I was in a drive thru waiting to be served and my car just shut off didn’t even noticed it did, so I tried starting it again a few times it cranked after the 4 time didn’t even crank at all and I seen smoke coming out from the hood, it smelled like burned plastic or burn cables or something burned, car won’t start or crank at all now at all please help! 🙏🏽 Car did have a oil leak and had to be adding oil I was told oil leak had to do with a tube somewhere near the turbo, I tried jumó start and didn’t work at all I tried pop starting it and nothing either all lights on dash are on! What can this be anyone?
i changed my starter it was full with oil and smelled really burned out so replaced it, car is now cranking but not starting up at all, could I have burned anything else out when the starter burnt out cause smoke did come out my engine when it burned out, please help car is cranking it’s just not starting now
I realized my windows where not rolling up all the way and my headlights where not turning on so I had my moms car give me a jump and when I connected to her car my windows rolled up and headlights turned on after I disconnected it lights didn’t work anymore again so took the battery off took it to autozone and it was at 22% could this be a reason why it’s not turning on because battery doesn’t have enough power to Turn the car on?????
Ok I will charge the battery up as much as I can once I do that I will let you know man thank you so much for the replies🙏🏽 Hopefully that’s the problem and my car turns on tomorrow 🤞🏽
the system must see over 11.8v otherwise it will shut things down the lower the voltages drop and amps,, ie when a car cranks starter its load is very high,, hopefully its just that,, you will need to buy a AGM battery and it must be programmed to the car correctly for the smart charge to work correctly,,
the system must see over 11.8v otherwise it will shut things down the lower the voltages drop and amps,, ie when a car cranks starter its load is very high,, hopefully its just that,, you will need to buy a AGM battery and it must be programmed to the car correctly for the smart charge to work correctly,,
I got the battery back fully charged man and nope nothing still cracks feels like it wants to start but doenst start I’m very exhausted and don’t know what’s wrong with it what else can it be??????
now your in to need a diagnostics scanner to watch live data of the fueling system very common is high pressure fuel pump screen shot below is on a n14 cooper s at idle after new pump and engine rebuild so all is well,
i use autocom on this test can buy them from link below £50 but will take a few weeks to arrive , and will do everything you need to work it out, commonj for high pressure fuel pump to fail need to see the cranking pressure on live data
And forgot to mention also have code P0100 “mass or volume air flow circuit” they said it’s related to my mass air flow sensor can this sensor also make my car not start?????
And forgot to mention also have code P0100 “mass or volume air flow circuit” they said it’s related to my mass air flow sensor can this sensor also make my car not start?????
i would suspect the engine harness got fried when starter motor failed ie starter motors are a dead short for split second until they get turning all motors are,, but when the bearing fails they fail totally you now have 700amps form car battery going through its feed cable this cable will glow red hot and melt anything around it,,, the wiring for all those other sensors you have got codes for do share that plastic case in wiring lomb under the inlet manifold my best guess and fact you smelt hot burning plastic is engine harness damage ,, i would deffo pull inlet off and cut open wiring look for heat damage,,
i would suspect the engine harness got fried when starter motor failed ie starter motors are a dead short for split second until they get turning all motors are,, but when the bearing fails they fail totally you now have 700amps form car battery going through its feed cable this cable will glow red hot and melt anything around it,,, the wiring for all those other sensors you have got codes for do share that plastic case in wiring lomb under the inlet manifold my best guess and fact you smelt hot burning plastic is engine harness damage ,, i would deffo pull inlet off and cut open wiring look for heat damage,,
i checked all that wiring is fine no signs of damage, the burn smell strong order came from the starter and I noticed that when I removed it it smelled horrible, I swapped out the camshaft sensor and mass air flow sensor and still nothing, I’m guessing maybe crankshaft sensor????? Since it sits right below the starter and maybe got damaged with oil like the starter did???? And maybe that’s why my car shut off in the first place Can that be a good guess????If not I’m guessing the ecu is fried??
dont take much to fry a ecu just using jump leads wrongly will spike it, cps and maf/map all use the 5v rail from ecu and is switched ecu earth,, ie it switches the earth feed and not the live feed to sensors, there are a number of ecu specialist around the uk worth pulling off and pop in in with it they have a special plug in and can tell if any systems are faulty inside it, if its nailed they can prob fix it, if not then clone a second hand one,
they will run with inlet position sensor unplugged i've done it a few times forgot started them and then get eml for timing due to it, just takes its position off crank sensor runs as default i guess, i would check the earths are all good wurth putting a jump lead from neg side of battery to metal part of head see if changes things ie rule out a earth issue maybe,,
Ok, I did take off the intake out to replace the starter do you think maybe I didn’t connect something right when I put it back do you know of any plugs on the intake make the car not start?
when its showing a number of sensors with shorts etc tends to be a wiring issue or ecu issue ,, or can be mechanical and throws them all out but those tend to be plausibility codes, trouble with starter motor failures is high amps go to places that it should not,
Big hello to everyone on here.
Been looking at the forum for a while before deciding to take the plunge and get a car to work on in my spare time.
Bought a 2005 face-lift R52 cooper S .
Pocket rocket for £1200.
Needs some body work and several oil leaks but will have fun doing it.
Thanks and see...
Hello, my name is Steve and I currently reside in leafy Surrey and love nothing better than zipping up and down country lanes in my Chilli Red Mini Cooper S Roadster. I’m currently in the process of de-chroming her. Had some issues with her initially, but seems to have worked itself out now.
Hello, Just joined. Live in the UK (not sure if this forum is UK, USA based or worldwide). I bought an 2011 plate Cooper S back in February and I'm very pleased with it - great car and handling. 60k miles on the clock and great condition too. Bought privately as I always do. Live 30 miles...
Thanks for allowing me into your community. I have just bought a 2007 Mini Cooper S and I’m delighted with it. Due to the current lockdown I haven’t driven it very far, but I can wait. I’ve driven BMW for the last 30+ years so you could say that I haven’t strayed too far.
The last Mini we...
Hi guys,
I have a 2008 r56 turbo. It died and it wouldn’t start. Changed the high fuel pressure pump. It started but it had a rough idle. I change the spark plugs and Vanos. I cleared all my codes and now it sounds smooth and the rough idle is gone. but I keep getting the “engine malfunction...
Join our Mini Cooper Forums to talk about your new Mini. From reviews, mods, accessories, reliability concerns and more, this Mini Owners Club is full of info!
www.aliexpress.com
Srp111 · updated 
Explosive-Steve · updated 
