2011 R56 now in shop...

History: I bought the car with 72K to use as a commuter. I drove it 2500 miles in 31 days and then I got a CEL. I immediately took it in.

The dealership informed me I was out of oil at 2500 miles - that's all the oil it holds PLUS the two quarts I put in. Conservatively that's 500 miles a quart.
They were baffled or do not want to admit why. They reset the CEL (and conveniently forgot to write it down) and said want me to drive an oil consumption test. I am to drive 1200 miles and we will see where the oil is at. The kicker was they wanted it driven in 21 days before. the warranty ran out.

When I got it back last Friday, I drove it hard and 15 miles later, CEL. So I took it back in.

Now, 7 days later, they say the car is running fine, they reset the code which was a P105 or similar, an exhaust valve? I am thinking this is an exhaust cam position sensor. They said its possible the code was because of low oil (bullllllshiiiit)

So now I am to start the oil consumption test again. And I am insisting that I get, in writing, an extension - a formal extension - of the 60 day 3k drive train warranty.

Question. These mini's are known for bad piston rings. The test for that is a compression test, right?

And after 50 miles the CEL came back on. It’s currently dropping down a gear like I am accelerating while I am steady on the pedal.

I am going to get the codes at an auto parts store before going over. They are just kicking the can down the road until the warranty runs out in 14 days

when I picked it up, I told them if the CEL comes back on, I will not be able to do their stupid oil consumption test and that we would be having a different conversation

well, now we need to have it.
They should have just fixed whatever the code was, I think it was cam position sensor… and because they didn’t fix it, it caused the vanos warning. This is probably the main cause of the CEL but it’s preventing me from finding about oil consumption

could it be they didn’t fix it on purpose? Time will tell.
I am fuming mad.

just remember all you do needs to be written to them , reject the car due to its on going problems , record on your phone any conversations you have when doin this make sure you ask the guy names etc, all this just in case they are kicking can down the road and its their plan i would say chances are this is what they are trying ,,, ie force you to take them to court then they will tell the court they had fixed all the faults you came back with while under warranty, then use well the last fault was not in warranty time etc,, just think this through at the worst case just in case, in uk you would need to reject the car in writing be clear what you want from them and what you expect from the car and them, you will need to get a independent engineers report done on car if they dont sort it out, you will need to stop driving it from point of rejecting it ,, you also tell the seller you are forced to reject car and that will incur a lot more expenses that will be claiming back off them when it goes to court,, ie engineers report, any taxi's or transport costs this has caused until its sorted out, and also the big one all legal costs etc,, and make them aware that after you have won all this back you will make sure you leave fittin and honest feed back through public media just to help others not fall in to the hassle and unhelpfulness games you suffered,,, IMPORTANT DONT MENTION COURT STUFF UNTIL THEY STOP TRYINg TO FIX IT ITS AT THAT POINT YOU LET THEM HAVE IT, most dealers know you get a few bad feedbacks its destroys their business they asl know that courts are on side of owners and not car sellers you have protections, just need to do it in a certain way

Let me ask you [email protected] - when would the engine low oil warning light come on? The dealership said I had a low oil compression CEL fault, but that it was only 1.5 quarts down. I say BS because the low oil wouldn't come on with only 1.5 quarts down.

I had to remind them I added two quarts myself.

Its been almost 3 week and they have yet to diagnose the CEL properly. They keep saying the car ia fine, I pick it up and 40 miles later, CEL

I did however threaten that I wanted them to buy it back. This got them moving a bit faster, although in reality, they are just communicating better. I got a VERBAL that the warranty, which expired Sept 30, will be extended by 30 days. Funny that's not what they originally said and I also found out that its a LAW In CA that it needs to be extended by the amount of says the car is not in my possession.

Basically I have to MAKE SURE the car doesn't have much oil when the 1200 miles are completed. The dealership sealed the oil fill and dip stick so they know I won't add or subtract...but I could technically get some out of the spark plug holes....right? You know, if I felt I needed to.

I also could just start the car and let it run. Let it idle a whole tank of gas. That would increase oil consumption, minimally I know, but with zero miles added. If I could do it holder load, like Ferris Buehler, that would be even better.....I am just thinking out loud.

Let me ask you [email protected] - when would the engine low oil warning light come on? The dealership said I had a low oil compression CEL fault, but that it was only 1.5 quarts down. I say BS because the low oil wouldn't come on with only 1.5 quarts down.

I had to remind them I added two quarts myself.

Its been almost 3 week and they have yet to diagnose the CEL properly. They keep saying the car ia fine, I pick it up and 40 miles later, CEL

I did however threaten that I wanted them to buy it back. This got them moving a bit faster, although in reality, they are just communicating better. I got a VERBAL that the warranty, which expired Sept 30, will be extended by 30 days. Funny that's not what they originally said and I also found out that its a LAW In CA that it needs to be extended by the amount of says the car is not in my possession.

Basically I have to MAKE SURE the car doesn't have much oil when the 1200 miles are completed. The dealership sealed the oil fill and dip stick so they know I won't add or subtract...but I could technically get some out of the spark plug holes....right? You know, if I felt I needed to.

I also could just start the car and let it run. Let it idle a whole tank of gas. That would increase oil consumption, minimally I know, but with zero miles added. If I could do it holder load, like Ferris Buehler, that would be even better.....I am just thinking out loud.

mike1967 said:

personally i would ust reject the car in writing tell them to buy it back end of they have had enough times now to correctly diagnose it as burning to much oil ie engine clapped out and this makes it not fit for purpose, also the eml light that keeps coming on is not fit for purpose etc, or give them another way out find a like for like car they are selling and ask if possible to exchange this faulty one etc might be worth a punt

Click to expand...

they just changed the law here in California where used cars do not qualify any more. I spoke with an attorney yesterday. He said I need to let them try to fix it until they can’t. He told me to document everything.

Let me ask you [email protected] - when would the engine low oil warning light come on? The dealership said I had a low oil compression CEL fault, but that it was only 1.5 quarts down. I say BS because the low oil wouldn't come on with only 1.5 quarts down.
will answer the above, there is no such things as engine oil compression, oil does not compress, oil pressure is what it is, the oil pump pumps oil from sumps at on a new engine 75psi aroiund the engine, 50k miles engines 50psi normal as some wear reduces the clearances between bearings and also the oil rings in the camshafts vanos system wear and loose oil pressure through those as well, oil pressure if very low as in light comes on ,, ie on these engines this happens when oil gets really hot due to worn bearings and this causes more heat and thins the oil this also cause bigger damages and really only way forward on such engines is change the engine, or totally rebuild it but chances are the cylinder head will be destroyed as wear the camshafts bearing points out, low oil pressure causes a red oil can light on the dash, not so much a eml light, low oil pressure will cause eml for vanos timing and even under boost on turbo as turbo cars the bearing cant float wears out and destroys turbo in no time,

they just changed the law here in California where used cars do not qualify any more. I spoke with an attorney yesterday. He said I need to let them try to fix it until they can’t. He told me to document everything.
the above stands in uk as well to a point the dealer is given a chance to repair the fault if fails then legally can reject the car, everything you do needs to be done in writing use it as evidence, i would also if some point they start ignoring you just point out that social media is useful to point out to others about being ripped off by a car seller etc and wont be good for their sales in the long run, ie taking you for a few grand will cost them many time more than that over time with people reading the truth about how you were dealt with wrongly etc ,, as long as you only ever write the truth with documents to prove the truth they will know they are not just going to get away with it is how i would play it at point you feel they are trying to take you for ride etc,, pointing out your stubborn and wont give in just want to be treated fairly and its not your fault they sold you a POS car lol,