the way to tell on them is on long trip driving that where engine sits at 3000 revs or above most of the time and everything has chance to get hot, short start stop trips wont really show it up , also you really do need to keep oil level at top mark on dipstick and not towards lower mark as timing chain collects its oil from the sump mainly and flicks it up the chain as such when oil low it dont get as much oil picked up, also low oil means less of it oil also cools the engine parts as well as lubricates and cleans it as such so low oil messes with this over time,
2011 R56 now in shop...
Hey everyone, I bought my 2011 R56 base a month ago. 10 days ago, I noticed it was down 2 quarts of oil after 2000 miles. Then at 2500 miles the check engine light came on....I went straight back to the used car dealership.
I am going to guess the oil pressure was gone because again it was out of oil. That's 5ish quarts in 2500 miles. Unacceptable!
I am going to guess that it's the PCV value flap. I have a 2 month /3,000k warranty so.... let THEM figure it out.
Stay tuned for the drama!
I am going to guess the oil pressure was gone because again it was out of oil. That's 5ish quarts in 2500 miles. Unacceptable!
I am going to guess that it's the PCV value flap. I have a 2 month /3,000k warranty so.... let THEM figure it out.
Stay tuned for the drama!
61 - 73 of 73 Posts
Mike I checked yesterday and it was at the very bottom of the dipstick. I bought some oil and it took about 2.25 quarts
I really think the shop overfilled it to begin with. So after 1250 miles, it was still showing full. There is no way to prove this.
I haven’t been commuting so this is mostly around town driving. Maybe once or twice to LA. I mean I drove 1200 miles and it was above the level. I drive 1500 miles around town and it appears low. That seems the opposite of what it should.
my options are to deal with it and just keep putting oil, rebuild the engine or sell the car.
I think I will keep putting oil for another year then sell it. We want to buy a house so right before I will probably get it rid of it to clear credit room. It will still be a low mile car. It’s 78k now on a 2011.
I really think the shop overfilled it to begin with. So after 1250 miles, it was still showing full. There is no way to prove this.
I haven’t been commuting so this is mostly around town driving. Maybe once or twice to LA. I mean I drove 1200 miles and it was above the level. I drive 1500 miles around town and it appears low. That seems the opposite of what it should.
my options are to deal with it and just keep putting oil, rebuild the engine or sell the car.
I think I will keep putting oil for another year then sell it. We want to buy a house so right before I will probably get it rid of it to clear credit room. It will still be a low mile car. It’s 78k now on a 2011.
I did smile when you posted the comment garage had tested it and its using no oil , only ones i see like that are after refreshed and changed the rings,
I was hopeful Mike.
But I knew deep down
But I knew deep down
Message me when you want to sell it and I might be interested if the price is right.......I think I will keep putting oil for another year then sell it. We want to buy a house so right before I will probably get it rid of it to clear credit room. It will still be a low mile car. It’s 78k now on a 2011.
I will try to remember 🙂
I found my oil leak! I recently started smelling burning oil. I looked and saw the bottom one the engine was wet.
"The oil filter housing seal is leaking...and has been leaking for a while" a mini specialist said. So now I have some ammunition to go back to the selling dealership and fight
This isn't going to be pretty and may be futile, but I will escalate it.
"The oil filter housing seal is leaking...and has been leaking for a while" a mini specialist said. So now I have some ammunition to go back to the selling dealership and fight
This isn't going to be pretty and may be futile, but I will escalate it.
common the rubber seals go hard i always do them when do refresh on them,
@mike1967
HOW HARD is it to do? the shop said it was a lot of labor to get to.
should I look for a general mechanic? Can I do it myself?
or should I sell the car and move on?
HOW HARD is it to do? the shop said it was a lot of labor to get to.
should I look for a general mechanic? Can I do it myself?
or should I sell the car and move on?
takes me around 3 hours start to finish as its cat off and I leave front on car and remove the slam panel and driverside head light , also need to take clamp off exhaust flexi and jack with a piece of wood on sump to protect it the engine up and backwards to gain access best way, nothing on these cars is easy its all packed in there,@mike1967
HOW HARD is it to do? the shop said it was a lot of labor to get to.
should I look for a general mechanic? Can I do it myself?
or should I sell the car and move on?
I watched a YouTube on it. If I has the right tools, I may have attempted it. Ugh
I’m gonna shop around because $1200 seems too high
I’m gonna shop around because $1200 seems too high
last set of seals I done was 4 hours and seals were around £20 , exhaust clamp £12 , I would advise you to change the whole housing with bmw spec latest updated one, as there is known issues with the factory ones,I watched a YouTube on it. If I has the right tools, I may have attempted it. Ugh
I’m gonna shop around because $1200 seems too high
I just looked myself, and it's seeping, not dripping or leaking. Its fine, but I am still pushing into the selling dealership.
61 - 73 of 73 Posts
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