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Hello all,

This is my first post so please be gentle. I'm hoping that there is a wealth of knowledge here to help me fix my MCS. I'll explain my current situation, apologies if its a bit long!

I purchased my MCS in Feb this year as a bit of a project. I just didn't know how much of a project it would actually turn out to be!

I checked the car over and it seemed okay for its age, the previous owner said that "one of the control arm bushings needed changing prior to its next MOT". I considered this and thought that I could handle the job. I got it up on the ramps and it became apparent very quickly that it was more than just a bushing that needed changing... Over the last weekend I have changed the following:

inner and outer control arm ball joints,
rear lower bushings (powerflex black),
anti roll bar links,
track rod end links,
front speed sensors,
front wheel bearings,
the drive shafts.
I still need to change the lower engine mount (it has deep cracks in it and can hear it "knock" on acceleration) and I'm thinking if the lower has gone, the upper must need a change as well.

This is not my question though, after a thoroughly enjoyable weekend under my MCS all jobs completed. I drove (reversed) off the ramps and out of the garage. Once out of the garage I turned the wheels to the left to drive out of the car park, I felt resistance on the steering wheel (not at full lock) so I didn't want to force or brake anything, so I started to take the lock off and drove forward. As I did there was an audible click from the steering wheel/steering column and the air bag light has illuminated.

I have tried the following;
The obligatory 'Google Search' and it's awash with clips of how to remove the airbag and/or steering wheel.
Rang my local BMW garage, the only thing they can do is bring it in and do a diagnostic test (£90) not including any work required.

I do not have a diagnostic tool (yet) so can't give you a fault code, I have just purchased the iCarsoft BMM v2.0 for BMW's & Mini's (states that it will read and erase manufacturer management codes), it should be arriving this week. Once I have done the diagnosis I will update this thread. I'm sure there will be plenty of faults once it has done its diagnostics. In short, has anyone else had this fault or knows of this fault and any possible solutions, I have checked other threads on this site, but they are all to do with the under seat SRS connections.

I'm looking forward to any help that can be given.

Many thanks in advance, Simon.
 

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Registered
Joined
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6,872 Posts
Hello all,

This is my first post so please be gentle. I'm hoping that there is a wealth of knowledge here to help me fix my MCS. I'll explain my current situation, apologies if its a bit long!

I purchased my MCS in Feb this year as a bit of a project. I just didn't know how much of a project it would actually turn out to be!

I checked the car over and it seemed okay for its age, the previous owner said that "one of the control arm bushings needed changing prior to its next MOT". I considered this and thought that I could handle the job. I got it up on the ramps and it became apparent very quickly that it was more than just a bushing that needed changing... Over the last weekend I have changed the following:

inner and outer control arm ball joints,
rear lower bushings (powerflex black),
anti roll bar links,
track rod end links,
front speed sensors,
front wheel bearings,
the drive shafts.
I still need to change the lower engine mount (it has deep cracks in it and can hear it "knock" on acceleration) and I'm thinking if the lower has gone, the upper must need a change as well.

This is not my question though, after a thoroughly enjoyable weekend under my MCS all jobs completed. I drove (reversed) off the ramps and out of the garage. Once out of the garage I turned the wheels to the left to drive out of the car park, I felt resistance on the steering wheel (not at full lock) so I didn't want to force or brake anything, so I started to take the lock off and drove forward. As I did there was an audible click from the steering wheel/steering column and the air bag light has illuminated.

I have tried the following;
The obligatory 'Google Search' and it's awash with clips of how to remove the airbag and/or steering wheel.
Rang my local BMW garage, the only thing they can do is bring it in and do a diagnostic test (£90) not including any work required.

I do not have a diagnostic tool (yet) so can't give you a fault code, I have just purchased the iCarsoft BMM v2.0 for BMW's & Mini's (states that it will read and erase manufacturer management codes), it should be arriving this week. Once I have done the diagnosis I will update this thread. I'm sure there will be plenty of faults once it has done its diagnostics. In short, has anyone else had this fault or knows of this fault and any possible solutions, I have checked other threads on this site, but they are all to do with the under seat SRS connections.

I'm looking forward to any help that can be given.

Many thanks in advance, Simon.
good luck with a app from my past experience they dont cover as deep as needed to be much worth for repairing anything as will all do eobd and not P-codes Pcodes are dealer only codes, this all said below is two links for two diagnostics that will do all this and a lot more a lot of people on here have bought them and all have said thanks for the heads up,
autocom cdp plus
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2018-TCS-CDP-Pro-Plus-Auto-OBD2-Car-Truck-Scanner-Diagnostic-Tool-for-Autocom/292722479779?hash=item44279e92a3:g:TrcAAOSwUgdbfiTR
the other is called wow wurth snooper AA and RAC use same software i believe
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Latest-WOW-Wurth-Snooper-Bluetooth-OBD2-Diagnostic-Tool-scanner-for-Cars-Trucks/362535489103?hash=item5468cc8e4f:g:lzMAAOSwwPRcQCpZ
i have both as i do a lot of newer cars and the snooper goes up to 2017 also its handy it scans all the controllers in one go, where the autocom you scan each one as you go as such, the autocom has a good live data use, where the snooper dont, but the snooper has loads of wiring diagrams and loads of other stuff, with both its still well under £100 and theres nothing you cant work with,
 
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