Knocking on the Front - Replaced Drop Links + Bushes - MINI Cooper Forum

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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old Apr 22nd, 2015, 10:59 AM Thread Starter
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Knocking on the Front - Replaced Drop Links + Bushes

Hi everyone,

Wondering if someone can shed some light on the knocking sound I'm getting on my Cooper D.

It started about 6 months ago and I have spent the time since trying to solve it. MINI want £100 just to look and a MINI specialist told me they cant find anything wrong.

So far myself and with advice from various garages I have replaced the rear anti roll bar bushes (just in case the knock was from the back) and I have replaced the front and rear drop links....nothing has solved it, but reading further could it possibly be my top mounts?
I had a look at them this morning and took a pic as they seem to be cracked?

I really hope I can solve this as it's beginning to really bug me now.

Any help or advice would be great.

Harry

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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old Apr 22nd, 2015, 11:00 AM Thread Starter
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old Apr 22nd, 2015, 12:23 PM
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Beats me when you say the MINI specialist says theres nothing wrong, are they saying its all a figment of your imagination then??
One assumes they have checked everything involved already to come up with that conclusion, theyve looked at the top mounts and didnt see them as a problem?
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old Aug 4th, 2015, 01:07 PM
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did you ever get to the bottom of this one? I've got a similar problem except the cars due to go back to the finance company soon and I don't fancy a nasty bill for repairs :-o
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old Oct 6th, 2015, 09:18 AM
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I have the same problem too and would like some advice on this. My 09 mini cooper s knocks somewhere over the passenger side and is only noticeable over low speed.
I di have a misting Shocker on that side and was wondering if this has any connection to it?
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old Oct 6th, 2015, 02:58 PM
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I di have a misting Shocker on that side and was wondering if this has any connection to it?
Well now is as good a time as any other to change the shocker. I'd run through the obvious re the knocks, drop links, antiroll bar bushes, ball joints etc. The way I usually test the antiroll bar bushes is by disconnecting the drop links from it. If the noise goes away then you've found the problem.
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old Oct 6th, 2015, 10:43 PM
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Well now is as good a time as any other to change the shocker. I'd run through the obvious re the knocks, drop links, antiroll bar bushes, ball joints etc. The way I usually test the antiroll bar bushes is by disconnecting the drop links from it. If the noise goes away then you've found the problem.


Thanks for the info. Unfortunately for me, I don't have the kit to get under the car and do the work. I only have the car jack that came with the car. What would I need to get access to the underside?
My only solution is to take it too my local garage and fix things in the way of ilimination. Which is going to cost me several hundred pounds if I can get under the car I would defo give it a go. YouTube has always been my friend on how to fix things
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old Oct 7th, 2015, 04:38 AM
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Jack the car up with the one that came with it, remove the road wheel then undo the drop link with a 16mm spanner and allan key. If the allan key just spins then you can use another spanner on the back of the drop link too. Repeat on the other side then take it for a wee drive over the bumps where you heard the knocking. If its still knocking with the drop links disconnected then your problem lies somewhere else
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old Oct 7th, 2015, 09:00 AM
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Jack the car up with the one that came with it, remove the road wheel then undo the drop link with a 16mm spanner and allan key. If the allan key just spins then you can use another spanner on the back of the drop link too. Repeat on the other side then take it for a wee drive over the bumps where you heard the knocking. If its still knocking with the drop links disconnected then your problem lies somewhere else
They were the first thing replaced by my local garage so there ruled out (£55) So Need to look at the next part to replace. The garage mentioned something abou replacing two other bushings that cost £25 for the pair to see if that is the culprit. But needs a few hours to access and remove them. Has to drop something to get to them from what i remember? Also is car jack safe and high enough for me to work comfortably under?
Forgot too mention. The brake pads needs replacing and ive read that knocking can come from there? Being replaced today so will soon find out!
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old Oct 7th, 2015, 03:37 PM
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The only thing you need to "drop to replace" is the subframe to do the arb bushes which cost £9 for a pair from BMW! Even at that you only need to lower the subframe by about 3" to access the rear bolt holding them in. Every other bush/ ball joint can be replaced in situ including the centre bushes if you have the tool!

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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old Oct 7th, 2015, 07:49 PM
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The only thing you need to "drop to replace" is the subframe to do the arb bushes which cost £9 for a pair from BMW! Even at that you only need to lower the subframe by about 3" to access the rear bolt holding them in. Every other bush/ ball joint can be replaced in situ including the centre bushes if you have the tool!

Really appreciate your advice and help
Do you know of a link to youtube or website that shows you how to do this job? I can get hold of a hydraulic jack so will have a go. What tools will i need?
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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old Oct 7th, 2015, 11:13 PM
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Have a look through MODMINI's channel as this guy makes great "how to" videos and will show you whats involved in some processes if your planning on doing a job yourself. He has a video on how to safely support your car on stands etc
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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old Oct 9th, 2015, 02:28 AM
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front lower control arm bushings
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post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old Mar 23rd, 2019, 06:36 PM
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I've had this problem on my R55 Clubman 2010 for a while now and have a mechanical background. Trouble is when you stress test all the usual suspects (bushes and balljoints) with a lever bar nothing obvious shows up and it's incredibly difficult to replicate the knock when the car is motionless and jacked up. I've changed the track rod ends and drop links (mainly because they were cheap) but this hasn't cured the knock. I had another good look at the car yesterday and found that with both drop links removed I can feel play and movement in the front anti-roll bar via the bushes. With the drop links connected I can't feel this play, even with a pry-bar. I plan to change the front anti roll bar bushes for urethane ones in the next few weeks but it's going to have to go into my mates garage for this as they seem impossible to get at without lowering the subframe. I'm convinced this will cure the knock as I've ruled everything else out and it's the only place I can't feel movement that would translate into a knock on uneven road surfaces.
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post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old Mar 23rd, 2019, 10:42 PM
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I had the front arb bushes replaced on my 58 Clubman last year. The garage charged me 1hr labour can't be too involved
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