pcv pipe broken maybe
2009 R56 Rough Idle when warm with a oil smell
My wife has a 2009 R56 Mini cooper Base hatchback with a automatic transmission. 2 Major jobs I did over the past year was I replaced the timing chain and this past summer I changed out the exhaust manifold catalytic converter.
So car runs fine when cold does not have a rough idle when stopped nor does it have an strong oil/exhaust smell, but when the car gets warm enough it will have a rough Idle and when it is doing this rough Idle you smell a strong oil/exhaust in the car.
So car runs fine when cold does not have a rough idle when stopped nor does it have an strong oil/exhaust smell, but when the car gets warm enough it will have a rough Idle and when it is doing this rough Idle you smell a strong oil/exhaust in the car.
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No one of the things i checked. The PCV is fine.pcv pipe broken maybe
oil filler cap if et with oil they tend to leak, another common one is vac pump ;leaks oil runs down on to exhaust if really bad leak,,, rocker cover rubber gasket maybe ,, in dark engine hot use a torch and see if can see any smoke fumes from anyway ,, might finds it got valve stem seals gone and burning oil perhaps
I am going to replace the PCV Valve Cover I did find oil inside the PCV pipe, also I have oil over flowing over the valve cover from the valve cover bolts on that side of the car I made sure they where on tightly and I am not going any tighter with the bolts.oil filler cap if et with oil they tend to leak, another common one is vac pump ;leaks oil runs down on to exhaust if really bad leak,,, rocker cover rubber gasket maybe ,, in dark engine hot use a torch and see if can see any smoke fumes from anyway ,, might finds it got valve stem seals gone and burning oil perhaps
rocker covers do fail and must be seals all way around, i always put two dads of sealant on the corners gearbox end ,, the crankcase must be sealed if its not will smell badly and can cause running issues as well
UPDATE: So I changed the PCV Valve cover and apparently the morons at the factory put the rubber gasket thing on upside down causing issues with my wife's car and that stopped the oil smell, but after driving it for about 40 miles or so we got a check engine light P0015 and the rough idle came back but thank god no oil smell. ((We did change out the Valve cover this past summer))
I know P0015 is a bad VVT but witch one is it the one on the front or the one in the back?
I know P0015 is a bad VVT but witch one is it the one on the front or the one in the back?
P0015 is the OBD-II generic code indicating the engine control module (ECM) has determined that the exhaust camshaft timing for bank 1 is more retarded than what the ECM has commanded it to be. The over-retarded timing condition can be during the advancing or retarding phase
thats the wording for it might be a vanos oil control solenoid,, its not a vvt controller as thats done by a steppa motor on rear of engine and alters the vavve lift ,
i would be checking timing chain before throwing parts at it, rule of thumb is change the chain kit every 60,000 miles on them keep them running right
thats the wording for it might be a vanos oil control solenoid,, its not a vvt controller as thats done by a steppa motor on rear of engine and alters the vavve lift ,
i would be checking timing chain before throwing parts at it, rule of thumb is change the chain kit every 60,000 miles on them keep them running right
I just changed the timing chain last year about 5,000 miles ago and the car ran fine until this past November about a year after I changed the timing chain.P0015 is the OBD-II generic code indicating the engine control module (ECM) has determined that the exhaust camshaft timing for bank 1 is more retarded than what the ECM has commanded it to be. The over-retarded timing condition can be during the advancing or retarding phase
thats the wording for it might be a vanos oil control solenoid,, its not a vvt controller as thats done by a steppa motor on rear of engine and alters the vavve lift ,
i would be checking timing chain before throwing parts at it, rule of thumb is change the chain kit every 60,000 miles on them keep them running right
Edit: what I witness when I come to a stop at a long traffic light that lasts about 5 minutes the car will run at 1000 RPM for a few seconds then slowly go down to about 500 RPM then the car will go into a rough idle then jump to 1200 RPM and slowly make it's way back down to 500RPM and repeat.
would check the vac pump on end of exhaust camshaft is not failing have seen them go jammed up and take chain out at worst
is the OBD-II generic code indicating the engine control module (ECM) has determined that the exhaust camshaft timing for bank 1 is more retarded than what the ECM has commanded it to be. The over-retarded timing condition can be during the advancing or retarding phase
thats the wording for it might be a vanos oil control solenoid,, its not a vvt controller as thats done by a steppa motor on rear of engine and alters the vavve lift ,
i would be checking timing chain before throwing parts at it, rule of thumb is change the chain kit every 60,000 miles on them keep them running right
would check the vac pump on end of exhaust camshaft is not failing have seen them go jammed up and take chain out at worst
I guess time for another timing chain I just changed the vacuum pump before making this thread. Not going with OEM equipment the timing chain did not last a year.would check the vac pump on end of exhaust camshaft is not failing have seen them go jammed up and take chain out at worst
would never fit anything other than febi or FAI or ultra parts kits have seen once a cheap chain kit i tried on ebay was all about cheap it turned up i sent it back again really narrow links, i buy al my parts now from motorparts direct get a good warranty on them as well worth paying a tad more over a counter to be honest, would relock the chain and check where and if stretched,, or has a sprocket moved did they use new stretch bolts etc , have seen where people dont replace the cam and crank bolts and after a while the sprockets slip as a pressure fit only by the boltI guess time for another timing chain I just changed the vacuum pump before making this thread. Not going with OEM equipment the timing chain did not last a year.
would never fit anything other than febi or FAI or ultra parts kits have seen once a cheap chain kit i tried on ebay was all about cheap it turned up i sent it back again really narrow links, i buy al my parts now from motorparts direct get a good warranty on them as well worth paying a tad more over a counter to be honest, would relock the chain and check where and if stretched,, or has a sprocket moved did they use new stretch bolts etc , have seen where people dont replace the cam and crank bolts and after a while the sprockets slip as a pressure fit only by the bolt
Welp after changing the front VVT the P0015 code went away but now I am getting P2187. I don't get this I just changed the PCV Valve and the PCV hose has no leeks.would never fit anything other than febi or FAI or ultra parts kits have seen once a cheap chain kit i tried on ebay was all about cheap it turned up i sent it back again really narrow links, i buy al my parts now from motorparts direct get a good warranty on them as well worth paying a tad more over a counter to be honest, would relock the chain and check where and if stretched,, or has a sprocket moved did they use new stretch bolts etc , have seen where people dont replace the cam and crank bolts and after a while the sprockets slip as a pressure fit only by the bolt
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