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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
today had my next engine refresh dropped done to me from Bedfordshire 2012 cooper s N18 engine with thirst for oil and loves to smoke on over runs and if left on idle for to long get a big cloud of smoke, 64000 miles full history lady owned before new owner who has instructed me to repair if via refresh it,, ie new rings and valve stem seals timing chain kit etc, this car was sold to new owners in a way they could not of known about the smoking and use as I would say the last owner's are a shower of lies and told new owners the only time they could vie car was after 8.30pm is to dark to know its smoking,, so all you people out there you must test drive these cars a good 45 minutes a good thing and in day light,, not the first time i have such a story of someone buying a car and to find out issues when its day light,, anyways back to the car bones of this car is really good I like this car a lot rare baby blue and black colour and nice black wheels limited colour for a year i believe, i only a few hours on it today just to work out what other issues or areas we need to deal with, customer rightly has agreed to replace the water pump and link pipe and thermo housing to protect it going forward against any coolant issues that as these cars have no coolant temp gauge with destroy the engine if leaks coolant, also the oil filter to housing to block rubber seals and the oil cooler seals as well to be done, also the cat and 02 sensors are oil damaged ,, also found the spark plugs have been burnt out on electrodes sign of timing retared and of when they add oil to burn the cylinder temps go through the roof and hurt things, so full chain kit will sort that out,, i also pre scanned car found two fault codes for oil pump piloted function and solonoid so new oil pump to be fitted,, i need to remove the driver dri9ve shaft to do this as wiring harness behind it, so will change gearbox oil and add some gearbox additive to help prevent wear,, this car is also having a remap so will go from 184bhp to around 228bhp with a better low to mid range its a ,map me and rolling road guy worked on and gives them a nice drivability and driven low revs can be better mpg,, also due to codes about oil pump going to fit a turbo chra thats the middle bit with seals and impellors on it ,, ie ebay £140 for it better than the £750 for a new turbo takes be hour to strip and fit them deffo cheapest way forward,
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as you can see the damage on the spark plugs from oil burning and and lean running etc, will add more pics and details as I do it
 
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Excellent write up Mike! It comforts us knowing our Mini is in your hands. We bought the car feeling it was genuine having spoken to the previous owners at length and didn’t think twice about the night viewing, assumed it was just because of busy schedules, the day after the private sale we saw the smoke billowing out by which stage it was too late, and the previous owners claiming it never did that when they had it. Silly on our part, but great to see the work going into her now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Excellent write up Mike! It comforts us knowing our Mini is in your hands. We bought the car feeling it was genuine having spoken to the previous owners at length and didn’t think twice about the night viewing, assumed it was just because of busy schedules, the day after the private sale we saw the smoke billowing out by which stage it was too late, and the previous owners claiming it never did that when they had it. Silly on our part, but great to see the work going into her now.
so many people get caught out like your selves but it not end of world its all sortable and will be,, shame you had to get so many different views from garages that dont help , and some of their views about not doing rings and not pulling head off was just plain silly on these engines, few people i've done this for have said about taking to a garage and getting changed over £2k to do stem seals and timing chain just to find it still smoked after as they never done the rings at same time,, anyway its in the right place now when all done it will be a nice place to sit ,, one thing for sure its going to go very well remap and engine timed right on new cat and sensors will run nice for sure,
those rim blades i have on my van link below
if you send them to me i'll fit them for you call it a xmas present lol, wont take me long to fit them,
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
had a good day at it today closed doors down shut world away ignored my phone and just got in to it, got head off and pistons out as per pics, found the oil pump has been messed with by someone who rather than do job right and take drive shaft out to gain access to the plug on back of engine they decided to lash up a cable connection that is not designed to be in oil on its plug etc, so new oil pump n way with right wiring harness that will be fitted correctly , also found timing chian top post was finger tight and oil leaking, also the oil filter housing is all wet around it so seals will be rock hard and seeping,, also found the thermostat to water pump link pipe cracked on the end as per pics, also the water pump pully wheel is starting to crack not long for the world so will replace that one, also its factory water pump is its black plastic also has wear movement so a solid alloy one to replace that, , will also change gearbox oil as need to pull drive shaft out so oil will come out might as well replace the gearbox oil and will add a additive that helps keep it smooth etc, found head is as per they all go stem seals , the rings the top ones are brittle all in line with burning oil and combustion process getting to hot,, bores have no wear as such will make a tidy engine when back together ,


