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Discussion Starter #1
I've flushed the system but the car still gets up to 230 degrees. I also don't see a bleeder valve so I can't bleed the system.
 

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there are two bleeds 1 n top of thermostat housing big cross head plastic screw, the other on the heater top pipe ie a black cap looking thing, thermostat housing common for failure there is a updated one with 4 pinned plug and wiring update, also the water pup has plastic impeller and can snap off, also the coated pulley can slip if coating has fallen off, also if the pulley belt badly worn and gets thinner can prevent correct drive to water pump also the electronic jockey wheel for drive belt can fail cause same issue, below link updated thermostat housing,
 

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Discussion Starter #3
there are two bleeds 1 n top of thermostat housing big cross head plastic screw, the other on the heater top pipe ie a black cap looking thing, thermostat housing common for failure there is a updated one with 4 pinned plug and wiring update, also the water pup has plastic impeller and can snap off, also the coated pulley can slip if coating has fallen off, also if the pulley belt badly worn and gets thinner can prevent correct drive to water pump also the electronic jockey wheel for drive belt can fail cause same issue, below link updated thermostat housing,
I guess I have had the newer thermostat installed. I bought this used and it was recalled for a water pump issue. I'm guessing they put the newer thermostat on then. So, I'm still faced with trying to bleed the system. Where is the heater pipe and the valve. I don't see it.
 

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should be on the highest pipe from thermostat to heater matrix pipe on the baulk head tiny looking dust cap remove it and it should let out air.
 

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shadetree monkey
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Mike1967, what is the wiring adapter for the 2 pin to 4 pin connections?! I don’t see that 4 pin plug-in on my 2010 Cooper S! I only
Have the two 2 pin connectors.
 

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Mike1967, what is the wiring adapter for the 2 pin to 4 pin connections?! I don’t see that 4 pin plug-in on my 2010 Cooper S! I only
Have the two 2 pin connectors.
the 4 iin adaptor is because bmw/psa have updated the housing last year plugs in to your wiring direct fit,,, as so many were causing problem with plastic going brittle and leaking, or internal not controlling oil water temps and causing spiking when driven and get get hot etc, please dont be fouled with the cheap housing from china they are rubbish and cause more issues, have had a few when oil pressure light kept coming on after a good run, until we worked out that this was due to the housing allowing the engine to run over 109c and when you think oil is tested at 100c for its viscosity under heat and pressure it caused a lot of problems ie worst case is thin oil would wear crankshaft bearings and oil pumps out as a bi-product and people would repair these parts just for the engine to repeat its self, the latest genuine housing is 105c that makes a lot of difference and it should run correctly at that, below link for genuine one from a bmw and saab parts company,, after market parts on sensors and hosing link this is really a big NO NO we find on rolling road and mapping so many problems with people not knowing that a aftermarket part thats 1/4 or 1/2 the price is not going to have correct resistances needed to run a engine that has won a lot of awards for emissions and power and needs all this info to do so
 
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