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very much doubt its pvc system to blame, oil pressure dont effect oil use as such, valve stem seals and crap bmw piston ring do, also oil leaks can add to it as well, bmw state 1 litre of oil to 800 to 1000 miles normal use, they seem to get to around 50k and start using oil from my dealings also timing chain tend to need changing around 60,000 miles ish,
 

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if oil light has shown up ie red oil can light on dash chances are damage would be done to the engine, on that year of engine its got a piloted oil pump the oil solonoid valve it runs with they tend to flag codes up around £70k ish will also do same if engine run very low of oil at any point, hopefully warranty will take care of it
 

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in the uk warranty companies have small print and many not worth the paper wrote on to be honest the band words like wear and tear and being used outside of its design etc, i've seen people have oil damage and they warranty say owner induced due to not checking oil enough,, that last one was on a car that owner was anal about it and soon worked out it was using to much oil etc, at least you can force the car dealer to refund or repair it and last resort
 

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I will. They supposedly haven't diagnosed it yet. I think they can't figure it out or do not want to deal with it yet... or are figuring how to patch it to get it past the warranty. I am on them!! Thanks
yep sounds like they doing the dance, get same on uk with many dealers, then add they might not know much about the engines is added issue,, and believe we mickey is bang on with what these all go like at some point
 

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@mike1967 if you were stateside, I would check out your engine refresh prices. It sounds like you have experience with these. :)
I get that all the time from US based owners shame its so far away, I just booked another one for the 24th of this month a 2012 mini cooper s that loves burning oil really pretty car as well rare baby blue and black colour scheme, ironically I get the odd person who have trust issues and would rather pay 3 or 4 times what I charge to do them as its my spare time job's ,, ironically not had one yet that I have not been able to sort , and believe me I get some right stinkers where owners have try'd to add after market crap parts and were only treating the outcome and not the reason for failed parts ie mechanical faults driven over time and oil burning tend to hurt things like cat and 02 sensors most common on oil burnt and driven many miles after to turn cat in to a glowing furnace and melts it away,,
 

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I am gonna drive this hard for 1200 miles.
when you do just keep a eye on the oil level as well when it get to min mark take it is tell them you have checked oi daily since owning it as dont trust it etc, it shows to them you have done everything you can to do right by the car if that makes sense, rather than damaging it more from totally running out of oil ,,, bmw state these engine and i disagree with this that these will burn 1 litre of oil 800 to 1000 miles ,, I have seen them from brand new use no oil and when they get to around 8 years old ish and 50k start to use oil to what bmw state above,,, ie they were kicking the oil use issues up the road, audi vw done same BS with the v6 petrols of same years that had coated and special pistons etc ,, I would all the cars i have replaced the plastic oil rings on stop using oil massively , i got cars out there going 8k between services not using oil, little oil gets pushed down pcv system by design and this shows up on cars that are beaten hard more ie cooper s and hard driving etc, got a couple of guys who track their cooper s cars and they both said on the rod=ad normal use uses no oil and on track when bouncing off rev limiter and also when i done the refresh on them we dropped a 210bhp map at wheels on them and 500 revs increase on limiter at their request they scream and both them I done 2 years ago and still behaving so go figure, if your garage rebuild it get them to fit solid 3 piece oil rings they are made by MAHL or SM by far the best, also use elring stem seals
 

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they say due to ;lack of oil that caused a timing code yes that does happen, where you stand is its not fit for purpose due to it only doing a few hundred miles before being undrivable do to it using to much oil oil because engine is done, NOT FIT FOR PURPOSE and not road wurthy and could be dangerous if car breaks down in rush hour in a lane of fast moving traffic etc
 

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Yeah at this point I cannot even drive it to try the 1200 miles. Once I get it back over there, then I push. They need to rebuild it.
just keep putting pressure on them
 

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They need to relapse the engine, it’s knackered. I doubt it’s worth their while to open it up. Most likely they don’t have the skills to go that deep and the time/cost impact would make it impractical. Push them for either a replacement engine with a one year warranty or your money back.
deffo agree with that most garages dont understand them for sure
 

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Question. These mini's are known for bad piston rings. The test for that is a compression test, right? nope its not just compression test, as I keep telling people its the crap plastic oil rings on pistons and valve stem seals,, get them to do a crankcase pressure test if to high from blow-by that also adds to it,
what colour are the plugs , if white or black with heavy carbon build up that proves oil burning , lack of oil will throw timing faults as effects the vanos timing as its run on oil, to tell them that oil level should stay high enough to prevent that code coming on for at least 5k if not more, bmw state 800-1000 miles to a litre of engine oil normal funny how all there new engines until they hit around 40k to 50k use no oil then it seems it begins from that point, some cars that were beaten from brand new it comes earlier than that,
 

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just remember all you do needs to be written to them , reject the car due to its on going problems , record on your phone any conversations you have when doin this make sure you ask the guy names etc, all this just in case they are kicking can down the road and its their plan i would say chances are this is what they are trying ,,, ie force you to take them to court then they will tell the court they had fixed all the faults you came back with while under warranty, then use well the last fault was not in warranty time etc,, just think this through at the worst case just in case, in uk you would need to reject the car in writing be clear what you want from them and what you expect from the car and them, you will need to get a independent engineers report done on car if they dont sort it out, you will need to stop driving it from point of rejecting it ,, you also tell the seller you are forced to reject car and that will incur a lot more expenses that will be claiming back off them when it goes to court,, ie engineers report, any taxi's or transport costs this has caused until its sorted out, and also the big one all legal costs etc,, and make them aware that after you have won all this back you will make sure you leave fittin and honest feed back through public media just to help others not fall in to the hassle and unhelpfulness games you suffered,,, IMPORTANT DONT MENTION COURT STUFF UNTIL THEY STOP TRYINg TO FIX IT ITS AT THAT POINT YOU LET THEM HAVE IT, most dealers know you get a few bad feedbacks its destroys their business they asl know that courts are on side of owners and not car sellers you have protections, just need to do it in a certain way
 

