2007 Cooper S

Thanks for the replies folks and certainly gives me something to look at. If the timing chain hasn’t been done what sort of cost would I be looking at to get it done?

Pretty sure that is a recall item. And can be replaced for free! At the dealership.

it isn't

Not in the UK.

If you do it yourself it should only cost about a hundred and fifty for the timing chain kit. And about 25 dollars U.S. for the Seal. And about 140 dollars for the two sets of timing cam lock kits; To cross reference with. About 30 dollars U.S. for the oil pan gasket. So you can remove the oil pan and oil pump bolt to get in there and clean everything from the snout of the crankshaft(oil pump gear) with brake cleaner. If you advantageous buy a new oil pump gear(19 dollars U.S.) or sensibly tighten the TTY bolt over again a smidge tighter then required torque.
Get in there on the way out after completely the timing job with a new serpentine belt 28 dollars U.S.
So in the U.S. I know it would come up to about.
381 dollars U.S. give or take you can find seals here for as low as 13 dollars. but I forgot to add the price of brake cleaner for 8 dollars. Also you will need a Mini special tool
and a set of E Sockets.
Set of two jack stands floor jack to hold the engine at the brace point with the oil pan on or off with 1 inch pieces of wood between the jack stand and lower part of the engine on the outside case from the crankshaft gear assembly considering your upper engine mount is off and you need to support the engine or you could add this part to the running total. That stuff should be ordinary stuff like a socket set with a 1/2 drive to add to that and a 1/2 to 3/8th adapter. and a 3/8 quarter sized extension not a long or a short half the length of a short standard extension.
That would cover the entire job. As far as parts and tools needed. The valve cover gasket I would reuse and use
to grease it up and install it again to prevent leaks.
Getting the car into the service support position will take simple tools like a screwdriver common sockets 16 and 14mm,10mm,8mm for the ground wire to the coil packs and a 10mm wrench. Maybe a mallet or dead blow hammer to lightly tap the bumper forward after removing the bolts in order to slide it forward as per radiator service support position would require.
Myself I would put electrical tape on the inside of the crank sprocket SOCKET that is 18mm. Use a black marker after torquing that bolt and mark the corner of the bolt hex. Then wrench the bolt 180 degree's from where that mark was. And the only other thing Not in the book I would do is after torquing the exhaust camshaft bolt I would give it 135 degree's and not 90 degrees and not 180 degree's 135. And use the special tool during the tightening of the crank sprocket as something to hold the balancer hub stationary as the crank bolt is being turned making sure it keeps from kiltering(a floorjack under the end of the handle resting on it; so when you wrench it does not do anything but stop the tool in turn stopping the hub. Just don't let it kilter the hub. If you have torqued proper it shouldn't just watch it's geometry.
So you might want to add a torque angle socket tool to go with that.
About 450 dollars but the tools pay for themselves if you already have a small tool setup anyway.

four jack stands by bad!

Thanks for that detailed reply but I’ve never messed around with engine timing so will get a garage to sort it.

JTownPBX said:

That's very smart about the HPFP and maybe even the vacuum pump would need a squirt or two of oil from pulling the valve cover before really taking off anywhere. Those things get scored up pretty bad when they don't have proper oiling or inspection. Dicey to say the least.
Biggest thing is getting over the hill with the first stock timing chains they had on them. After that the next timing chains can do so much better as they are revised when purchased in kit form. To include a new tensioner and well the guides themselves are revised and no longer look like this.
View attachment 279752
first series timing tensioner guide rail; stock on mini cooper R56 turbo N14 engine.
View attachment 279753
View of the same guide different angle that was revise in the first series guide rails N14 turbo.
View attachment 279754
Finally the area that fell in question with broken pieces of the guide rail on mini coopers that had timing that failed. This has four side rails on it total. Revised kits and guide rails are only sold with two side rails. leaving less of a chance of pieces breaking off during a loose timing chain scenario.
Point is It's a really nice car to have with the revised kit. And actual maintenance. Plugs, oil, etc...

