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Hey all, i am in need of help here. This is a 2008 Mini Cooper S Clubman. Vehicle was brought in for timing chain replacement, Vehicle was taking a long time to start "Long Crank" After completion of job started the car and ran great. I left my scanner in the car connected to the ODB which drained the Battery. When I wanted to jump start the Vehicle I mistakenly connected the wrong terminal, so + cabled from jump pack was on negative terminal and - cable from jump pack went to positive terminal on battery , I got spark then realized was wrong connection, I swapped and started the car , but the car started to run rough and the check engine light came on. I checked the fuses and found F07 fuse which was 7.5a burned , I looked for a fuse in the shop but couldn't find a 7.5 but was able to find a 15a fuse , I connected that fuse and the car was still running rough. I connected my scanner and found the following two codes

2D65 DME-High-Pressure Fuel Injector 3, High Side, Activation
2D67 DME-High-Pressure Fuel Injector 2, High Side, Activation

Then I looked at the Fuel injectors Value and found 1 and 4 was at 1.x but 2 and 3 were at Value 0 Zero

I am at a loss and need help. Any help is greatly appreciated it
 

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2008 Mini Cooper S hatchback,Automatic,Mello Yellow
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564 Posts
The timing chain was replaced perfectly and the car ran perfect afterward.
The only problem was the long start. That part is ordinary; if the high pressure fuel line was disconnected and re connected for any reason. About 4 presses of the start button. Was the car started and ran perfect more the once.
Before the battery connection issue?
This unit is capable of testing the car while running shutting off any one of the four injectors.
Foxwell NT530 BMW & Mini diagnostic scan tool feedback
At any rate I would put the flywheel pin back into the bell housing with the camshaft in the labeled up position and locked with the cam locks. I would re check to see if the timing held.
When I figured out how to time my R56. Now I know I don't get points for it. But had many of crank bolts and cam bolt.
I learned to mark my harmonic balancer after tightening up the crank bolt; just at the seam between the oil pan and lower engine block to see if the balancer and it associated components drifted during the start.
By the end after I did figure out how to time the car. Having removed the head and having it machined at the machine shop and just a stock rebuild. I pressed the start button four times to get the HPFP to start the engine after hooking the fuel line back up. THEN I pulled out all my new bolts and re-timed the car again. JUST BECAUSE OF THE ROUGH press the start button four times to get it running idea!
I learned to mark the crank bolt itself on one of the hexagon points of the crank bolt turning 180 degree's from that to hold the crank bolt, and not use a torque angle with my wrench or any other forearm distance method.
I learned to tighten each camshaft by torquing one then the other. alternating. Then using the torque angle tool to do 90 degree's on the intake camshaft bolt; then 90 on the exhaust camshaft bolt, then 90 degree's on the intake camshaft bolt Then 45 degree's on the exhaust camshaft bolt. All the while keeping in mind that someone is holding a 27mm wrench on the intake camshaft pulling toward them to bottom out the camshaft on the inside of the cam lock.
At that young of a stage in the process of having a car just timed. I would look back and make sure the timing is still holding. Then go from there. Because I timed my car a few times and that's how it happens at idle or even revving it up in park it sounds perfect and smooth. But you go drive that around and you can drive for an hour like I did one time.
Then I past a stop sign and up a hill and did the command with the throttle to give it power and hold the gear I was in.
At that point the timing slipped and wrecked the valves. It was a mess. There is forgiveness if the timing has drifted in your application. Meaning it is running just rough. It may just be a matter of squaring up the timing. And I would not worry about the valves at this point.
 
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