I do not like the harsh ride on my Cooper S with Dunlop runflats. Is there a noticable difference in ride quaslity in changing to non runflats. How about implications if I get a puncture with no spare. I am sure many on here will have asked the same questions and may have personal experience.
I changed to Pirelli PZeros and the change was remarkable! It's quieter, comfier and handles better. I keep a can of tyre weald and a small compresser in case I get a puncture.
I got Eagle F1's on mine. 100 times better than RF's and better economically too.
Runflat - You get a puncture, drive on it for 50 miles and then have to replace it at a cost in excess of £150
Non Runflat - You get a puncture, fill it with Tyre Weld, drive on it for 50 miles and then replace it at a cost of £115 or less depending on tyre choice
Changed from 17' Pirelli eufori@ to 16' Yokohama Advan 07.
Difference is night and day.
17' rft felt harsh and bumpy.
16' is agile, quick and smooth. This was also noticed by my partner as mostly occupies the passenger seat.
As for the puncture issue. Bought a can of tire weld at a accesoiry shop.
Im running on 215x40x17 Toyos and I find the ride much improved and they seem to have more grip than the runflats. As said by others in here just carry a can of tyre weld and a compressor
I personally carry two cans of Tyre Weld, just in case. I don't have a compressor, the weld cans have enough compressed gas to let you limp to the nearest petrol station.
I changed to Pirelli PZeros and the change was remarkable! It's quieter, comfier and handles better. I keep a can of tyre weald and a small compresser in case I get a puncture.
I've already got a compressor from Halfrauds, will this do the job (having bought the tyre weld from BMW). I ask because I phoned BMW to get the mobility kit, and they asked if I want the cans, the compressor or the lot.
In answer to the original post, the consequences of replacing runflats are:
1. better ride, more grip, less noise (i've got Pirelli Pzero's btw, £188 for 2)
2. 50% less cost and 100% less hassle when you get a puncture!
I got Eagle F1's on mine. 100 times better than RF's and better economically too.
Runflat - You get a puncture, drive on it for 50 miles and then have to replace it at a cost in excess of £150
Non Runflat - You get a puncture, fill it with Tyre Weld, drive on it for 50 miles and then replace it at a cost of £115 or less depending on tyre choice
Also about to get rid of my runflats, nothing but a pain !
Question : Does using the tyre weld total the tyre is it then beyond repair, if its something like a nail ?
as far as I know yes, but then runflats need to be binned if you drive on them with a flat something to do with the sidewalls collapsing as you drive further, that's why you can only drive on them for 50 miles or summat daft.
Pzero nero don't fit on the standard size Mini alloy, so they use assimetricos instead. Both good tyres, but the assimetircos are directional, the Neros aren't, so if you wanted to you could rotate the tyres to promote even tyre wear. I think the smallest Nero you can get is a 215, where as the standard 7" width S-lities wear a 205 section tyre.
I went from OEM 16" x-lites with RFs to 17" R90 replicas and 17" "regular" tyres and the ride is still better than with the smaller sized RFs. Honestly, don't let it stress you.
I have a can of tyre weld stuff too. I do need to get myself a portable air compresser though.
I went on a 1000+ kilometre run last weekend with my OEM wheel/tyre combo just for the heck of it. I had only done 300kms on my 16" OEMs and was interested to see what they were like. I shouldn't have bothered. My 17" combo is far, far superior. At one stage driving up Mt Hotham (30kms of serious tight and steep twisties) I just about needed to stop as the RFs got too hot. It was like driving on sponges. And they squeal like a 5 year old!
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