Click to expand...

your saying they come without the top guide now, if so I bought 3 sets in December and all these had the top guide with the kit the reason they have a top guide is to stop chain from lash when vanos sprockets rotate etc,, should have a top guide,

JTownPBX said:

If you do it yourself it should only cost about a hundred and fifty for the timing chain kit. And about 25 dollars U.S. for the Seal. And about 140 dollars for the two sets of timing cam lock kits; To cross reference with. About 30 dollars U.S. for the oil pan gasket. So you can remove the oil pan and oil pump bolt to get in there and clean everything from the snout of the crankshaft(oil pump gear) with brake cleaner. If you advantageous buy a new oil pump gear(19 dollars U.S.) or sensibly tighten the TTY bolt over again a smidge tighter then required torque.
Get in there on the way out after completely the timing job with a new serpentine belt 28 dollars U.S.
So in the U.S. I know it would come up to about.
381 dollars U.S. give or take you can find seals here for as low as 13 dollars. but I forgot to add the price of brake cleaner for 8 dollars. Also you will need a Mini special tool

Crankshaft Holder Tool

Holds the crankshaft, useful in timing chain service

www.ecstuning.com

and a set of E Sockets.

https://www.amazon.com/14pcs-Female-Torx-Socket-drive/dp/B089B268KL/ref=asc_df_B089B268KL/?tag=bingshoppinga-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=&hvpos=&hvnetw=o&hvrand=&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4584345025545622&psc=1

Set of two jack stands floor jack to hold the engine at the brace point with the oil pan on or off with 1 inch pieces of wood between the jack stand and lower part of the engine on the outside case from the crankshaft gear assembly considering your upper engine mount is off and you need to support the engine or you could add this part to the running total. That stuff should be ordinary stuff like a socket set with a 1/2 drive to add to that and a 1/2 to 3/8th adapter. and a 3/8 quarter sized extension not a long or a short half the length of a short standard extension.

MINI Cooper Block Holding Tool

Used to hold the engine via the alternator to the frame

www.ecstuning.com

That would cover the entire job. As far as parts and tools needed. The valve cover gasket I would reuse and use

Super Lube O-Ring Silicone Grease - 3oz Tube-CW85499

www.tacticalwholesalers.com

to grease it up and install it again to prevent leaks.
Getting the car into the service support position will take simple tools like a screwdriver common sockets 16 and 14mm,10mm,8mm for the ground wire to the coil packs and a 10mm wrench. Maybe a mallet or dead blow hammer to lightly tap the bumper forward after removing the bolts in order to slide it forward as per radiator service support position would require.
Myself I would put electrical tape on the inside of the crank sprocket SOCKET that is 18mm. Use a black marker after torquing that bolt and mark the corner of the bolt hex. Then wrench the bolt 180 degree's from where that mark was. And the only other thing Not in the book I would do is after torquing the exhaust camshaft bolt I would give it 135 degree's and not 90 degrees and not 180 degree's 135. And use the special tool during the tightening of the crank sprocket as something to hold the balancer hub stationary as the crank bolt is being turned making sure it keeps from kiltering(a floorjack under the end of the handle resting on it; so when you wrench it does not do anything but stop the tool in turn stopping the hub. Just don't let it kilter the hub. If you have torqued proper it shouldn't just watch it's geometry.
So you might want to add a torque angle socket tool to go with that.
About 450 dollars but the tools pay for themselves if you already have a small tool setup anyway.

Click to expand...

the camshaft bolts at meant to be done 20nm plus 90 plus 90 failure to do this will end up bent valves,
crankshaft bolt 40nm plus 120 degrees ,, also dont need a holding tool except the lock pin that goes in to crankshaft its designed to be used,, if use a holding tool like above its possible to throw timing out, really important people know the correct figures on this as the only thing that holds the sprockets is the force on those bolts and the force that is preloaded on a stretch bolt