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2007 Mini cooper s

1393 Views 6 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  mike1967
hi! i’m new to this group, i purchased my mini back last year. i’m wanting to get it tuned. what’s your pros and cons and what tunes. i have only had a new exhaust put on (milltek non resonated cat back exhaust) other than that, everything is stock.
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I would get the aftermarket alta spring for the diverter valve, or just the new re vision diverter valve. Always update to the latest diverter valve. Here's the alta spring
which would be a noticeable upgrade also the cheapest:
and here is the latest diverter valve, the difference is not that noticeable, but it is the correct procedure and item:
After that I would get the aftermarket intercooler upgrade as they can hold 2 psi more of turbo boost and do not get heat soaked as much.
*After that I would go to the actuator arm and decrease the distance of the wastegate door accordingly. To add the extra two psi pounds of boost. And if the car has more than 70 thousand miles I would increase another 2psi pounds of boost, in order to make up for general wear and compression loss, as recommended by most turbo charger pro's.
And in the end have a mini cooper operating exactly where it needs to be for the mileage or the performance upgrades without requiring any type of boost gauge or re map of the DME or ECU.

*for further instruction on increasing the turbo boost, inquire on this thread or on the forum at a later time. I personally can do a walk through.
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I would get the aftermarket alta spring for the diverter valve, or just the new re vision diverter valve. Always update to the latest diverter valve. Here's the alta spring
which would be a noticeable upgrade also the cheapest:
and here is the latest diverter valve, the difference is not that noticeable, but it is the correct procedure and item:
After that I would get the aftermarket intercooler upgrade as they can hold 2 psi more of turbo boost and do not get heat soaked as much.
*After that I would go to the actuator arm and decrease the distance of the wastegate door accordingly. To add the extra two psi pounds of boost. And if the car has more than 70 thousand miles I would increase another 2psi pounds of boost, in order to make up for general wear and compression loss, as recommended by most turbo charger pro's.
And in the end have a mini cooper operating exactly where it needs to be for the mileage or the performance upgrades without requiring any type of boost gauge or re map of the DME or ECU.

*for further instruction on increasing the turbo boost, inquire on this thread or on the forum at a later time. I personally can do a walk through.
Hi,

Would be interested to know how you do this? How much difference did the spring make as just bought it but not fitted yet?
I just read on the Mini DIY FB group that adjusting the WG actuator doesn't add more boost, it just adjusts when the boost hits. Can someone chime in on this?
all boost control is done by car ecu , if go messing around with the vnt the ecu will flag a mismatch and throw limp modes , only way forward is remap the map well around 201bhp at wheels is as far as i would push them on stock internals as will bend rods and smash pistons apart,, any mao will only be as good as the 02 sensors and cat will allow for as such and also state of timing chain another thing,, also make sure if rolling road mapped that engine oil is clean and at correct level as even that will effect the map,, ie crap oil oil or low oil effects how the vanos timing is mapped etc, as a good map will adjust fuel air and timing ,, if want over 210bhp then forged engine parts and hybrid turbo and a 4k bill at end of it common way forward, seen one on utube the other day at 280bhp at wheels even he said keeping gearbox intact was a mission lol
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Thanks Mike. This thread should be deleted. OP is throwing up info that could be costly lol.

On a different note, found the car was quart low last night which might have caused my issue I posted yesterday. Kicking myself for not checking that when I got the car 2 weeks ago doh!
Thanks Mike. This thread should be deleted. OP is throwing up info that could be costly lol.

On a different note, found the car was quart low last night which might have caused my issue I posted yesterday. Kicking myself for not checking that when I got the car 2 weeks ago doh!
i have addressed that on that post of yours ,, I know there many so called people who think they know it and clearly dont, and offer up info that can cause issues for people, do my best not to mislead anyone on anything and only answer what i know for sure after working on these cars for many years
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