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03 central locking

1799 Views 13 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  Backspannering
Been reading the threads to gain info , can see similar problems .
Youngest has asked if I can get the remote key working , we’ve had the car 3 years and the remote fob never worked and buttons worn but still operated the micro switches . Started by changing the battery in the fob still no joy , changed the receiver behind the clock granted 2nd hand off eBay still nothing . Tried different pairing methods , the car opens with the driver door and starts the car . The toggle in the centre works the locks , from what I’m reading it’s the rover 2 button setup . Suggestions to take to dealer to pair up , but I’m wondering if there’s some fault in the system that needs sorting before that . Trying to work out what components are in the system receivers , relays etc . And if it’s possible to pair up without software , any info would be greatly received . I would love to get to the bottom of it , trying to be carful not to make it worse . Tia.
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All I am aware of is the CAS system (Car access system). And the ignition receptacle. I went to the dealership and had bought 1 new key fob and found out the old one that did not lose was no good after they re programed the one. So I got another 1. In total bought two new key fobs and had them install a new ignition receptacle.
Mini Cooper Dealerships are well versed on stuff like this and are more than welcomed to help with odds and ends of a situation. Part of what makes a Mini Cooper Dealership experience enjoyable in my mind.
All I am aware of is the CAS system (Car access system). And the ignition receptacle. I went to the dealership and had bought 1 new key fob and found out the old one that did not lose was no good after they re programed the one. So I got another 1. In total bought two new key fobs and had them install a new ignition receptacle.
Mini Cooper Dealerships are well versed on stuff like this and are more than welcomed to help with odds and ends of a situation. Part of what makes a Mini Cooper Dealership experience enjoyable in my mind.
Thanks for reply , what year is your car ?
When using the key in the lock it does seem fairly tight , not able to compare but wondering if this would effect the remote central locking ? Seems to work fine from the toggle switch inside .
Not sure I'll help but here's my experience...

I only got one key with my 2002 R50 when I bought it 3 years ago and it was the spare key with no remote locking capability. Locking always worked up until a few months ago when the dash lock button stopped working and unlocking the driver's door no longer unlocked the passenger door, though it would lock it.

Anyhow I misplaced the key, and got it replaced through an insurance policy - only this paid out for a new remote key and coding - bonus!

New key was £120 from BMW and coding to the car was £80. Before they coded it to the car, what they were looking for for the remote locking to work subsequently was activation of the door locks from the dash toggle switch, in other words nothing to do with the mechanical action of the key in the door.

After the coding session at BMW, the key and car were paired but the remote locking didn't work because of the pre-existing issue.

I took a punt and replaced the driver's side actuator with a second-hand one and everything worked perfectly.

As far as I am aware the actuators in the R50 and R56 are the same - I've replaced both sides in both my R50 and R56. R56 much easier job!
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Not sure I'll help but here's my experience...

I only got one key with my 2002 R50 when I bought it 3 years ago and it was the spare key with no remote locking capability. Locking always worked up until a few months ago when the dash lock button stopped working and unlocking the driver's door no longer unlocked the passenger door, though it would lock it.

Anyhow I misplaced the key, and got it replaced through an insurance policy - only this paid out for a new remote key and coding - bonus!

New key was £120 from BMW and coding to the car was £80. Before they coded it to the car, what they were looking for for the remote locking to work subsequently was activation of the door locks from the dash toggle switch, in other words nothing to do with the mechanical action of the key in the door.

After the coding session at BMW, the key and car were paired but the remote locking didn't work because of the pre-existing issue.

I took a punt and replaced the driver's side actuator with a second-hand one and everything worked perfectly.

As far as I am aware the actuators in the R50 and R56 are the same - I've replaced both sides in both my R50 and R56. R56 much easier job!
I’ve heard the drivers door can be the reason why CL doesn’t work , don’t really get why but if it works . Locks work in every way except fob , but a drivers door actuator could be worth a shot .
I also read that a poor car battery might effect it , I’ve checked the battery on the car and it wasn’t great . I’ll change that next as it’s gone flat a couple of times .
Put a new battery in the car , thought I’d give the fob sync procedures ago . Wasn’t hopeful and didn’t work , one thing I noticed while messing around that when working the CL with the toggle a few times in a row it stopped working . Then a bit intermittent , would this maybe a sign the drivers door actuator is iffy or maybe the control unit in the foot well . I’m checking that next for any signs of lose connection or water ingress .
another thing that got me wondering is the drivers door window has spells of not working , I thought it was the motor mechanism but maybe it’s the control unit or possibly wiring . Bad earth maybe ?
And a question , when pushing the lock button down on the drivers door . Should it lock the rest of the car ?
When pushing down the driver's side lock in my R50, it doesn't lock the car - just the driver's door, same in my R56.

My R50 is the same as yours in that if I use the toggle a few times it stops working. Not sure if it always did this as it's not something you do in everyday normal usage - only when you are testing it, so I'd be innterested in what you find out in that respect!
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When pushing down the driver's side lock in my R50, it doesn't lock the car - just the driver's door, same in my R56.

My R50 is the same as yours in that if I use the toggle a few times it stops working. Not sure if it always did this as it's not something you do in everyday normal usage - only when you are testing it, so I'd be innterested in what you find out in that respect!
I’m determined to get to the bottom of it , read a lot of threads with similar problems . Could well end up needing programming , but plan to try anything I can .
Probably way off , but wondering if a black box could interfere with the central locking
Just read that the central locking should auto lock when setting off, even with the earlier models like mine . Is this right , as mine doesn’t
I would try replacing the door actuator. Drivers side controls the system. Simple job to do. Follow this guidance: 2001-2006 Mini Cooper Lock Actuator Replacement (2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006) - iFixit Repair Guide
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I would try replacing the door actuator. Drivers side controls the system. Simple job to do. Follow this guidance: 2001-2006 Mini Cooper Lock Actuator Replacement (2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006) - iFixit Repair Guide
Brilliant thank you , been looking at videos but nothing as clear as that .
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