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post #1 of 61 (permalink) Old Jan 18th, 2019, 05:47 PM Thread Starter
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Hi all, I'm half of a Father and son team with a newly purchased 2010 Petrol Cooper S.

Although only a week into ownership several faults have appeared, the most major being a suspected High pressure fuel pump to be replaced under warranty.

Although it's the lads car, Dad's the spanner man so I've joined here so I can enlighten myself on whats bound to be an interesting ownership!

Righto,,. I'm off for a look around the site. Be gentle with me ! Ha ha

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post #2 of 61 (permalink) Old Jan 18th, 2019, 06:08 PM
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Hi all, I'm half of a Father and son team with a newly purchased 2010 Petrol Cooper S.

Although only a week into ownership several faults have appeared, the most major being a suspected High pressure fuel pump to be replaced under warranty.

Although it's the lads car, Dad's the spanner man so I've joined here so I can enlighten myself on whats bound to be an interesting ownership!

Righto,,. I'm off for a look around the site. Be gentle with me ! Ha ha
before they do the pump would check timing chain for wear.

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post #3 of 61 (permalink) Old Jan 18th, 2019, 06:29 PM Thread Starter
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Hi, this is N18 not N14 and is a low miles car with full Mini history. Would you still suspect the cam chain? It's saying fuel rail pressure to low. Only on a cold start it pings the EML on and limp mode. If I let it warm and clear the code it rips great all day without issue.
Till the next cold start, then the cycle starts again.

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post #4 of 61 (permalink) Old Jan 19th, 2019, 07:37 AM
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Hi, this is N18 not N14 and is a low miles car with full Mini history. Would you still suspect the cam chain? It's saying fuel rail pressure to low. Only on a cold start it pings the EML on and limp mode. If I let it warm and clear the code it rips great all day without issue.
Till the next cold start, then the cycle starts again.
what can happen and catches people out is this, timing chains stretches the idle drops below a point and seams like its the high pressure pump with low pressure just enough time to confuse ecu, just because its a N18 its still the same timing chain components as all the others with some added bull from main agents telling people these issues have been addressed i would guess, the N18 has more power twin vanos more to go wrong, it could very well just be the high pressure pump, commonly these turbo engines see around 50-60k most by 80k have given up , i have seen 22.000 miles one but due to the owners lack of checking and maintaining oil level at full mark and reving it hard from cold, its a simple scan with diagnostic to be checked while they are setting up the high pressure pump,, just worth checking,
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post #5 of 61 (permalink) Old Jan 19th, 2019, 07:56 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you Mike, that's awesome information. I will pass it onto the mechanic who is carrying out the warranty repair. I've tested the low pressure side which doesn't drop below 6.9 bar at cold start so appears intial pressure is adequate.

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post #6 of 61 (permalink) Old Jan 19th, 2019, 07:57 AM Thread Starter
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Is it a scan I can do with my equipment?

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post #7 of 61 (permalink) Old Jan 19th, 2019, 10:40 AM Thread Starter
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Sorry Mike to clarify, when you mention 60,-80000 miles and their done.Are you referring to pump life or N18 engine life?

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post #8 of 61 (permalink) Old Jan 19th, 2019, 12:17 PM
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Sorry Mike to clarify, when you mention 60,-80000 miles and their done.Are you referring to pump life or N18 engine life?
theres so many things that effect timing chains on them,
1, from new car was leased and owner just added fuel as such and found they eat engine oil but not before running it so low as to start the wear off.
2. past owners dont change oil until 20k plus and use wrong oil.
3 past owners get in and just flor it from the off,
4 driving at high revs everywhere more revs more wear .
5 the biggest problem is its just made out of second rate parts, the chains are very small narrow and fairly long, bmw had a epic diesel 325tds engine and 2.5 petrol back with e46 bmw ages ago had a twin timing chains on them the changed to these single cheap chains to save some weight many felt in the trade at the time, seen those engines do 500.000 miles before on same chains, where these thin light ones dont see past 100k,,
just need to treat the timing chains as a service item has a life span, trouble is driving to far on a very stretched out of time engine will cause other problems, with 02 sensors and cat and even make ot run a lot hotter by running retarded all the time as it takes more uel to push a out of time engine added to the pre ignition and pinking caused. you can hide from this with any engine with a timing chain as most of the low emission designed cars have these days, as for scanning ot i use autocom cdp plus this gives live data and option to add actual and prescribed timing on them

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post #9 of 61 (permalink) Old Jan 26th, 2019, 06:17 PM Thread Starter
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Hi Mike. Got the car back yesterday, the garage wanted to check it over before jumping to the Hpfp as it's expensive and can't be returned once fitted .

