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Discussion Starter #1
Engine momentarily cut out when accelerating, as if you have turned it off and on. Any ideas?

Thanks Ian
 

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need to scan it to have a chance of finding whats wrong, should have a stored code
 

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need to scan it to have a chance of finding whats wrong, should have a stored code
Hi Robo63, I have a 2008 Mini Cooper D and is experiencing exactly the same issue, its like a stall, zero power, then straight back to normal - can not happen for days, sometimes only when under hard acceleration or just when driving very gently - no Fault codes or EML, have cleaned the MAF sensor - which did help with smoother an more responsive engine but still 'stutters' every now and then.

I am thinking that there is a sudden fuel delivery issue - I would say its like suddenly taking your foot off the accelerator but its much more violent than that! - Considering Fuel Pressure regulator/sensor rather than the £500 high pressure fuel pump, which reading some threads suggests that the engine has to be dropped to get to it!!

Any one else experiences/solved an issue like this with the 1.6D 85Kw - w16/psa engine?

Hopefully I won't break down before I find an answer as without any sort of stored code it will be very hard to trace the issue as it is intermittent - I do have a fairly decent ODB scan tool with Mini downloaded to it so will see if I can record some live data on a drive and see if it hick-ups and is visible in the data stream.

Thanks in advance.

Andy
 

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hmmm sounds like one i've been involved in same thing totally on 1,6 psa clubman does the same thing its had wiring harness changed the vac system for turbo checked different boost solenoids fuel filter get no fault codes live data shows all fine and it intermittent, what the owner has noticed the throttle pedal it only does it when pushing hard on throttle so might be the variable controller it it is our next thing to try,, trouble is its intermittent and no codes so could be this as when they have a faulty it could just to the car seem like taking foot off the throttle maybe,
autcom cdp plus off ebay best cheapest scanner and live data can also code parts on to the car as well
Bluetooth TCS CDP+ Plus Autocom Car & Truck Auto OBD2 OBDII Diagnostic Tool UK | eBay
 

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Used the car last night and it seems to be getting worse ☹ - it is now starting to cut & jerk at any throttle input, but that seems to be an important bit of info. The car starts easily with no problem, it will idle and rev smoothly whilst stationary. It only happens when you load the engine and ask for torque to move the car forward. Does not stutter or stumble if coasting (not yet anyhow) Still no EML! As it is more frequently stuttering I can hear knocking now when it happens from the engine, like a misfire knock I guess. I am sure that it is a lack of fuel that makes it stutter - so like a sudden removal of the flow then it returns - on off on off but much more sudden than using the throttle. But that could be a faulty throttle body maybe? Because it starts no problem and revs ok whilst stationary I am beginning to think the fuel pump is not at fault.

Will keep you updated.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Sparking,

I'll be interested to see what you find, I haven't scanned ours yet too see if there are any codes. Ours can sound like a knock/pinking noise when it happens on hard accelerating. I have told the wife to change gear or reduce throttle position when she feels the power surge from turbo boost, which has sloved the problem temporarily. I did buy this car with the problem and on initial investigation found the turbo faulty, leaking lots of oil internaly . So thought this maybe the cause of the fault, but after turbo replacement, oil pickup, feed pipe, dpf removal, dpf and egr delete, the problem still persists.
When I get my new mini problem sorted, i'll revisit the issue. My sons 2009 1.4 mini one started with a misfire that turns out to be a damaged exhaust valve. I have this all stripped ready for reassembly, but have seen many conflicting timing/torque/angle settings for the timing chain, crank nut and vanos units. Can anyone help with correct procedure and setting?

Thanks in advance

Ian
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hi Mike,

Thanks for the info, much appreciated. I am also changing the timing chain, guides ect. Do you have crank pully bolt torque + degrees and in your experience whats the best sequence to set timing and tighten vanos and crank bolts?

Kind regards Ian
 

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i always set the timing up, then fully tighten the crank bolt, 40nm 110 degrees first, i use the lock pin in the timing kit to lock the crank its made for that,, then i do the exhaust cam shaft 20nm +90+90 or can just go +180 but i like to give bolt a rest as such, then same on inlet camshaft bolt.... YOU MUST USE A 27MM OPEN ENDED SPANNER TO HOLD THE CAMSHAFT WHILE DOING UP THE VANOS BOLTS NEVER USE THE SET LOCKS TO LEVER ON AS SUCH,,, the cam shafts have IN for inlet and EX for exhaust marked on them,, i always set them both with the long line as such shape on their fronts pointing to front of car,, that said they have no set positions but factory set like this if that makes sense ,,, just remember to check and recheck the timing before the final stretch on bolts ie the cam bolts the crank bolt dont matter as such, ie the locks should just fall in to pace, ALSO MUST ONLY EVER TURN ENGINE CLOCKWISE ONLY NEVER ANTI CLOCKWISE WILL MOVE TIMING AS WORK AGAINST THE SPRING TENSIONER
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks Mike,
I'm sure you have posted this many times. You mention do not turn anti clockwise against the tensioner, can I have the tensioner installed during the set up or the pre tensioner? Also I take it that this is all done with the top guide in place?

Thanks again
Ian
 

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Sparking,

I'll be interested to see what you find.

Thanks in advance

Ian
Mini has been fixed!
Get ready for this one...... Fuel filter!

