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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

I just bought an R56 that seemed to run great.

after an hour of moderate driving, lots of blue smoke, misfire, engine oil pressure warning.

I used a borescope to find piston 4 had melted.

I have sourced a 2008 engine with 41K on the clock, I really don't fancy having that fail.

I have various BMW software and cables, can someone guide me through flashing the ECU/DME back to stock?

Many Thanks

James
 

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hmm so the other 3 pistons were fine then i guess, if so would be looking at, 1 injector warn out, 2 exhaust valve leaking,, spark plug failure worth checking to see if tip burnt off common when coil fails or and spark plug worn out, also carbon build up on rear or valve inlet side restricts air then there is not enough air to burn with fuel and washes the crown of the piston,, i tell you this because you could spend all your time thinking its a poor remap from somewhere when the truth is something has failed caused a hot spot,, also at 40.000 miles on a mapped prince engine that has been driven hard will be by now running retarded due to timing chain stretching as they all do the harder they rev the more its wears out. i would not run it again until i knew what was causing it, if all 4 pistons show damage then chain most likely,, also mot time emissions has car seen any mot's since being mapped if so and pass on gas checks then chances are it got a fault not bad calibration
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
hmm so the other 3 pistons were fine then i guess, if so would be looking at, 1 injector warn out, 2 exhaust valve leaking,, spark plug failure worth checking to see if tip burnt off common when coil fails or and spark plug worn out, also carbon build up on rear or valve inlet side restricts air then there is not enough air to burn with fuel and washes the crown of the piston,, i tell you this because you could spend all your time thinking its a poor remap from somewhere when the truth is something has failed caused a hot spot,, also at 40.000 miles on a mapped prince engine that has been driven hard will be by now running retarded due to timing chain stretching as they all do the harder they rev the more its wears out. i would not run it again until i knew what was causing it, if all 4 pistons show damage then chain most likely,, also mot time emissions has car seen any mot's since being mapped if so and pass on gas checks then chances are it got a fault not bad calibration

Hi,

Thanks,

The original engine (on 108k) is the one with blown piston, this had a new timing chain kit fitted at 104k, I have the invoice to prove it etc.

The replacement engine is on 41k, I will check the wear with the timing chain tool, just to be sure. Will also be replacing crank shaft seals etc before fitting the engine.

I have a guy that can pull the map off the ECU and let me know if its stock, or a bad map. I don't know if its been mapped or not, I only just bought it.

The engine from the other car however (the 41k), i have checked the MOT history and it's got a glowing report.
 

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did you do a hpi on the replacement engine as well reason behind this is some breakers have low mileage registration numbers they use for all kinds of engines like for like i know its dodgy as, hpi you can check the engine numbers these cant easily be faked, i work for a mapping company and have never seen a the map as being the faulty part of it all when its melts 1 piston and to be honest anyone that has just spent 100k on all the gear you need to map a car with rollers as well etc just would not make mistakes like that, but what does happen is when car is very new car gets mapped and has it gets old it gets weaker or other faults nothing to do with a map ie file change etc,
i would not reuse your old injectors, or plugs or coil packs i would hope you got those with the 40k engine and was plug and play
 

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Hi,

Thanks,

The original engine (on 108k) is the one with blown piston, this had a new timing chain kit fitted at 104k, I have the invoice to prove it etc.

The replacement engine is on 41k, I will check the wear with the timing chain tool, just to be sure. Will also be replacing crank shaft seals etc before fitting the engine.

I have a guy that can pull the map off the ECU and let me know if its stock, or a bad map. I don't know if its been mapped or not, I only just bought it.

The engine from the other car however (the 41k), i have checked the MOT history and it's got a glowing report.
This happened last year to me as well.

I had timing kit, walnut blast decoked & auxiliary belt done.

I went back a few weeks later (as they didn't have time to fit me in) and they checked the work they've done and said it was OK.

I got the car back smoking out of the exhaust and no boost. The MINI specialist tried to say it was the turbo, but I knew the turbo was working when I took it in. Turns out they removed (intentional or not) the turbo hose underneath the car when I had a replacement turbo installed at another garage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hi,

Yes HPI checked.

Engine is complete with all ancillaries except cat.

DMF, Turbo, injectors, plugs, coils, alternator, ac pump, inlet, etc etc.

I'll be replacing the crank seals while the engine is out, probably a new thermostat housing and temp sender as I hear this has been updated.

Will check timing chain.
 

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honestly i know i bang on about them they really are the one thing on prince engines that must not be ignored if you have a spare £100 just sick a basic kit on it ie due to your engine 40.000 miles in another 20.000 miles you should be doing one anyway so much easier wit engine out,, ie new chain new bolts new oil seal and must do bottom sprocket then just enjoy the car,, like said before the melt down is a 99.9% due to a component failure on that cylinder, trouble is as well most ill informed garages or so called techs who dont know what the hell they are doing always pull the ITS BEEN MAPPED MUST BE THAT, all mapping is is turning up the little bit of power car makers leave in the ecu to meet emissions rules,, did you know that peugeot put same prince n18 engines in their RCZ and run 269bhp factory bhp and they run fine as long as timing chain and good services and some common sense , ie let warm up and let cool down for a start, very easy to blame something that most people dont understand,
 

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there is a bleed screw on thermostat housing, also one on the inlet pipe for heater matrix within under bonnet baulk head, on gen cars if they dont just bleed up buy un screwing these bleed points then chances are one or move coolant pipes are on wrong way around, common is top and bottom rad houses this allows a air pocket at coolant temp sensor tends to throw fan on,
 
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