[N12B14]

A long story short, my lovely daughter decides she needs to go to the supermarket in her mini and without checking her oil level.
6 miles in oil light comes on then off and them the car is bogging and wanting to stall, smelling hot and steaming white smoke from the bonnet.
I guessing it cooked it warping the head and causing other damage.
Following day after its recovery I put oil and water in, the water drained from the rear in record time.
But it turned over, so not seized.
Is the engine worth stripping and skimming the head or has she melted internals like bearings journals , I have the laser timing tools, compression and leak down testers.
Or do I buy a replacement prince 1.4 lump swapping what bits I need.

 

[mike1967]

no would no waste money on any engine that has gone like that, best off finding low mileage engine bare in mind Citroen and Peugeot cars run same engine and are cheaper to find, just change all the electronics etc,

 

[N12B14]

 

[N12B14]

Well I removed the rocker cover and it was melted.
The plug holes were filled up with oil.
Interestingly the cam lobes are not scored and the chain mech hasn't sustained much if any damage.
This wasn't a let's see if I can rebuild.
I'd be more concerned re the bores and bearings.
Heads can be skimmed and reused that's easy but to checked for bearing damage that's a strip down and I'd be best to install a good used lump.

Next up will be get an engine crane on order, look out for a decent lump, grab a timing chain kit, clutch kit and crankcase seal if it's the same as the R53 and prone to leaks.

 

[mike1967]

its knackered bud dont even try rebuilding that the piston rings will be damaged , looking at timing chain top sprocket the teeth look worn one side ie worn out, i would never try and rebuild a cooked engine to that degree ie melting the rocker cover thats so hot

 

[N12B14]

Replacement engine sourced and on it's way.
It need a new clutch, oil seal and timing kit.
Any good guides for the removal process

 

[mike1967]

search it on utube loads of how to, one guy on there calls himself as mini adventure he's on the ball, get stuck just ask the questions on here i'll point you in right direction with it, FAI do a good kit for timing chain and you will need a locking kit, locking kits are a mine filed some very good some very bad, laser tools do a good one, also draper also do a good one as well. as for clutch there is a company called calder clutches they do refurb ones and are better than OE link below for them worth asking them, i know they do honda stuff would think also do mini psa as well,

Calders Web Site Home Page

Remanufaturer, supplyer of new clutch, clutches, clutch covers, clutch plates, release bearing, concentric slave cylinder, csc,

www.calderclutch.co.uk

 

[N12B14]

Yes I have the laser timing kit and Ebay.
Ebay for the tension bung thing.
But the ebay Amazon cheap timing locking tools knocks out the timing by a few degrees,throwing codes.
Laser spot on everytime.

Looked on YouTube and some not many.
I'll grab my Bentley manual too.
Clutch link, thanks

 

[mike1967]

laser or draper are both the best kits for money would never use the cheap ones off ebay except for one other its on blue case and is around £70

 

[N12B14]

Crane, Engine and Clutch has arrived.
Collecting the timing kit, service kit and gearbox and engine oil with plugs and gaskets and water pump and aux belt.

What else is a good idea to swap out with the engine out.

 

[N12B14]

Mike1967
Clutch is from caulder £35 and valeo reman branded.
I'm happy with that.
But don't know what tool size I'd need just yet

 

[Scudder]

I would do these seals - rear crank hub (requires new flywheel bolts), input shaft, drive shaft x 2. Would also do the front lower rear wishbone bushes when subframe is out (powerflex means never doing again) and the anti roll bar bushes, these are inaccessible with subframe mounted. When you say tool size, you may mean centering tool for clutch? I used a dowel with masking tape wrapped to correct size Works a treat and cheap.

 

[N12B14]

Cool, it's up on the crane and I've removed the rocker cover and clutch assembly (Barely worn but will be replaced anyway.)
Looks like its had a timing kit replaced and again that will be changed.
Seals will be put on order Monday.
I suppose a clean up of the banks valves will need to be done too.
It's so much easier to work on out of the car.

 

[mike1967]

i would give the flywheel and rub over with some 60 grit sand paper looks like ts had a beating from pics clean it uo see if have any cracks on it if so new flywheel , dont for get to put a slight grease coating on the thrust bearing input sleeve on gearbox and the spigot hole in flywheel no to much so it can contaminate any think, also if running the old type thermostat housing fit the latest updated on including a new link pipe from water pump i would also if mine do water pump as well,, the old type housing crack and they also run hotter than new ones this can effect engine oil thin it down more ie oil is tested to 100c prince engines run at 109c old spec i believe the new spec housing is 105c, link below on ebay this seller specialises in bmw mini and saab parts very good stuff never silly money, they also do some very good deals on timing chains as well

Genuine Thermostat & Housing with Adapter Lead Mini N12 N14 N16 1.4 1.6 Petrol | eBay

NEW Thermostat & Housing suitable for the following: Mini R55 Clubman - all Petrol One & Cooper, Cooper S upto 2010 & JCW upto 2012 Mini R56 Hatch - all Petrol One & Cooper, Cooper S upto 2010 & JCW upto 2012 Mini R57 Convertible - all Petrol Cooper, Cooper S upto 2010 & JCW upto 2012 Mini R58...

www.ebay.co.uk

also i would drop the sump clean it all out as well also check the sump has no dents in it,, i know of a guy who fitted one from a breakers and it starved of oil and went bang after fitting it,, turned out the sump was dented and had pushed up in to the oil strainer restricting the flow,, i have got in to the habit these days to stick some Plasticine on bottom of sump to check it clears correctly if reusing the sump best to make sure

 

[N12B14]

Most of the strip done.
Damm good job I had my makita impact that crank bolt took ages must've been locktited in.
Yes sump will be dropped, vanos valves will be removed and cleaned up.
Loads to do, then engine cleaned and built up
The things we do for our kids

 

[mike1967]

i got the dewalt ZR impact gun with 5.0 batteries i use the hell out of it so good its only got 3 outcomes, strip it snap it remove it, even 44m wheel bearing nuts that have been on a truck for 20 years and 3ft breaker bar and full weight wont move, this thing just takes them off lol, can remember the days of suffering with removing bolts lol,

 

[mike1967]

chain looks well used would deffo be doing that the guides are very brown start off white, the vanos solenoids look to be leaking a tad, and the vac pump rubber seal on the other end,, could try some well seal its a thin sealant wont effect anything badly also always remove the solenoid valves to clean the gauze's

 

[N12B14]

Dropped the sump and found this dowel pin in the bottom of it.
When I find my verniers I will measure it properly.
I've had a good look round to see if it's a locating pin.

 

[N12B14]

It's a 17x8 pin like the ones used on the engine block mounting dowel 11117525892
Question is how the hell did it end up there.

 

[mike1967]

yep that one of the head locating dowels so your head has been off at some point must of fell down between the timing chain and oil pump as such,