling to install these.

- Factory speakers are 6x9"
- You can also fit a set of 6x8" with a wooden bracket.
- Again go for a set with high sensitivity (91-95dB). I used the GTO-8629 from JBL.
- If possible go for the same brand front and rear. You don't need to worry about specific speaker characteristics in terms of sound this way, which are hard to alter without a proper equalizer. The head unit doesn't have one.

- My budget was 200€. The installation took one full day.
- You don't need to redo the cabling. It's fine by the factory.
- To install the rear speakers you need to remove only the lower part of the back seats (by pulling it upwards), and the side panels, starting from the front seats side. You will need a friend to lift the panels as to remove the speakers from underneath.
- You can further imporove the sound by installing some accoustic material behind front and rear speakers.
- High sensitivity speakers will play much louder that you think - you don't need a seperate amplifier to drive those.
- The crossover box fits on the armrest, it wont get stuck to the window mechanism there, and there's no moisture either.
- The factory unit has a crossover build-in, but when I tried that with a set of cheaper speakers, the difference to the factory speakers was minimal. So I returned those and bought a set with a seperate crossover.
- The 6.5" front speaker might need new holes, but those are easy to make as the door panel is made of plastic.

Difference in the sound quality was well worth the money and time spend!

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post #2 of 3 (permalink) Old Aug 24th, 2015, 09:31 PM
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Thanks for this Leonidas. Like you my budget couldn't really justify spending 550+ on the NewMiniStuff upgrade so I am doing things on a budget. I just bought, on your recommendation, the GTO-609Cs, so let's see how we do with those! I paid 90 for them.

I also just picked up a used Alpine PMX-F640 for 50 inc P&P.

Did you ever consider mounting the tweeters anywhere else? They are tiny and I wondered if they could be discretely mounted somewhere. Just a thought. I'll hopefully update this thread as I go - this is not something I have done before so will be a learning experience for me.

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post #3 of 3 (permalink) Old Sep 25th, 2015, 01:34 PM
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Hi, an update on this. I installed some JBL GTO-609c (90) and JBL GTO 329 (40) and some dynamat Xtreme (10), some spade connectors (5) all from CarAudioDirect. Some notes from my installation in addition to the above:
  • I did not use the tweeter that came with the 609c - it seemed easier to use the 329 with a built in tweeter. I also did not use the crossover
  • The wires are not quite long enough for the woofers - I had to extend them by about 10 cm.
  • the brown cable is NOT always negative despite what other sites might say.
  • The mirror switch isn't so complicated as long as you take great care when you take it off.
  • The 329s come with a capacitor to limit the amount of bass going to them

The improvement in sound for me was moderate at best. Probably just about worth what I spent on it!
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