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This is turning out to be a nightmare. Thanks you so much Mike
might be a long road if garage digs in and trys to avoid doing the right thing, or what you expect dont meet what they decided they think is , goodluck hope it works out ok for you
 

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Current codes just checked.
P0015. Camshaft position sensor.
They are even avoiding the $20 sensors.
as they know its got bigger issues kicking the can down the road,
 
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personally i would ust reject the car in writing tell them to buy it back end of they have had enough times now to correctly diagnose it as burning to much oil ie engine clapped out and this makes it not fit for purpose, also the eml light that keeps coming on is not fit for purpose etc, or give them another way out find a like for like car they are selling and ask if possible to exchange this faulty one etc might be worth a punt
 

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Let me ask you [email protected] - when would the engine low oil warning light come on? The dealership said I had a low oil compression CEL fault, but that it was only 1.5 quarts down. I say BS because the low oil wouldn't come on with only 1.5 quarts down.
will answer the above, there is no such things as engine oil compression, oil does not compress, oil pressure is what it is, the oil pump pumps oil from sumps at on a new engine 75psi aroiund the engine, 50k miles engines 50psi normal as some wear reduces the clearances between bearings and also the oil rings in the camshafts vanos system wear and loose oil pressure through those as well, oil pressure if very low as in light comes on ,, ie on these engines this happens when oil gets really hot due to worn bearings and this causes more heat and thins the oil this also cause bigger damages and really only way forward on such engines is change the engine, or totally rebuild it but chances are the cylinder head will be destroyed as wear the camshafts bearing points out, low oil pressure causes a red oil can light on the dash, not so much a eml light, low oil pressure will cause eml for vanos timing and even under boost on turbo as turbo cars the bearing cant float wears out and destroys turbo in no time,

they just changed the law here in California where used cars do not qualify any more. I spoke with an attorney yesterday. He said I need to let them try to fix it until they can’t. He told me to document everything.
the above stands in uk as well to a point the dealer is given a chance to repair the fault if fails then legally can reject the car, everything you do needs to be done in writing use it as evidence, i would also if some point they start ignoring you just point out that social media is useful to point out to others about being ripped off by a car seller etc and wont be good for their sales in the long run, ie taking you for a few grand will cost them many time more than that over time with people reading the truth about how you were dealt with wrongly etc ,, as long as you only ever write the truth with documents to prove the truth they will know they are not just going to get away with it is how i would play it at point you feel they are trying to take you for ride etc,, pointing out your stubborn and wont give in just want to be treated fairly and its not your fault they sold you a POS car lol,
 

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might be leaking they can leak through middle of of them and leak in to wiring harness and cause more issues with harness
 

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If it is burning oil at a high rate (burning, losing whatever) they said it will be a new engine. I can't even imagine how long THAT will take them.

We are still waiting on the part. Two weeks now. Ive owned the car 68 days, They have had it 35 of them.
dont surprise me get it here in uk with garages dealers that really have no clue what they are looking at or any idea of what it takes to put them right, It will come to a point where you will need to turn up the heat get your money back and move on from it perhaps,
 

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Ive let them know that but they said that by law, they have to have the opportunity to try to fix it... but evidently there is no time limit and I am sure I am back burner for them. My bumper is being repainted now while we wait.

I have a 4x4 Jeep compass as a loaner. Its brand new. I should start doing off road stuff and enjoy it.
you think like me bud , sure its called planned karma
 

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I wish I had your knowledge. You have quickly become the expert in Mini's in my mind. Its amazing what you know!
dont think I expert i learn something new every day to be honest , I dont just do mini stuff do a lot of vag and bmw stuff as well ,, while everyone in the trade runs away from prince engines i was always interested in beating it when i had one in front of me with some wacky fault that is how it begun,, its funny you ask 10 car techs about how you would do a job and get 10 different answers that would come to same outcome at some point I guess, being stubborn old fart helps a lot , dont like being beat by a lump of metal lol
 
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So after 72 days in the shop, my bumper has been repainted and the cam shaft position sensor is in and reading correctly - so they say. I am going to pick it up today I think.

I’ve owned the car 106 days. Driven in 34.
I put 2700 on this loaner alone. I had two others.

now comes the 1200 mile oil consumption test.
fairly cheap to run lol, ie cheaper putting mileage on someone else.s car. its the trouble with these cars there is only one way to sort them properly and its a pistons out and get rid of the plastic oil rings ,, honestly they go from using 1 litre to 500 miles or worse to nearly no oil if driven gentle and very small amount if hammered as pcv system pulls oil through at high revs and higher crankcase pressures, I still get a kick out of after refreshing them zero crankcase pressure as such and go through mot ultra low on emissions,, little tip if ever have a oil leak at rear of engine that can be sign of pcv pipe cracked as many go, when i rebuild these i always run a smoke test before rebuild rule such issues out as can play hell with fueling , and after rebuilt as well ,, also exhaust flexi if leaks can causes a load of emissions issues , as ecu keeps adding fuel due to seeing the 02 on bottom sensor
 
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