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below pic shows link pipe and how they all crack break with age, this was caught just in time
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below pic shows where oil filter housings start leaking oil when seals go hard
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below pic shows oil pump bodged electrical harness that should be screwed through the base plate with a single torx bolt,
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below pic shows pistons marked and numbered and direction before removal , each piston must go back in same bore and correct direction
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below pic shows pistons before cleaning and you can see clearly how the oil has come upwards past the rings by the dark traces on the sides etc,
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
below pic shows piston and crap plastic oil ring and how bad they get
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below pic shows how the oil rings will flex and not snap
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below pic before and after piston
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Mike, a hat tip to you. Fantastic write up and great to see the progress of the Mini. Some awesome finds in there too such as the bodge job someone has done previously on the oil pump. I think my Mrs is gonna be a happy lady in the end!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Mike, a hat tip to you. Fantastic write up and great to see the progress of the Mini. Some awesome finds in there too such as the bodge job someone has done previously on the oil pump. I think my Mrs is gonna be a happy lady in the end!
the crank shaft is perfect as are the bearings , the bores are perfect so will hone up well so should be a good one ,, i'll clean off around the engine where its had oil leaks and seal everything up again so should be dry going forward thats the aim, happy wife happy life lol , all I need to work out is how not to get oily fingers on everything with my wife lol
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Cant believe so many people try so many things to cover up how poor these engines are from the factory so many cowboys around
get it all the time the worst is when they pull fault codes off ecu so ecu dont know its got that fault so dont flag a code up,
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
got another 7 hours on it today, stripped head cleaned re-lapped valve seats , fitted new oil rings to camshaft as per pics , i soak them in oil for a few hors first then use a pick tool to carefully put them on, i use Vaseline to gel to helps stick the valve collects to valves when putting back together,, also use slight amount of welseal on the end caps for vanos rings and for the inlet posts to head surfaces where oil ways are, , i also cleaned and put new piston rings on all pistons and honed all 4 bores ready for pistons the next day i get to it, still need to remove the oil filter housing and replace the rubber seals and also check non return valves are still working fine,, got new oil pump for t today as this one flagged up fault codes pressure regulation related , ie its ecu piloted, someone had bodged the wiring harness to it as well so will be pulling drive shafts out and do that job right,
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above pics of new rings I always use 3 piece type like above found them to be better for oil control ,
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bores honed this one had very slight wear so easy hone notice the 45 degrees marks as it should

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above pic of vvt system and and spring fingers before stripping i mark the ie white dotts and yellow dots and lines for exhaust caps
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above pic of camshaft end journal that has the plastic oil rings for vanos sprockets I replace these on ever one do ,
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above pic of torx bolts and end caps etc on inlet camshaft
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above pic shows soaking the vanos oil rings in oil and i use assembly lube when fit them helps prevent damage
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above pic new rings fitted for vanos sprocket oil control
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above pic show the part numbers for the new plastic oil rings for camshafts these wear out , older ones were made of metal and would wear the camshafts , these do dont so easy repair,
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
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above pic of cylinder head with all valaves back in ready to go back on engine block,
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above pic shows how i put valve collets back on end of valves ie pick tool and vaseline so it sticks to surfaces and can be pushed to where it needs to sit in the grooves on valve head,
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pic above valve stem and spring compressed ready for collects
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above pic exhaust vale all cleaned and seat lapped notice the difference in colour on the seat where its lapped,
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above pic of head apart and ports cleaned out etc ,

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valve stem seals all rock hard and out of shape
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old stem seals still on guides on head i use molgrips to pull the off
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exhaust valve before cleaning and lapping as they all go
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above pic old screw driverr ground a groove slot in it to be used to push spring fingers around on vvt system when putting them back on their followers, bmw tool for this is £300, i can put all spring finger back in about 5 minutes ,
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
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abvoe pic piston before and after ,
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above pics of piston ready to go back in and with new rings sets on it, notice the oil rings because they move independent of each other ie are two rings and a corrugated separator they ride better on the bores and more so on a used bored that has been honed,,i've been fitting this type of ring now for many years and only get good results with and personally wont use anything else when doing these types of refresh,
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Mike… you really are a master of your craft! Just love seeing the progress of this Mini.

Make sure you wash your hands tonight and give the Mrs a good back massage 😂
think its me that needs the massage lol, the video diary i do works well dont it shows what has been done and how etc and what I along the way etc , for me its a way of showing honesty and upfront with every thing I touch etc, also if at time your wife gets bored and wants that lambo it can be proven whats been done and how etc,
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
another day another game with a mini lol , today put pistons in and head back on and thermostat housing on and fuel rail started pulling drive shaft out to fit oil pump, got half way through fitting a chra to the turbo to find got wrong one, there are two types for N18 engines 180bhp and 211bhp for jcw and of course had to get sent wrong one lol, we were contemplating just fitting a jcw turbo to it and then I we would drop a jcw mapped stage one file to pull it together , but prob over kill for lady owner , its already going to mapped should have around 225bhp, the bores are perfect no movement in pistons and crank rotates really nice and smooth will make for a good engine when done as its been caught early enough at 64k on clock,
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below pic is of piston ring compressor tool and piston in it, notice the white marks on piston those are where i set the gaps in the piston rings 180 degrees apart and set to sides so the thrust when engine is running is on a full length of piston rings, i also set the compressor tool with the inner lip at top of piston in the middle, this reduces risk of breaking a rings when slide them is dont catch as much,,
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below ;pic heat shields i always repaint them silver

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below pic of all 4 pistons in and locked on crank lock point
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below pic head on torque down 30nm plus90 plus 90 notice the white marks by each bolt that shows i have touched that bolt and how man times etc
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got a couple days away from it now waiting on parts for turbo and oil filter housing so in hands of parcel people
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
put oil pump on nice new one and had to pull drive shaft to do it correctly, fitted new oil filter housing , and rebuild turbo fitted a chra middle part to it all back on fitted timing chain kit all timed up stuck oil in sump ready for tomorrow first start up ,,
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Great progress Mike! Looks like she’s coming back to life!!
they always take longer to put them back together and I wont rush them as things go wrong if I did, good point saved £500 on turbo by fitting a chra , will be a cracking car when its done , caught just in time before repeated low oil levels hurt it, I got all the sump on and like to leave the sealant for a day or two to go hard before first run helps to prevent oil leaks,, another bright side at least should not be needing to replace any of the hard parts to change in future ,, I put gearbox treatment in there as well will help keep gearbox nice and slippy , i did find the filler on gearbox was finger tight hence where gearbox oil was coming from , its gone back with fresh copper washer and some sealant as well ,,
 
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