They are a very approachable lot and I passed your comments onto them, they said they were going to check the timing chain and timing as can cause this issue and fault code.

So they are happy it's the high pressure fuel pump, it's booked in Thursday to have it done, under the used car warranty. Just as well as it's not a cheap job.

It's getting worse now, it's moved on from cold start limp mode , which after being cleared doesn't come on again all day, but it's just not running properly and it's getting worse quickly. Hoping it's all related to the same issue.

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post #10 of 61 (permalink) Old Jan 27th, 2019, 12:09 PM
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Hi Mike. Got the car back yesterday, the garage wanted to check it over before jumping to the Hpfp as it's expensive and can't be returned once fitted .

They are a very approachable lot and I passed your comments onto them, they said they were going to check the timing chain and timing as can cause this issue and fault code.

So they are happy it's the high pressure fuel pump, it's booked in Thursday to have it done, under the used car warranty. Just as well as it's not a cheap job.

It's getting worse now, it's moved on from cold start limp mode , which after being cleared doesn't come on again all day, but it's just not running properly and it's getting worse quickly. Hoping it's all related to the same issue.
how many miles has the car done,, also if you take the key in to bmw they can access the service repairs log on it tell you what history they have in its past. guess the garage know what they are dealing with as the ones that dont tend to not believe these can have chain issues with age and miles etc,


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post #11 of 61 (permalink) Old Jan 27th, 2019, 01:49 PM Thread Starter
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I've got everything that's been done to the car. From. Several dealers, it's had a lot of warranty done but it's never had a pump. It did have a Modified chain tensioner in 2014 under warranty.

Cars done 50,000 miles with a full mini service history.

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post #12 of 61 (permalink) Old Jan 27th, 2019, 03:19 PM
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I've got everything that's been done to the car. From. Several dealers, it's had a lot of warranty done but it's never had a pump. It did have a Modified chain tensioner in 2014 under warranty.

Cars done 50,000 miles with a full mini service history.
It did have a Modified chain tensioner in 2014 under warranty. first sign of things to come from past experience,,
bmw in their wisdom and i use wisdom as a p-take to solve a high number of cars still on warranty having timing chain rattle due to the chain stretching,, the tensioner was doing ok chain still not so... so bmw increased the sprung throw on it to make them last longer before anyone would notice there is a issue until after the warranty time it would seem, 50.000 miles and already had a tensioner fitted its in the realms of chain stretched, like said turbo cars suffer more so as rev'd higher for longer and more forces from crankshaft to camshafts and drag on oil pump.

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post #13 of 61 (permalink) Old Jan 27th, 2019, 04:18 PM Thread Starter
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The tensioner was at 24,000 miles. For sure if the chain etc gets replaced, it will be yours truly doing it. I've read my son the riot act about checking the oil level and no ragging from cold. The joys of Mini ownership. Thanks again for your insight it's invaluable.

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post #14 of 61 (permalink) Old Jan 27th, 2019, 05:34 PM
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The tensioner was at 24,000 miles. For sure if the chain etc gets replaced, it will be yours truly doing it. I've read my son the riot act about checking the oil level and no ragging from cold. The joys of Mini ownership. Thanks again for your insight it's invaluable.
thing is cant hide from these chains in pretty much all cars these days see many vw audi group engine suffer same way even merc 2.7 petrols suffer,, i really do wonder sometimes whether these designer makers get together and make a agreement to produce stuff a certain way to sell more parts etc, but of course big business would never do that hmmmm,, but would share each others engines and tech.
good engine oil. 9k changes seafoam engine flush let it warm up gentle and same about letting cool down after.
the chain kits are fairly cheap the vanos spockets will do 120k so on a chain chain change every 60k to be on safe side and get the best out of them i feel, can do a chain change 4 hours easy parts under £150.. word of warning cars that have been driven for many of thousands of miles with stretched and out of time engine destroy the cat and 02 sensors and possible valve stem seals or very worst cause pre ignition and wash the bores causing compression issues at very worst, vw tsi and fsi do the same trick on the CAVE engine numbers the worst but all the others still suffer especially the small engine'd ones,

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post #15 of 61 (permalink) Old Jan 27th, 2019, 05:54 PM Thread Starter
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If we have to consider them a service item we may as we have stayed with belts. Though my work I frequently see Vw Polos that suffer chain/timing damage after a crash. Even if hit in the rear .
Sometimes jumping teeth, sometimes catastrophic. It's a crazy scenario that car body's now last but the mechanicals can be the weak point.

Best get myself a workshop manual!

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