[sidetrek]

My 09 clubman s will not start when cold without depressing the gas pedal. Once it does start, I have to feather the gas to keep it running as it misfires. You can hear the popping from the exhaust. Once it gets a little warm, it goes into limp mode, (half filled engine light) and have to restart until hot, then it runs great! Replaced the coil packs, plugs and the fuel filter. the only codes are random misfire, HELP!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[JTownPBX]

Are their any other sounds going on while in limp mode. Any tappa tappa,tappa! It sounds like it could be anything.
What I would be focused on is first of any work you did under the hood recently.
Then what I would do is check for any air leaks in the intake system. That backfiring was something I brought up a while back here. And it was deep in the engine(teflon seals around the high pressure fuel injectors)Seals that go into the head for the fuel injectors.
Air leak is what I think it would be first. A turbo system needs to be contained from the outside air pretty much.
It could also be your vanos solenoid that is clogged up. Or a sticky throttle body. If you were running any additives or use K&N air filter oil to recharge your air filter it will get inbetween the throttle butterfly and bore (on the rod that holds buttlerfly).
Your map sensor in the intake charge pipe that leads from the intercooler to the intake could be going out.
Check to make sure all the bolts on the valve cover are torqued down proper, and also check to see that the fuel return vent valve hose that goes from the valve cover to the intake is not cracked. You may need to pull the valve cover and make sure the underside of the valve cover neck that the fuel return hose goes on is not cracked at the point where it is connected to the valve cover.
Air leak and it's associated components; meaning sensors that have to do with air and pressure. Then after all that is been checked and completed I would buy a O2 sensor. seeing how they are expensive these days.

 

[sidetrek]

Are their any other sounds going on while in limp mode. Any tappa tappa,tappa! It sounds like it could be anything.
What I would be focused on is first of any work you did under the hood recently.
Then what I would do is check for any air leaks in the intake system. That backfiring was something I brought up a while back here. And it was deep in the engine(teflon seals around the high pressure fuel injectors)Seals that go into the head for the fuel injectors.
Air leak is what I think it would be first. A turbo system needs to be contained from the outside air pretty much.
It could also be your vanos solenoid that is clogged up. Or a sticky throttle body. If you were running any additives or use K&N air filter oil to recharge your air filter it will get inbetween the throttle butterfly and bore (on the rod that holds buttlerfly).
Your map sensor in the intake charge pipe that leads from the intercooler to the intake could be going out.
Check to make sure all the bolts on the valve cover are torqued down proper, and also check to see that the fuel return vent valve hose that goes from the valve cover to the intake is not cracked. You may need to pull the valve cover and make sure the underside of the valve cover neck that the fuel return hose goes on is not cracked at the point where it is connected to the valve cover.
Air leak and it's associated components; meaning sensors that have to do with air and pressure. Then after all that is been checked and completed I would buy a O2 sensor. seeing how they are expensive these days.

I just replaced the valve cover, the vanos solenoid, the coils, the plugs, the fuel filter, and deleted the sound generator and put in a straight pipe, and an oil catch can. None of these things have made a difference. I did a seafoam treatment and it seemed to run ALOT better...until it got cold then back to the same old starting problem and will only stay running if I give it throttle. I only run premium gas in it, 92 octane, always have.

 

[JTownPBX]

Down pipe was that done in the radiator service support position. If so things I would remember is 1. that the AC compressor connector is unplugged and re plugged. Also is that lower air hose coming off the intercooler is attached to the intercooler nice and tight.
I have put mine in radiator service support position many times. I know I can get away with only taking apart the connection of the air plumbing at the passenger wheel point where the plastic pipe with the map sensor and the rubber piping that heads toward the intake MANIFOLD.
But that still stretch's the rubber pipe at it's connection to the front support that holds the radiator and intercooler,ac cooler,etc....Meaning it's a good thing to check when completing the job. That the rubber air hose connections are attached tightly.
NOW. installing a oil catch can. I did that back in 2012. I have the NM version with the bung for the one area of the valve cover as well as the unit. Man I loved it. I drove all over the southwest back then and it works perfect. Every morning wake up and check out of the motel. Go out to the car pop the bonnet. Empty one perfect cup worth's of slather out of the catch can. Then go get a Java Dave's(if I'm in Albuquerque).
The thing is that really just hardcore highway driving is where they do best. Keeping a solid amount of vacuum in there at all time. I still have my catch can, but only use the bung while I drive around town. Not that you can't just something to be aware of.
And that still does not answer your problem here today.
Deleting the sound generator would not give you that much of a problem. Just make sure the hose and piping are attached at the connection points nice and tight.
Is there a tapping sound under the bonnet? When you changed the valve cover is the upper guide rail in order and firmly connected to the cylinder head?
I guess the way you tell me kind of makes it more scary. That sounds like a timing change.
Your saying that it starts then dies immediately, and that it will do it repetitively.
Then it will snap right out of it; and be fine.
I would pull my Vacuum pump if it did something weird to that level. If the Vacuum pump is binding up it could seize.
How hard does it fight before it die's is the question; Is it bucking hard?
On a off note. You can purchase a Foxwell OBD2 code reader and possibly get a code off of it!
You changed the vanos solenoid. And that did not make any difference. Therefore looking into the idea that the turbo charger not is getting the right amount of oil and coolant is out of the question. Because it did not solve anything. Sooooo. Your valve cover installation may not have been done proper. Did you use O-ring silicon grease for the valve cover gasket? No leaks! means no leaks at every available connection to which is undone and most are plastic on connections making it o.k. To use on most everything in the car. I would recheck your connections. I would check the condition of the wastegate actuator on the turbo by way of removing the turbo shield. I know it gonna look rough anyway. But when that actuator starts having a problem it will either have problems opening or closing. And while your there adjust your actuator rod one thread toward the drivers side and then lock the other nut on the other side of the wastegate door lever that the rod is attached to in place.
One thread gives 2psi extra of boost or 360degees of a turn of the that nut. And for a high mileage car your's puts it back in new like order. To make up for the compression loss over time. If your car has over 60 thousand miles? That may help your problem. But if that actuator is bad it's not gonna. It has a rubber diaphragm inside of the metal capsule that the rod goes into. And that rubber can wear out under that heat over time.

