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, blow out black smoke out of the exhaust.update to the head bolts was a picking order so sent totally wrong bolts from god knows what engine give them their due have next day'd me the right ones and a postage slip to return wrong ones so hopefully by end of week will be all back together and mapped as well ie rolling road runs will put up the results for others, or if interested in engine work or maps etc in my signature for contact, just completed a r53 for a guy and got 233bhp at front wheels with a fast road cam and some other stuff ie top engine rebuild and t chain etc
so today put the head on torqued it down ie 40nm plus 90 plus 90 degrees in pics below you will notice blue dots ie thread lock ie leave a dot every time i add 90 degrees to that bolt so buy the end of the job there will be 2 blue dots for each bolts and then i know for sure each bolt has had 180 degrees of stretch i promise you not doing that one day will catch you out ie over stretch or under stretch a bolts etc,,
also in pics shows dipstick little tip blob sealer on the o-ring before installing it, also blob sealer on the rocker cover surface in corners water pump end
then i fitted timing chain kit pics of all new genuine bolts from bmw they were cheap £3.00 each for cam bolts and bottom one was £6 the new oil seal was £25 genuine one all bolts lightly oil and fitted, bottom crank bolt 40nm plus 120 degrees,, the cam bolts inlet 20nm plus 180 degrees and the exhaust cam 20nm plus 120 degress, i set timing on this the first time ie after setting it rotated engines 4 times relocked and locks fell in to place perfect,,, i also put pics up below of timing chain guides and how to slot together the centre pivot very important this is done correctly that the pivot side view looks like the one in the pics,, so all timed up sump back on have then filled with engine oil and without the plugs in cranked the engine over about 10 times ie finger on start button until it cuts off repeat this until oil gets up to the turbo and camshafts before starting it as with new bearings on crankshaft and pistons etc you need oil to be there before running it, tomorrow will finish it off them map it and delete the cat form software job done ho yes and run it it in for a few hundred miles before dropping a big power map on it ,, would think 230 to 260 bhp maybe
also in pics shows dipstick little tip blob sealer on the o-ring before installing it, also blob sealer on the rocker cover surface in corners water pump end
then i fitted timing chain kit pics of all new genuine bolts from bmw they were cheap £3.00 each for cam bolts and bottom one was £6 the new oil seal was £25 genuine one all bolts lightly oil and fitted, bottom crank bolt 40nm plus 120 degrees,, the cam bolts inlet 20nm plus 180 degrees and the exhaust cam 20nm plus 120 degress, i set timing on this the first time ie after setting it rotated engines 4 times relocked and locks fell in to place perfect,,, i also put pics up below of timing chain guides and how to slot together the centre pivot very important this is done correctly that the pivot side view looks like the one in the pics,, so all timed up sump back on have then filled with engine oil and without the plugs in cranked the engine over about 10 times ie finger on start button until it cuts off repeat this until oil gets up to the turbo and camshafts before starting it as with new bearings on crankshaft and pistons etc you need oil to be there before running it, tomorrow will finish it off them map it and delete the cat form software job done ho yes and run it it in for a few hundred miles before dropping a big power map on it ,, would think 230 to 260 bhp maybe
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so today got turbo pipe fitted it and before sticking front all back on ran the car up, ie started first time once fuel primed and the normal smokey as had so much oil in the exhaust and used a lot in the rebuilding of engine this cleared in 10 minutes or so, i then just let it idle for well over hour and half while diagnostics is plugged in and live data running like to know whats going on from the off just in case something is wrong , i also on first start up have the oil filler cap off and check oil is coming to top of engine and it is i also cracked off the water top pipe to turbo let any air out, i also unscrew the bleed plastic screw on top of the thermostat housing let any air out of there as well, then just let it build heat while watching the temps on live data, i also watch the smooth running and cylinder misfire options for all 4 cylinders as you can see on below pics all are the same and all perfect, also it shows the injectors duty's number 1 is slightly worn but will prob clean up with can of seafoam in fuel tank and some good runs,, also i check as the pic below shown vanos actual and prescribed positions and you can see are perfect think 21 degrees matched or within 1 degree is perfect to be honest. ha ha not bad when it took me 15 minutes to set chain up etc and cheated never used the dummy tensioner lent my kit to a mate and he cant find at mo,,, so there you go its poss to set them up without it just need to do the bottom crank bolt up first and also do the stretch part at same time then time the engine from the camshaft sprockets with spring tensioner fully in, ie set at 20nm rotate 4 times then re-lock if locks drop on then its fine, also must hold both cam shafts with a 27mm spanner and must not let turn when stretching the bolts,
also done a compression test on hot got 190psi on all 4 the same after a hour running so would say rings went well there no crankcase pressure either and not chuffing from the oil filler,, also put my ear to sump and sounds perfect no rattles etc,,, still have a few cam lifters slight tapping but as the hour went by got nearly silent now as the oil gets thin with heat and pushes them out etc, one thing have noticed got a high pressure fuel pump fault code came up after first 20 minutes but when cleared not came back but time will tell if there is further issues, all water pipes are fairly soft when car is at 90c and both rad pipes were nice and hot etc, when switched off could hear the turbo aux coolant pump working i checked it was pumping by loosen off top coolant union on turbo and water sprayed out so, so far all looks on track,, all left to do now is put front back on it and test drive etc them map it and delete software decat,
when i was rebuilding it i got new piston ring set same rings used in later n18 and b series bmw car ie latest spec piston rings, these are black sprung steal compression rings and very odd looking oil control rings that are plastic carbon stuff where the old rings were steal very thin metal rings in 3 pieces the new oil ring is one piece with a spring around it as such,, glad never honed the bores ie used scotchbrite just to de=glaze on hone tool as would think if bore were to course it would wear them away in no time..
also done a compression test on hot got 190psi on all 4 the same after a hour running so would say rings went well there no crankcase pressure either and not chuffing from the oil filler,, also put my ear to sump and sounds perfect no rattles etc,,, still have a few cam lifters slight tapping but as the hour went by got nearly silent now as the oil gets thin with heat and pushes them out etc, one thing have noticed got a high pressure fuel pump fault code came up after first 20 minutes but when cleared not came back but time will tell if there is further issues, all water pipes are fairly soft when car is at 90c and both rad pipes were nice and hot etc, when switched off could hear the turbo aux coolant pump working i checked it was pumping by loosen off top coolant union on turbo and water sprayed out so, so far all looks on track,, all left to do now is put front back on it and test drive etc them map it and delete software decat,
when i was rebuilding it i got new piston ring set same rings used in later n18 and b series bmw car ie latest spec piston rings, these are black sprung steal compression rings and very odd looking oil control rings that are plastic carbon stuff where the old rings were steal very thin metal rings in 3 pieces the new oil ring is one piece with a spring around it as such,, glad never honed the bores ie used scotchbrite just to de=glaze on hone tool as would think if bore were to course it would wear them away in no time..
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i know i do try and learn my lessons lol, i even try'd to use the old oil feed pipe for turbo i never moved it or anything put cat back on and heat shields etc and it leaked, ordered a bmw one £54 lighter but at least with how in bits this car has been it fired up and so far runs perfect no nasty noises etc and live data is all reading good, but i suspect its got a high pressure fuel pump fault maybe need to look in to that tomorrow just my luck to need one i bet, or might be the low pressure feed pump in sender unit in the fuel tank might be getting worn out, not that good for a 60.000 miles car if it is
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