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what method was used to check the timing,
common issues are chain stretched or vac pump pails pulling the exhaust cam to a stop and chain slip but that tends to bend valves when happens, another issue can be the oil control rings in first journals on camshafts engine running and hot open oil filler and f can see oil being sprayed across from them they are worn or snapped, believe to be a updated part from bmw now made of nylon same as oil control rings on pistons,
another common thing is bottom gear sprocket wears and feathers off until chain slips,
 

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when done done head gasket did you use new bolts for camshafts and crankshaft, was bottom sprocket and chain it replaced, if not how many miles has engine done
 

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all pretty vague then, normal practice is to fit timing chain kit includes and must do bottom sprocket and must do chain must do tensioner must use new stretch bolts on camshafts and crankshaft,, if old bolt were reused they will not hold the the free wheeling sprockets over time the heat will loosen them off and will move on the camshafts or crank and timing will jump. IF ITS MOVED IT WILL MOVE MORE AND BEND VALVES
below link full kit with vvt the stretch bolts are £3 for camshafts and £8 for crank direct from bmw and must be renewed every time undone
 

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if tensioner spring has gone weak would make timing move, if vanos sprocket failed would do the same if oil pressure was low could also do same trick as timing in dependant on oil pressure
 

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no a seal kit,,, when they fail its replace the whole sprocket, also if vac pump on other end of exhaust cam can also cause drag on the chain and cause a mismatch in timing at best and total destroy all valves at worst, as what would sort it hmmm its one of those things ie so much can cause it and so much needs to be replaced every 60,000 miles ie timing chain bottom sprockets tension and bolts, as a min around 120.000 miles both the vanos sprockets good to do also the oil solenoids that control them,
are you sure the fault codes are not old codes from before ie have they been cleared and the drive car see what comes back,, also mould lock at oil pressure test and compression test as well,, you could also buy autocom cdp plus off ebay and with that can live data scan it see the vanos positions and if they advance with revs as they should below pics shows a 1.4 2008 after new chain kit and running correctly,
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autocom will read nearly every car on the road its garage level and cheap as chips compared to the garage gear,
so would appear yours are 4 degrees a drift, the question i would have is that due to low oil pressure problem,, rarely have seen very drty ol or cheap oil filter cause issue with vanos timing ie anything that effects the oil pressure to the vanos will effect how they work ie its oil pressure that forces them to rotate to alter the cam to crank and cam to cam timing vie the ecu controlling it in split seconds depending on the load on of load off of the engine throttle as such.. so would be a good idea to start form a known good spot ie good oil and good filter, also there is no middle ground with the prince engines when it comes to timing chain as every thing depends on knowing this is correct,, put it this way every time i get one in front of me my first question to anyone when was timing chain done last if car has done over 60.000 miles then its a must do job before much else,, as a old chain will cause lean running and can cause rich running will cause 02 sensors and cat issue will cause pcv system plausibility faults and on most doing a complete kit and must include the bottom sprocket as these dont last past 60k as feather off the teeth and widen the teeth dips and you can rotate the crank within the dips and that will easy be 2-4 degrees of timing that moves around depending on throttle on or off, also the chain stretch and poor after market chain tensioners ie i always these days at least fit a genuine chain tensioner as they are so much better and longer,, ie latest spec N18 and B series bmw chain tensioners are the best and fit, £53 from oceam bmw plymouth, ocean also do latest chain set ie guides bottom sprocket and chain and bolts around £200,, truscots ie the thp engine is same engine as mini sometimes they are cheaper for some parts..
even compression tests can be altered my a engine with to much over lap from chain stretched etc.
 

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Did you ever find a fix for this ?
couple of people did was the camshaft worn out, on the oil control rings for vanos sprocket
 

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Ok so changing the rings could fix the problem or both shaft and rings?
depends on where its worn if camshaft surface then needs both rings and camshaft , so prob just best to replace the camshafts form the off rather than a redo if dont work if only try the rings as others have done to find most times its both, do need to do a oil pressure test on engine before anything else first as if low oil pressure its going to be other issues as well perhaps, ie if engine ever run low on oil could of caused damage to bearings and oil pump etc
 

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i cant tell form pics when rub finger nail over where the oil rings sit on that cap can you feel a ridge if so then got wear on that outer edges for sure and a sign of camshaft or and rings worn on inner edges if that makes sense, as you have 4bar oil pressure thats all good , would also suspect the oil solonoid that controls the vanos,, also if you put a 27mm spanner on the inlet camshaft can you rotate the camshaft freely from the vanos sprocket ie camshaft free wheeling if so then that vanos is faulty
 

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when i refit them end caps i use a light swear of wellseal on the surfaces to prevent any oil pressure being bled away where joins together
 

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I found the specs, now on the other side is the vacuum pump supposed to pump oil into the vanos? It pumps oil when spined clock wise looking at it from this side and there’s a orifice on the bottom of the pump bore that if I blow air thru it comes out on the other end of camshaft
vac pump dont pump any thing in to vanos sprockets its just vacum it has a oil fed bearings for its own lubrication when this bearings start to wear it will slow the exhaust camshaft down and cause the tensioner to bottom out and at that point jump teeth or snap and snap top guide off,
THE VANOS SPROCKETS ARE LABELLED IN FOR INLET AND EX FOR EXHAUST MUST NOT MIX THEM UP AS DIRECTIONAL AND SIDED ,
 

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yours has the old type metal rings some wear on journal but dont look to silly, think i would be changing them rings anyway
below pic is part numbers main dealers only,
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hi everyone I'm new to the site i am a 17 year Benz and BMW tech i had the same issue on my mini cooper 2010 1.6 non turbo i did the timing chain vanos gears intake and exhaust and vanos solenoids what it ended up being was a shock to me there is a non return valve under the vanos solenoid that controls oil pressure to the solenoid and to the vanos gear the spring in that non return valve fell out and was not holding pressure i got a new one for about 30 bucks put it in and my exhaust timing came right back and i was able to do a vanos adaptation and get rid of all the code car runs perfect now i hope this helps someone i have seen a lot of people looking for a fix to the codes 283D-2845
below pic its a non return valve prevents oil returning to the oil pump when not running can also lock up with crud and springs cans snap and catch them,,
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Yes exactly that's what ended up fixing mine with those codes.
theres so many things that throw same sort of fault codes on these engines almost like makers have done it to make repairing them as hard as they can to get around the they were forced to allow owners to be able to read codes ,, where they would like owners not to ,, so it seems they just link as much to one code and muddy the waters make it harder thats my theory
 
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