If you do it yourself it should only cost about a hundred and fifty for the timing chain kit. And about 25 dollars U.S. for the Seal. And about 140 dollars for the two sets of timing cam lock kits; To cross reference with. About 30 dollars U.S. for the oil pan gasket. So you can remove the oil pan and oil pump bolt to get in there and clean everything from the snout of the crankshaft(oil pump gear) with brake cleaner. If you advantageous buy a new oil pump gear(19 dollars U.S.) or sensibly tighten the TTY bolt over again a smidge tighter then required torque.
Get in there on the way out after completely the timing job with a new serpentine belt 28 dollars U.S.
So in the U.S. I know it would come up to about.
381 dollars U.S. give or take you can find seals here for as low as 13 dollars. but I forgot to add the price of brake cleaner for 8 dollars. Also you will need a Mini special tool
Holds the crankshaft, useful in timing chain service
www.ecstuning.com
and a set of E Sockets.
Set of two jack stands floor jack to hold the engine at the brace point with the oil pan on or off with 1 inch pieces of wood between the jack stand and lower part of the engine on the outside case from the crankshaft gear assembly considering your upper engine mount is off and you need to support the engine or you could add this part to the running total. That stuff should be ordinary stuff like a socket set with a 1/2 drive to add to that and a 1/2 to 3/8th adapter. and a 3/8 quarter sized extension not a long or a short half the length of a short standard extension.
Used to hold the engine via the alternator to the frame
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That would cover the entire job. As far as parts and tools needed. The valve cover gasket I would reuse and use
www.tacticalwholesalers.com
to grease it up and install it again to prevent leaks.
Getting the car into the service support position will take simple tools like a screwdriver common sockets 16 and 14mm,10mm,8mm for the ground wire to the coil packs and a 10mm wrench. Maybe a mallet or dead blow hammer to lightly tap the bumper forward after removing the bolts in order to slide it forward as per radiator service support position would require.
Myself I would put electrical tape on the inside of the crank sprocket SOCKET that is 18mm. Use a black marker after torquing that bolt and mark the corner of the bolt hex. Then wrench the bolt 180 degree's from where that mark was. And the only other thing Not in the book I would do is after torquing the exhaust camshaft bolt I would give it 135 degree's and not 90 degrees and not 180 degree's 135. And use the special tool during the tightening of the crank sprocket as something to hold the balancer hub stationary as the crank bolt is being turned making sure it keeps from kiltering(a floorjack under the end of the handle resting on it; so when you wrench it does not do anything but stop the tool in turn stopping the hub. Just don't let it kilter the hub. If you have torqued proper it shouldn't just watch it's geometry.
So you might want to add a torque angle socket tool to go with that.
About 450 dollars but the tools pay for themselves if you already have a small tool setup anyway.