MINI Cooper Forum banner

2 issues

418 Views 3 Replies 2 Participants Last post by  lipwak
I have a 2011 hardtop. Low mileage, just under 70k. I drive it not much more than once a week. Up to date on all maintenance.

1) This has happened at least once before, I rapidly accelerate and the alternator light stays on. Earlier, I suddenly brake and the brake light stays on. I’m going to take it to the shop soon to be sure the alternator light isn’t a sign a of a bad alternator but in the past, it has been cured by resetting the iight. Same with the brake light. These seem to be a Mini quirk. I can see the brake light being stuck on; the sensor probably got stuck this time but is has happened before.

2) For a few years, I have noticed that the car will stutter sometimes when going from 1st to 2nd gear. (It’s an automatic.) It’s more likely to happen and be more noticeable when I am going up a hill.

This might be related: In the past the check engine light has stayed on because the #3 cylinder was misfiring. Resetting the light has fixed it. I am also due for new spark plugs. Perhaps that will fix it? If not, I am probably looking at some transmission work.

What do you think?
1 - 4 of 4 Posts
In my opinion I would address all the engine issues then address the transmission if there is problems after that. When I rebuilt my engine the transmission had snapped right back into shape with it's classic N14 9nm of extra power after 3rd gear. Which has to do the complexity of the transmission and engine cooperation. It did not do that for a year or so before I rebuilt the engine.
Before in fact it did feel like it had a transmission issue. Not all the time, just in place in town when I was driving it. You talked about going uphill, that's what reminded me.
I would turn left up a slight grade and the trans would act funny going into the next gear.
Anyway it was not the transmission it was the poor performance of the engine.
Although you have a newer N18 engine. You do have the same transmission and lower engine block platform.
Poor performing engine. Not that it does not run but a 1.6 does all it can and the tolerance in the computer system for things hinge on the idea; in my opinion that: for EXAMPLE: a sensor is not bad but not operating at 100 percent. Not that it is an item that was bought a year ago. but like spark plugs yes. I used to replace those three times a year when the car would burn about a 1/4 quart every 4 hour drive. Or 1 quart every long summer vacation. Not going overboard and replacing all the coils only learning to replace and swap coils with a extra set of four that I had. over time some coils did not work anymore. but the point is I did not need to replace all four.
To sum up I would look for original sensors on the car that are known for going out that have not gone out at this point and replace them. I would check the intake Vanos Solenoid.
And make sure it is not all clogged up. Checking the exhaust Vanos Solenoid after that.
I would not run additives like fuel cleaner or octane boost through the fuel system. As this can have a bad effect on the Mini Coopers catalytic convertors. I would not replace the O2 sensors as they don't tend to go out like older cars. This situation has to do with the Catalytic instead And that is only IF ADDITIVES WERE USED.
A new catalytic is expensive. And if the car runs good for the most part that would not be the problem.
See less See more
Thanks! It's going to the shop tomorrow.
Back from the shop. They replaced the sparkplugs and the coil. Now I hardly notice any shifting at all! They also cleared the alternator light but were unable to clear the brake light. They think it's a problem with the sensor in the rear wheel (right rear?). I can live with that. The brakes are in great shape. They were replaced about 3 years ago. I guess I am a light touch on them (and don't drive the car much.)
1 - 4 of 4 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.