First thing mechanic suggested - even though we replaced it last full service about 8 months 11K (when I bought the car) it has now done 116K miles. I did cambelt, water pump couple of front bushes and full service as soon asI got it and have had trouble free motoring since then until this.

I bought all the parts and i think the filter kit only cost £40 for Oil, Fuel, Cabin & Air filters - I see they want £50 for a genuine mini fuel filter!

As this is the W16 PSA 80KW engine it’s fitted to loads of cars from Peugeot, Citroen, Ford, Fiat, Volvo etc etc and found the part number and researched without the word mini and got a genuine BOSCH filter for £19! For a 208! Ha ha trying to rip you off because it says Mini in the title.

moral of the story, don’t cheap out on Fuel filters I guess.

Part number of branded OEM fuel filter is:

Bosch Fuel Filter N7006 0450907006

Hope this info helps someone else.

So, stuttering hesitation under load/accelerating - no fault codes, starts and idles no problem? Check fuel filter even if you replaced it fairly recently ??
 

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some right horror stories with fuel filters that are Chinese copy's one of those items that a genuine is by far the best option, when i answer to people faults i do take for granted that service items are all sorted and replaced on this kind of fault, as its always best to start at a point where service items have just been done etc, otherwise filters will change the live data info etc, you may also find you have had some dirty fuel from somewhere and chances are in a few 1000s miles might do it again until it cleans out,Bosch Fuel Filter is good brand
 

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Hi Mike,

Thanks for the info, much appreciated. I am also changing the timing chain, guides ect. Do you have crank pully bolt torque + degrees and in your experience whats the best sequence to set timing and tighten vanos and crank bolts?

Kind regards Ian
this is more to do with petrol prince engines, that said all engine have a direction or travel and should always only be turned like it, as some timing belt tensioners are spring loaded and will release pressure on the timing belt,, they deffo do with prince engines, i know one guy on here try'd timing his engine up on chain change kept going anti clockwise and rebuild the head 3 times until he re read what i said in very first post
 

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some right horror stories with fuel filters that are Chinese copy's one of those items that a genuine is by far the best option, when i answer to people faults i do take for granted that service items are all sorted and replaced on this kind of fault, as its always best to start at a point where service items have just been done etc, otherwise filters will change the live data info etc, you may also find you have had some dirty fuel from somewhere and chances are in a few 1000s miles might do it again until it cleans out,Bosch Fuel Filter is good brand
Hi Mike,

Indeed, the BOSCH filter has a 5 year warranty also so will probably out live the car.

Won’t be scrimping on fuel filters again in a hurry that’s for sure.

But when you think that a 50K service item has been done recently, your not thinking about the simple stuff - You live and learn I guess.

Thanks

Andy
 

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me personally i really dont like that time span on something like a fuel filter due to the issues it causes when gets blocked and the unnoticed effects, i tend to do my own around 20k just for piece of mind and also i i'm guilty of super market fuels on top of that,, do find when seafoam is used of any other injections system cleaner then filters tends to get blocked fast,
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Hi Mike,

Indeed, the BOSCH filter has a 5 year warranty also so will probably out live the car.

Won’t be scrimping on fuel filters again in a hurry that’s for sure.

But when you think that a 50K service item has been done recently, your not thinking about the simple stuff - You live and learn I guess.

Thanks

Andy
Hi Andy

Glad you've sorted it out, i'll be giving that a try as soon as the petrol one is sorted. That proving to be a pain! All back together now but still misfireing, i'll get a new set of plugs in it tomorrow and see what happens.

Cheers Ian
 

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I’m so pleased you posted this. I’ve had the same issue and (amongst other things) have changed the MAF sensor, EGR valve and had the injectors looked at, all to no avail. Who’d have thought it was the measly fuel filter causing all the issues? Changed it yesterday after having read this thread and it drives like a dream now. TFFT!
Thanks Robo63!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Glad you got your sorted, I got around to changing the fuel filter last weekend with a bosch filter, but to no avail, it still cuts out momentarily when accelerating. Does put a code up but not sure if it's related, any ideas Mike?

Code is 4195 Glow- plug relay, Supply, glow plugs.

Thanks Ian
 

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Code is 4195 Glow- plug relay, Supply, glow plugs. that would be the clue, so what happens is glow plugs fail and the ecu then will not passive regen the dpf filter filter then blocks up over time and cant be cleaned out due to ecu not allowing a passive regen,, so filter gets restricted this restricts the air flow and the maff fuels car according to air flow as well as temps, so engine prob runs hotter than normal as partially block dpf filter and temp sensor adds to this by leaning the fuelling to suit the how inlet temps as well,, think of a engine like a compressor if you restrict flow on inlet or exhaust its will have same effect and car ecu will fuel according to the flow as such,, so would fix the glow plug issues first, if car have done over 75.000 miles on its dpf filter worth sticking a element in,, or just bring it to a garage like where i work and delete it all and never have any of the baud issue them filter cause
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Hi Mike,

Thanks for the reply

That may have the case when I bought the car ss it had the fault when I bought it. But have removed the dpf and had the dpf and egr deleted, also replaced the turbo, oil pick up and feed pipe.
With regard the heater plug fault, it starts first turn and doesn't miss or white smoke when started from cold, as you would expect if a heater plug was out.

Regards Ian
 
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