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Hey...can anyone tell me if i have a problem with my turbo....if my car idles for a while it starts to push smoke out of the exhaust...a mechanic friend mentioned that sometimes a small gasket on the turbo goes bad and allows oil to push by and causes the smoking...after i begin to drive it goes away and it only happens at a prolonged stop when idling .....

just got a notice extending the warranty on my cars turbo because of "some reported issues" NOT a recall...lol....

i have a 2011 clubman S

any help would be great before i call the dealer to inquire....:nerd:0:)
 

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Hey...can anyone tell me if i have a problem with my turbo....if my car idles for a while it starts to push smoke out of the exhaust...a mechanic friend mentioned that sometimes a small gasket on the turbo goes bad and allows oil to push by and causes the smoking...after i begin to drive it goes away and it only happens at a prolonged stop when idling .....

just got a notice extending the warranty on my cars turbo because of "some reported issues" NOT a recall...lol....

i have a 2011 clubman S

any help would be great before i call the dealer to inquire....:nerd:0:)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2007-2013-Mini-Cooper-S-JCW-John-Cooper-Works-Turbocharger-Turbo-Assembly/292402155826?hash=item441486d132:g:SusAAOSwMmlZ3o3f
above link is same type turbo same kkk type, this one is a jcw upgrade spins faster faster spoil up might be worth a punt if warranty companies decide its wear and tear and wont pat for it,
the best way to know if turbo remove cat and run car put clean rag over exhaust end loock got oil spots. same as inlet side remove inlet pipe and watch for oil coming out of compression boost pipe, if it has been leaking oil on the boost side you must ensure the intercooler is cleaned out as always end up full of oil and have seen engines with bent conrods when the engine sucks in a load of it,
the turbo that is used are known for problems but so many others are as well, they are water cooled have seen the chamber crack water pump issues and extreme heat, the waste gate penny valve wears and cause all kinds of issues as early as 70k. also it has a electronic diverter valve on the compressor side these can fail in a way that dont throw up any codes but car just gets slower and slower until you get a eml, or the return spring on the plunger gets weak form wear and heat this causes fault codes for maps sensor readings and over boost faults, the car will rev to around 4k and just will not go anymore but do this is 1st gear and it will hit the red line not fast then this will trigger a eml light,, first time i had this fault i ended up going back to basics and measured every component and scope them and still struggles to find it,,, until i put a brand new diverter valve side by side with old one was very clear at this point by the slack of spring, i just wrote the above mainly for others that might read it as its important i feel to have all the picture,, you are better off replacing the whole turbo and not just having the chamber repaired as everything above is not if it goes that way its when,,
good thing about the above turbo it uses a better shaft and bearing and billet compressor wheel stronger turbo,
yes your turbo can and do leak oil when they are not far off totally going south.
 
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