 

[mike1967]

need to scan it and will prob find a code for p2880 this will relate to high pressure fuel pump, very common issue with them, what happens the seals go hard inside and allow air in and fuel to drain back the tank ,,hence why after car ran for 5 minutes rough and it will be fine rest of day normally until they get to the very last days of working where it will mis all the time, heads diving it like this can cause a lean out this will raise the temps in combustion process and this can and will cause piston or and valve damage and also make the valve stem seals go hard from very high temps,,, i have stripped a few like this and all the valve turn purple from excess heat and stem seals get welted and leak oil and destroy valve seats

 

[sidetrek]

need to scan it and will prob find a code for p2880 this will relate to high pressure fuel pump, very common issue with them, what happens the seals go hard inside and allow air in and fuel to drain back the tank ,,hence why after car ran for 5 minutes rough and it will be fine rest of day normally until they get to the very last days of working where it will mis all the time, heads diving it like this can cause a lean out this will raise the temps in combustion process and this can and will cause piston or and valve damage and also make the valve stem seals go hard from very high temps,,, i have stripped a few like this and all the valve turn purple from excess heat and stem seals get welted and leak oil and destroy valve seats

Mike, From the get go, I felt like it was a fuel starvation problem, hence the new fuel filter. The only reason I didn't replace the fuel pump was the cost. I guess that will be my next move. What baffles me is how great it runs once it is warmed up! Since there is no temp guage,#+*@%!, so I can't tell exactly where it happens. I'll get it started, it pops and struggles for a minute then evens out and goes into limp mode. Then once it is warm, I restart it and it runs perfect!

 

[mike1967]

Mike, From the get go, I felt like it was a fuel starvation problem, hence the new fuel filter. The only reason I didn't replace the fuel pump was the cost. I guess that will be my next move. What baffles me is how great it runs once it is warmed up! Since there is no temp guage,#+*@%!, so I can't tell exactly where it happens. I'll get it started, it pops and struggles for a minute then evens out and goes into limp mode. Then once it is warm, I restart it and it runs perfect!

what happens is seals in pump break down and allow air in to the pump chamber this allow fuel to drain back to tank hence why when its run for long enough air comes out the injectors ie the misfires and pops and bangs from running to lean,then after a few minutes the air clears and car runs fine again, common fault code will be p2880,, there is a guy in uk who refurbs them £139 he is on ebay might be worth asking him if would if you pay post refurb yours etc, link below

1.6 THP High pressure fuel pump Mini Cooper. Peugeot RCZ. Repair service | eBay

Or take a chance on a used second hand unit including the ones from China. As well as service and repair. On receipt of it,we will service and repair it back to its original working condition.

www.ebay.co.uk

the psa thp is same engine and pump,

 

[sidetrek]

what happens is seals in pump break down and allow air in to the pump chamber this allow fuel to drain back to tank hence why when its run for long enough air comes out the injectors ie the misfires and pops and bangs from running to lean,then after a few minutes the air clears and car runs fine again, common fault code will be p2880,, there is a guy in uk who refurbs them £139 he is on ebay might be worth asking him if would if you pay post refurb yours etc, link below

1.6 THP High pressure fuel pump Mini Cooper. Peugeot RCZ. Repair service | eBay

Or take a chance on a used second hand unit including the ones from China. As well as service and repair. On receipt of it,we will service and repair it back to its original working condition.

www.ebay.co.uk

the psa thp is same engine and pump,

Mike, When this started I took it down to the auto parts store and the only codes that came up were random misfires. There were no other codes related to fuel pressure or anything. I need a code reader to figure it out I think.

 

[sidetrek]

I have read almost everything I can find about the way my mini is behaving and my first thoughts were correct I believe. I THINK IT IS THE HIGH PRESSURE FUEL PUMP. When this first happened I bought a new fuel filter and started looking at fuel pump prices. I will buy a new pump this week and let you know what happens. Thanks to everyone who contributed!! Jonnyman, and Mike1967, Thanks guys, your input helped.

 

[JTownPBX]

I sure hope your mini cooper is doing good. I myself have had problems with mine today. Back to having to rig up my windshield washer pump.